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8 hours ago, lo-fi said:

Even after warming up? 

Yes, idle speed had fallen away.. Very odd... 

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On 9/4/2019 at 10:58 PM, lo-fi said:

Even after warming up? 

Took it out and ran it to get it up to temp then went through setting up the carb as if it was brand new, then took timing back a little. Running now, starts by throwing out a nice puff of white smoke. Then idles okay, still. Think it's not 100% but when is a series 100% haha 

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So as I'm working at home today, lunch time came and I thought I'd drop off the front bumper.. Think again, two images below, one of the drivers side bolts nice and visible.. Pas side.... 

DSC-0210.jpg
DSC-0211.jpg

  • Confused 1

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Get a sharp cold chisel on those nuts, crack them in two. Series dumb irons a such a stupid piece of design. 

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Where are the bolts/nuts on the passenger side ? Surely someone hasn't welded a plate over the spring front mount plates covering them ?

cheers

Steve b

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Oh wait. I see what that second pic is now. Holy pigeon-poop, batman! That's horrific. And in about the most inaccessible place too. 

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2 hours ago, steve b said:

Where are the bolts/nuts on the passenger side ? Surely someone hasn't welded a plate over the spring front mount plates covering them ?

cheers

Steve b

It's been filled with weld!!! Not a plate but just a blob of metal been melted in, arrrggghhhhhhh 

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2 hours ago, lo-fi said:

Oh wait. I see what that second pic is now. Holy pigeon-poop, batman! That's horrific. And in about the most inaccessible place too. 

Yeah that is just what it is a pile of pigeon poop!!! In the form of a lump of metal.. 😢

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Ah I can see the bolts now , what a completely stupid thing to do  . Do you know any fabricators/mechanics/agri engineers that could remove that ? Gas axe/plasma cutter or 9" grinder come to mind . Very likely the front spring mount plates will end up getting notched too but not hard to put back .

There looks to be some welding required on the driver side too ?  

Is the bumper lower plate welded to the dumb iron too ? sort of looks like it .

Steve b

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36 minutes ago, steve b said:

Ah I can see the bolts now , what a completely stupid thing to do  . Do you know any fabricators/mechanics/agri engineers that could remove that ? Gas axe/plasma cutter or 9" grinder come to mind . Very likely the front spring mount plates will end up getting notched too but not hard to put back .

There looks to be some welding required on the driver side too ?  

Is the bumper lower plate welded to the dumb iron too ? sort of looks like it .

Steve b

Going to have to ask around. What a complete nightmare and bodge of a job by someone previous to me owning the vehicle.. 

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I do feel for you , some "owners" really don't get it at all . It seems this trucks luck is changing , I'm sure I'm not the only one that can see your drive .

Steve b

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The spring hangers are available (I have some on the shelf), so not to worry if you end up hacking it off with the grinder and going through them. 

Where are you based? 

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7 hours ago, lo-fi said:

The spring hangers are available (I have some on the shelf), so not to worry if you end up hacking it off with the grinder and going through them. 

Where are you based? 

I'm in the south west. Somerset 

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Would anyone looking at the photos of these hangers thi k the whole chassis needs replacing? Another forum I am on has a motoring section and one user has said that the chassis is shot and I should buy new. I've not had a chance to look at the whole thing but other areas are solid.. 

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You can't call a whole chassis shot just because of one bad repair... The individual in question is an idiot (the same kind of idiot that would make a "repair" like that) and worth no further time.

If in doubt, get under with a small hammer, and go round everywhere tapping gently. If it rings, you're good. If it thuds crustily and holes appear, you'll soon see. If it's passed an MOT recently, it really can't be too bad!

I'm not too far away (Berkshire). You're welcome to drop by for a brew and a chat if you don't mind a bit of a trip or you're passing. I don't tend to head down that way often, sadly. 

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2 hours ago, lo-fi said:

You can't call a whole chassis shot just because of one bad repair... The individual in question is an idiot (the same kind of idiot that would make a "repair" like that) and worth no further time.

If in doubt, get under with a small hammer, and go round everywhere tapping gently. If it rings, you're good. If it thuds crustily and holes appear, you'll soon see. If it's passed an MOT recently, it really can't be too bad!

I'm not too far away (Berkshire). You're welcome to drop by for a brew and a chat if you don't mind a bit of a trip or you're passing. I don't tend to head down that way often, sadly. 

I've been under it as the oil is self lubricating the chassis. There is a hole in the front fuel tank out rigger, but everything else seems solid, but definitely need to do a proper check all round. most areas are still red paint. So not come through that if rusted 

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Take a look at my lightweight restoration thread. That will show you a rotten chassis for comparison.

And what can be done to repair a rotten chassis.

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Chassis have to be unbelievably bad before they actually nead replacing, we have a 59, 58,55, 51 years all on original well but properly repaired chassis and a 49 in the process of being repaired.

I recently had a problem with an awkward to get to nut that was well rusted, the rounded end of my powerfile and lots of patience allowed me to wear away part of the nut and the biolt so that they could be removed.

Peter

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So the second image, I got a hammer and chisel to it to see if it was just rust. It's solid, and mean I didn't even make an impression on it. Solid metal lump. Who does that!!!!! 

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Omg my truck needs a slap. Started up this evening beautiful, got to the farm turned off, did a few bits in yard, loaded the tub and started again, idle was awful, charge light on dash fading in and out, but drove lovely, stopped to open a gate, idle por then cut out, started it up idle poop shut gate it cut out.. Then each Time I started up again it was poor idle. I have recently changed coil a D ht leads. Could I just have bad leads / coil. I've got battery out and going to give it a good charge incase its low. 

Just seem to go forward then back more currently

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The coil should be marked on the 12v side + or sw  (to live supply) and - or cb (to distributor).

I'm naturally inclined to wariness with new "classic electrical" stuff just because .. chuck the old coil on and try it again in similar circumstances .

I'm still not convinced that the float needle valve in the carb. is working properly all the time , did it chug and smoke before cutting out ?

Steve b   

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Have you been through all the earthing points, removed, cleaned and checked? Particularly the engine/gearbox to chassis strap. Sounds as if the starter current is arcing through a bad connection and causing it to get oxidised, which then affects all sorts of other things (like the coil). It would explain the intermittent nature of the problem and why it'll run fine, then all go south after restart. 

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7 hours ago, steve b said:

The coil should be marked on the 12v side + or sw  (to live supply) and - or cb (to distributor).

I'm naturally inclined to wariness with new "classic electrical" stuff just because .. chuck the old coil on and try it again in similar circumstances .

I'm still not convinced that the float needle valve in the carb. is working properly all the time , did it chug and smoke before cutting out ?

Steve b   

It Could be the carb as I did overhaul it, but Sunday it drove fine everytime I started it up. And yes it splutters when at idle when it's doing what I described above. 

28 minutes ago, lo-fi said:

Have you been through all the earthing points, removed, cleaned and checked? Particularly the engine/gearbox to chassis strap. Sounds as if the starter current is arcing through a bad connection and causing it to get oxidised, which then affects all sorts of other things (like the coil). It would explain the intermittent nature of the problem and why it'll run fine, then all go south after restart. 

I will have to check all earth straps then. Not done so yet. 

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It's a wise move either way, bad earth's can create all sorts of gremlins. Get the contact areas all nice and clean with whatever abrasives you've got to hand and reassemble with vaseline or copper grease if you've not got any special electrical schmoo. There's an important earth connection on the bulkhead somewhere near the steering box too, it'll be a ring terminal with a few black wires running into it. 

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