Jump to content

2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

Recommended Posts

How focused is a crank sensor "field of view"?

If I stuck a trigger wheel on the back of this flywheel, would the sensor be distracted by the ring gear?

Just asking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I'll see if I can put a trigger wheel on the back of this flywheel.  If I can get it to fit, then it would give me cam and crank, if I ever go fancy MPI.

Once I've the engine built I'll see if I've got clearance.

How thin are these sensors? 5mm, 10mm? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I was hoping to just use the inspection holder in the flywheel housing, I think that's not going to work.  I'll look again when I get the engine assembled. 

I'm picking up the head tomorrow, it's been cleaned and the valves set up.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Total topic change. 

How fast do lambda sensors react? If the mixture is too rich, will the sensor know instantly? Assuming the ECU knows what it is doing, of course.

Just curious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

How fast do lambda sensors react? If the mixture is too rich, will the sensor know instantly? Assuming the ECU knows what it is doing, of course.

Pretty damn quick - basically the delay is the time taken for the exhaust to get from the cylinder, along the pipe to hit the sensor.

The caveat is that the sensors are relatively easily damaged or "blinded" by knocks or contamination - if you run rich enough, the sensor ends up coated in unburnt fuel and registers nothing (low volts) which looks "lean". Likewise burning oil or coolant. Physical impact can crack the element, and splashing through puddles / wading can cool it down below the operating temperature.

Once you've got the thing running, reduce the lambda sensor's authority to +/-5% or so, just enough for it to achieve fine-tuning on cruise without letting it tweak the whole lot off into the weeds if the sensor fails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there's space for the trigger on the flywheel. If so, I'll do that.

The crank and flywheel housing are in a set position, with the crank protruding by about 5mm above the seal flange.

IMG_20200215_110136.thumb.jpg.0ab8c967ccc15d2a5ed91bd779abb2f9.jpg

Mirroring this to the flywheeli think I've 8 to 10mm between the flywheel and the housing.

IMG_20200215_110727.thumb.jpg.f55dcaa3074e1c4c1fc7c2278d911a1b.jpg

Which is plenty.

 

IMG_20200215_110747.thumb.jpg.0066671b33034e6ae090307838c663aa.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The housing will have to be drilled for the sensor, I think I'll put it near the old timing indicator location. I can use the existing bung to locate the sensor mount.

IMG_20200215_111433.thumb.jpg.49e6a8b1f36c911505802a379aa130ae.jpg

The flywheel is all clean now. I've a cold, so am only cleaning and thinking, to avoid messing stuff up!

IMG_20200215_124413.thumb.jpg.7e892644659717b46f398fe8af3969a6.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enjoying this thread 👍

No harm in painting the housing even though you don’t really see too much of it but it shows the MOT man that you care and pay attention to detail 😉

I’m no expert on painting but I’d imagine an etch primer of some sort would be enquired first as it’s cast ali?

It’s great when the shiny bits start to arrive and you can look towards reassembly again. Looking forward to more progress.

Do you have a final spec in mind for this engine? Will it be mapped fuel and ignition and if so will you use a MS or something else? 

What sort of power and torque would you be expecting to see at the end? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Final spec? Ahhhhhh, sort of. Single point injection, probably, with a series manifold.

Exhaust is ACR system throughout, with ACR cam. I think it's an ACR stage 2 head, not 100% on that, it's at least 20 years old so Roland at ACR isn't certain, but the number matches his records.

As to the ECU I'm between microsquirt and speedaudrino, probably microsquirt, as it's a more mature platform, and might be more robust.

I've a friend who is adamant that a SU carb is better, but I want to play with injection, so I'm sticking with that.

Power? No idea? 90+hp? Torque? 150 lb ft?

As long as it can push the RRC diffs, and 7.50 tyres, I'm happy. I like spritely performance, and torque, so am focusing on grunt.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

If you want to keep it looking nicer for longer, anodising it would be good if you’ve got somewhere near that does it. 

I think I'll give it a coat of etch, then it will be duck egg blue with the rest of the power plant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy