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Starter motor screws seized


neilc

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I thought getting the starter off would be the most difficult part.... It wasn't . The starter came off easily , the external working look excellent , it's all clean and moving freely , when I attach it to the battery directly and earth it , it maybe kicks in 1:5 attempts , I'm trying to get the bloody screws out and they are getting distorted , I've heated Them up , used wd40 , hit them with a hammer , used a wire brush , any other ideas? ,  thanks .

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That looks quite crispy! They're likely caught up in alloy corrosion in the end housings. Freeing that up is going to be quite the struggle and probably destructive, but a few things to try:

You're unlikely to get the torque required with a flat head screwdriver, so grab the bolt heads with a good pair of vise grips and rock back and forth. You don't want to just wrench them counter clockwise, you want to work either direction to start moving the penetrant oil into the corrosion. 

If you really can't get them moving, you'll have to cut the bolt heads off and possibly partially drill them out. 

Don't go too crazy with heat or you'll burn up the brush holder inside, but try warming the alloy housing where the bolts go through. 

At least with this kind of job you've got nothing to lose and will probably learn something in the process. Good luck :)

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Will a impact screwdriver help ?, I did wonder if I could use a Dremel to cut the screws so they had 2 flat sides and then try a spanner . Can you buy new screws from anywhere , I have zero money to buy a new starter so if it comes to it I'm going to  have to cut the heads off and then try to get into it to have a look and see if I can somehow work threads out , the irony of me having a Land Rover to combat winter is in the 5 years I've owned it , it's alway out of action in winter!

Edited by neilc
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The screws go all the way through the case to the drive end plate so you may find heating the end where the screws thread into . Has the power stud come loose and rotated ?

This type of starter does suffer from that and also wear to the face the brushes contact . A simple job for your local auto-electric indie .

cheers

Steve b  

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Impact driver worth a go if you have one. New fasteners will be easy enough to get from a local bolt supplier, or somewhere like Namrick online but you'll have to figure out what thread. Easier if you have a local place and can take one in to. 

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I've just got into the bloody thing using various methods , the screws are ruined but I've found a place that sells them for £11.50 for the pair , it just seems full of carbon inside , the brushes seem good however 2 seem shorter than the other , I think for about £20 I could give it a go , what do you think ? New brushes , new screws , clean up .

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Edited by neilc
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Blow out armature and case with an airline. Degrease the bendix/spigot gear with suitable solvent. Allow to dry. DO NOT LUBRICATE.

You can get new brush sets for under a tenner. In your picture, at 1 o'clock, is the brass stud for 1 set - the new ones come all attached to a new stud so you just swap them over. The other set attach to the winding at 7 o'clock. You will need a 100W soldering iron to remove the old ones and solder in the new.

Or, if you have decent auto electrician near you, take the body to them and they will do it for you. Doubt if the cost will be more than £30 parts and labour. Add a few drops of oil to the top and bottom bearing bushes on reassembly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all , This afternoon I attempted to put the starter back in , any advice on how to do this ? Ive got it more or less into position but now it won't go flush into the casing , is it just a case of having a bit of patience or is there a knack to it ?

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