Rear door handle Rain Shedder - Advice needed.

[PolarBlair]

1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

Or you could just rivet a rubber flap over the whole lot. Job done.

Mike

Bit ugly no? Design above is just a first stab and not to everyone's taste I'm sure but can't see a rubber flap being very pretty either. More holes in the skin, flap is flexible so likely to well, flap around. Can't see it staying in place well enough to seal around the edges either when I'm on the motorway.

 

[PolarBlair]

2 hours ago, smallfry said:

Then the whole rear tub will fill with water 😄 Remember that Land Rovers only let water in, not out ! 

Previous owner coated the back with bed liner to provide a nice seal. Maybe I'm just missing the opportunity for a mobile pool staring me in the face? 🤔 It's called a tub after all. Even already has two drain plugs behind the second row seats which I wasn't aware was a standard feature.

[miketomcat]

2 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

Bit ugly no? Design above is just a first stab and not to everyone's taste I'm sure but can't see a rubber flap being very pretty either. More holes in the skin, flap is flexible so likely to well, flap around. Can't see it staying in place well enough to seal around the edges either when I'm on the motorway.

 

I think anything you do won't look good. But then I have an ibex .

Mike

[PolarBlair]

18 minutes ago, miketomcat said:

I think anything you do won't look good. But then I have an ibex .

Mike

You just don't appreciate my artistic vision 

Maybe Clarkson put it better.

Prepare to bask in the turbulence of magnificence! 

[smallfry]

Actually I think the most practical and useful solution to this, is a swing away wheel carrier, drop down tailgate and a cat flap. Nice tee handle and makes the vehicle much more useful IMO. Much better than the silly side opening door.

[PolarBlair]

8 minutes ago, smallfry said:

Actually I think the most practical and useful solution to this, is a swing away wheel carrier, drop down tailgate and a cat flap. Nice tee handle and makes the vehicle much more useful IMO. Much better than the silly side opening door.

I do like the idea. Shame the rear window ends up being so small. For my purposes a double rear door would be ideal so we could stretch an awning between the doors and get a covered vestibule. Would be handy for getting muddy kit off ourselves and the kids after a day in the hills. Also provide shelter for nappy changes.

I'm sure it's been done before but I didn't find anything like that for the standard door that wasn't just a separate awning. Don't think those would stand up to Highland gales.

[reb78]

16 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

Quick stab at V2. Last chance to see if this idea has any merit.

I havent designed it in yet but could easily recess in a gasket. The sliding mechanism should stop rain and road spray making it anyway. I have some neodymium magnets that would fit in the flat face along the bottom edge of the mount and into the lid too.

This coupled with the drain holes and a bit of tiger seal would keep it dry and let any water that did make it in somehow back out.

Low profile so would fit nicely behind the spare wheel.

This is a lot less work than it looks. Just send to the printer and hit go. Tollerance to make it a snug fit without locking up designed in.

 

 

I like that. 

Are you sliding the flap up or down? I dont think it matters but I guess down has the potential for the slide part to fall out or down while moving? Up has the potential to let water wick in more.

[Bowie69]

22 minutes ago, PolarBlair said:

For my purposes a double rear door would be ideal so we could stretch an awning between the doors and get a covered vestibule.

So why not do that? Can't actually see it being that hard, just need to deal with the arch boxes to make it more useful, slope them down like they do in the front, at the bulkhead. 

Fit lights to the doors and job done.

Then you can choose a non-LR latch and be done with the whole debacle.

[chuff]

I smeared 3M 08509 windscreen seal in the crack/joint at the lower of my rear door handle. Let it harden a week or so and wipe out the excess with brake cleaner. My door has the smaller recess mind you. 

Don't put epoxy resin in there, the doors flex and it'll fail then be Impossible to remove. 

[PolarBlair]

1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

So why not do that? Can't actually see it being that hard, just need to deal with the arch boxes to make it more useful, slope them down like they do in the front, at the bulkhead. 

Fit lights to the doors and job done.

Then you can choose a non-LR latch and be done with the whole debacle.

Don't have a workshop at the moment so doing everything in the open air. Plus that's a lot more work than a quick 3D print and some adhesive!

