Rear door handle Rain Shedder - Advice needed.

[PolarBlair]

More fail but I think I know why. Pillowing caused by infill density too low and not enough top layers. Going to up infill to 75% cubic subdivision and 6 top and bottom layers for final version.

 

[PolarBlair]

O-ring channel looks perfect and magnets are a snug fit. Printing lid now.

Will do test fit first then reprint base once I'm sure.

[reb78]

Was thinking about this earlier. You could make little tabs that clip into the recess so that you arent relying soley on sealant to hold the panel on.

[PolarBlair]

6 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Was thinking about this earlier. You could make little tabs that clip into the recess so that you arent relying soley on sealant to hold the panel on.

Good point. I'll need to remeasure the opening to make sure it fits. It's ok now but not good enough for retention clips.

Think it would have to be a separate part as the base sits flat on the bed. Like to avoid print supports wherever possible.

To be honest I'm more worried about using an adhesive that bonds too permanently. Probably avoid tiger seal.

[PolarBlair]

Sooooo, 85% infill may be overkill even if there wasn't much difference between that and 65% 

As long as I haven't screwed up an need to print it again, it should at least be very solid.

 

Realising now too that in colder months, it may need cracking loose if it freezes in place. 🥶

 

De-icer shouldn't affect it (especially not when painted) and the thicker it is, the less likely it is to warp with hot water. But probably going to avoid heat near it altogether.

 

It's also looking a bit thicker in real life than expected. Oh well, I'm committed now. May have to space the spare a little to give clearance.

Edited December 9, 2021 by PolarBlair

[PolarBlair]

Looking good. No bubbling so far. Going to to solid AF.

[PolarBlair]

Fitment tight enough not to need to worry about magnets. May well design a bit more slack into the rails.

Reduced the thickness too. Could shave another 3mm off but would need to reprint the same part again - too much wasted filament.

Will have the detail for the lid in 10hrs

[Mossberg]

Looking good.

Just a thought on the fit of the sliding arrangement, a bit of slack may be required if the two parts expand at different rates. As one is fixed to the door skin and the other possibly in direct sunlight the two may differ. I would think the outer piece would expand more so I would expect you would be OK, but it may be prudent not to fix it permanently to your door skin until you have had a  years worth of testing so you know how it reacts in different conditions. 

Enjoying the thread!

M

[Maverik]

Got to say my rear door handle area is looking pretty rubbish due to corrosion and sitting water, I'd welcome something like this, watching with interest - I'd be happy to do some testing for you if needed!  

[PolarBlair]

4 hours ago, Maverik said:

Got to say my rear door handle area is looking pretty rubbish due to corrosion and sitting water, I'd welcome something like this, watching with interest - I'd be happy to do some testing for you if needed!  

I may very well end up with two sets of parts if someone is interested in them. Still need to check for clearance with the spare though.

7 hours ago, Mossberg said:

Looking good.

Just a thought on the fit of the sliding arrangement, a bit of slack may be required if the two parts expand at different rates. As one is fixed to the door skin and the other possibly in direct sunlight the two may differ. I would think the outer piece would expand more so I would expect you would be OK, but it may be prudent not to fix it permanently to your door skin until you have had a  years worth of testing so you know how it reacts in different conditions. 

Enjoying the thread!

M

I was thinking the same so will probably avoid tiger seal or CT1 for the first fitment and go with something less permanent.

Gutter sealant would probably do the trick?

[PolarBlair]

Top half of the lid finished this morning. Added holes for countersunk stainless steel M4 bolts. PLA is soft enough for them to self tap and means I'm not just relying on a glue bond when sliding the lid.

It's always hard to see how much detail will be preserved. The letters could definitely afford to be shallower.

Would 'DEFENDER' in place of 'NOMAD' and the 'TD5' or 'Landrover' logo in place of the polarbear be more to others tastes?

[hurbie]

i would go for "defender" on the side , and leave the polar bear as your own brand/mark .

[PolarBlair]

Back to square 1. Until I sort the handle recess, water will continue to make the Isopon P38 filler absorb water and expand causing bumps on the outside.

Resealed the spare carrier and the window with tiger seal before rain arrived.

Window seal was completely perished.

Plugged the bottom holes that hold the inside panel and soaked the inside of the ribs with RC900. I'll leave it as is until I get the handle cover finished and mounted.

Managed to fill and prime which in retrospect was probably a bit pointles.

Hopefully the RC900 on the inside will prevent water bleeding into the filler this time.

The metal is already so thin in places I may just resort to a chequer plate skin on the outside.

[PolarBlair]

Defender Logo-Model.pdf

Seems to be some inconcistencies between logos. That being said, I'm not sure how reliable the image sources are.

I had a quick look at the technical archive but couldn't see much. Land Rover would understandably be bit cagey about handing out vector graphics for their logos too!

