Sabre Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I am busy overhauling my 300TDi engine, and have fastened the block to an engine stand. The 4 fastening points (at the flywheel side of the block) are 10mm threaded bar. All 4 screwed in at least half-an-inch. Would those 4 points be sufficient to carry a fully assembled engine ? With the block hanging from the stand, those 4 x 10mm studs look rather thin to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 It should hold it but if it’s like my stand you’ll need to prop the front as I found out with my 200tdi , and there’s no way you’ll turn it unless you’ve got a big posh industrial job . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I bought some M10 threaded rod & big washers & M10 nuts & used them to secure my 200Tdi block to the borrowed engine stand. photo's below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 2 hours ago, ianmayco68 said: It should hold it but if it’s like my stand you’ll need to prop the front as I found out with my 200tdi , and there’s no way you’ll turn it unless you’ve got a big posh industrial job . I am looking at a front support. However, I am concerned about turning a fully assembled engine when the support is removed. I greased the pivot point and manages to turn the engine block around fairly easily with the handle that came with the stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: I bought some M10 threaded rod & big washers & M10 nuts & used them to secure my 200Tdi block to the borrowed engine stand. photo's below. Exactly the way I fastened my engine block. I am happy to see your engine still on the stand with the crank and pistons in place 😉 I also have the same type of stand; pity one can't assemble the clutch with the engine mounted on the stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Yes that would be better, I built up the block then rotated it to fit ladder frame, oil pump & sump, then lowered it on to the floor to refit the backplate & clutch. I refitted the head once block was back in chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Thanks Western. BTW, that block of yours looks stunning ! I hope you can keep it that clean, but, being a Landy ........... 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 It got sprayed with VHT gold paint, its keeping clean OK so far, did my rebuild nearly a year ago, done 364 running hours since refitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 12 hours ago, Sabre said: I am looking at a front support. However, I am concerned about turning a fully assembled engine when the support is removed. I greased the pivot point and manages to turn the engine block around fairly easily with the handle that came with the stand The engine stand I used for my 19J (has an iron head so is heavier than a Tdi) did flex but I think they are designed to. I would not contemplate turing the engine with the head on as it might whip round and hurt you, plus it would be a bugger of a job to turn it back upright. Once the head was off it was fine to turn on the stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 Impressive, Monkey ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 I've got a couple, one a Clarke and the other from SGS engineering, they will both hold fully assembled engines using the same methods as described. At the moment my td5 complete engine is on the SGS one...and yes rotating it is not easy on the stand as they are top heavy...so once it's going it could do some damage. Add that to the height from pivot may mean they won't go 180°. The td5 won't go all the way around and it's very heavy to get upright again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 Looking at the pics, they all seem to have the pivot point at the crank centre, if the pivot point was nearer the centre of gravity (higher up) they would be much more balanced and more stable and less likely to flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 The one I used looked very much like it was designed to flex as the pivot was not horizonal until it had the weight of the engine applied to it. In terms of height, they hold the engine at a nice height to work on. When rebuilding, work on the bottom half first to get the crank etc sorted, turn it 90' and slide the pistons in then turn a further 90' and work on the top end. Once the head is on there should be no need to turn the engine 180'...... unless you have dropped a nut or screw inside the engine 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 My other merc lump is on the stand at the moment. Can't remember if it's on with bolts or studding but it's on there and not going anywhere. It's just got a bit of spring in the stand . Turning it back upright needs a friend though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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