Traced the logo far right and neither the letters nor the spacing really lines up with the 130 logo in the middle. Maybe just different revisions over time?

Iv'e gone with the far right spacing for now anyway.

 

 

[PolarBlair]

Need to move the countersunk bolt holes relative to the magnet recesses on the other side as they interfere - just. Still no reason not to improve. Also need to be mindful of the o-ring recess.

Needed to re-print the mount anyway. So before I do, making a test print for better fitment.

[Filbee]

19 minutes ago, PolarBlair said:

Defender Logo-Model.pdf 28.45 kB · 1 download

Land Rover would understandably be bit cagey about handing out vector graphics for their logos too!

 

 

 

You're not wrong there!

I know an automotive artist who sells some of his work through Etsy. He got a legal letter off Jaguar-Landrover because he did a nice piece of a Series landrover that had been parked 0in a barn for many years.

If memory serves correctly the letter told him he couldn't use the Landrover name or logo in the picture, nor refer to it being a Landrover in the sales description/advert...

 

[PolarBlair]

9 minutes ago, Filbee said:

You're not wrong there!

I know an automotive artist who sells some of his work through Etsy. He got a legal letter off Jaguar-Landrover because he did a nice piece of a Series landrover that had been parked 0in a barn for many years.

If memory serves correctly the letter told him he couldn't use the Landrover name or logo in the picture, nor refer to it being a Landrover in the sales description/advert...

 

Ooof. So eBay sales probably not a smart move is what you're saying?

That is assuming this idea isn't a total fail which it easily still could be.

[Filbee]

8 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

Ooof. So eBay sales probably not a smart move is what you're saying?

 

I'm not going start giving advice on what you should or shouldn't do, I was just picking up on your comment about them being cagey with the specs for their logos, and what happened with friend was confirmation of how protective they are of the brand..

I don't know where using the word "Defender" sits in the scheme of things!

 

 

 

[PolarBlair]

2 hours ago, Filbee said:

I'm not going start giving advice on what you should or shouldn't do, I was just picking up on your comment about them being cagey with the specs for their logos, and what happened with friend was confirmation of how protective they are of the brand..

I don't know where using the word "Defender" sits in the scheme of things!

 

 

 

I think we both know EXACTLY where it sits!

But to be honest, if this thing somehow turns out to be good enough for the odd forum member that wants to have one too, I'm willing to take the risk.

I think it's fair enough for people to want their vehicles to have a 'factory' look.

Doubt LR would see it the same way, so will be staying well away from fleabay.

When I'm done with the vector graphics for the logo, I'll get them uploaded to technical archive providing thats not against Forum rules.

[elbekko]

LR being cagey with their trademark isn't just because they're evil person I'm not that keen on, it's because they *have* to defend it or they'll lose their claim to the trademark.

Which is why years ago they went after all of the forums and such with Land Rover in the name.

[PolarBlair]

2 hours ago, elbekko said:

LR being cagey with their trademark isn't just because they're evil person I'm not that keen on, it's because they *have* to defend it or they'll lose their claim to the trademark.

Which is why years ago they went after all of the forums and such with Land Rover in the name.

Oh, I'm not suggesting at all that they shouldn't protect their IP. I'm just keeping an eye on forum rules as well as looking to fly below the radar. Besides, I'm still a long way off needing to worry about any of that.

[PolarBlair]

Twiddling thumbs waiting for another test print to finish so mocked up a 130 version in the meantime.

[reb78]

Maybe print Grenadier Prototype on them? LR cant have a say in that!

 

I like that design above though. 
 

You could always offer them blank with the option for people to add a personalised design? 8 letters and three letters max? You aren't using the logo then but I bet people will choose it! 

[PolarBlair]

27 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Maybe print Grenadier Prototype on them? LR cant have a say in that!

 

I like that design above though. 
 

You could always offer them blank with the option for people to add a personalised design? 8 letters and three letters max? You aren't using the logo then but I bet people will choose it! 

That would be cheeky. Maybe still have defender but with Grenadier font? 😁 

Now that the handle surface is flat adding letter and logo is a doddle (within reason)

So yes, definitely an option to personalise to individual request.

Will need to run it for a while fitted to see how it holds up before I dare inflict this on others!

If only I had a tormach....

 

[PolarBlair]

I think the o-ring isn't strictly speaking necessary to keep water out so I could always remove it if it causes too much trouble. The second test turned out well. It does rub when sliding, but a bit of lubrication should help. I'll need to look into suitable lube that won't impact the paint. Maybe dry PTFE spray?

The seal does need to sit slightly proud so it can slot into the groove in the lid. Bit of a challenge finding the balance between leaving enough slack in the rail for the o-ring, paint buildup, expansion/contraction due to temperature and general wear from the rails sliding. I'm hoping the magnets will help pull the lid to the base to close the gap even it there's more slack over time.