Probably wouldn't go quite as far as making the doors the full width of the back.  Half doors in the existing opening would be plenty for a small space to stand in. Probably more sensible as less surface area in high winds too. May not even require a swing away wheel carrier at that point either 🤔 

For now though, it's a low budget semi permanent fix I'm after.

Also just found out the roof is leaking. Giant crack in the paint in the middle of the roof just above the door and the central reinforcement rib is full of water. Priorities might have just shifted a little 

Looks like evidence of a few hasty bodge job fixes on the inside in that area too. So much for insulating the roof tomorrow!

[PolarBlair]

14 minutes ago, chuff said:

I smeared 3M 08509 windscreen seal in the crack/joint at the lower of my rear door handle. Let it harden a week or so and wipe out the excess with brake cleaner. My door has the smaller recess mind you. 

Don't put epoxy resin in there, the doors flex and it'll fail then be Impossible to remove. 

That was exactly what I thought. Potting compound as previously suggested on the other hand, shouldn't do that.

Ill try the cover for a bit and just see how it goes. If it fails, I'll just separate it from the door with some fishing line.

Edited December 4, 2021 by PolarBlair

[PolarBlair]

1 hour ago, reb78 said:

I like that. 

Are you sliding the flap up or down? I dont think it matters but I guess down has the potential for the slide part to fall out or down while moving? Up has the potential to let water wick in more.

Cheers! Plan is to slide up. The sliding slot continues light up and over on both the base plate and the cover. So when it's down and interlocked, water from above isn't going to be able to make it in. It's possible spray from below may still be able to, but it would be easy to put in a recess for an o-ring.

Working on it now to add detail for this and the magnets to see how much space I have to play with. Hopefully have enough room for magnets to hold open too.

[Bowie69]

Full width catflap and tailgate... mmmmm

[PolarBlair]

15 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Full width catflap and tailgate... mmmmm

Stop putting dangerous ideas in my head 

[PolarBlair]

So here's V2.1

All edges nicely chamfered, two rows of magnets to lock closed and lock in the open position too. O-ring to keep out moisture, with a shallow recess in the lid to help seal.

It wont need to open this far normally - just slid back to show the second row of magnets.

 

Water should be directed away before it has a chance to make it up and over the lip internally.

 

Will be tricky to get the O-ring compression right. Hopefully I've put the correct tollerance in to get a decent seal without creating too much friction and stopping the lid from sliding against the o-ring.

[Mo Murphy]

Awaiting the real thing, this will be interesting.

Mo

[reb78]

yep. I think this could turn out quite smart!

[PolarBlair]

Have a little time to kill now the new filament is here and im finishing off the cover for the gas strut on the rear door.

This was my old logo I used for some of my old 3D printing project. Still need to work with rounding edges. Thoughts?

Figured some kind of low profile handle would be a good idea to help sliding.

[PolarBlair]

Woops  waaay too big. This is why we test with templates I guess. Doesn't follow the handle recess perfectly but won't overlap anywhere either. Good enough.

Also the ironing experiment didn't work at all. Just resulted in warping and bubbling on the face of the print.

Reduced it by 40mm on top, 6mm on the sides and it's a much better fit.

Also stock surface finish looks fine without ironing switched on. Should be able to get away with primer and a bit of wet and dry.

Not bad at all in terms of material usage either. Should only be 100g of filament with a 20% infill for a bit more rigidity. Sealing to door skin should keep it flat. In a warmer country, I'm sure PLA wouldn't be the first choice for this. Should be fine for Scotland - time will tell.

See you in 8hours. 

[Mo Murphy]

Tick tock ... 😁

Mo

[elbekko]

What printer is that? I'm jealous of you being able to print large things.

[PolarBlair]

2 hours ago, elbekko said:

What printer is that? I'm jealous of you being able to print large things.

Creality Ender 5 plus. More info here:

 

[PolarBlair]

Bumwhistles. Think the nozzle is nearly worn out. Still on the original one so all things considered it's done well to get this far.

I'll complete this print anyway to see what I get. Probably fix it by just increasing the number of top layers. Shouldn't affect the part.

[elbekko]

5 minutes ago, PolarBlair said:

Creality Ender 5 plus. More info here:

 

Thanks. Might have to upgrade, getting mighty annoyed with the one I have now (XYZ DaVinci Jr). No heated bed, small print area, and have only ever gotten it to print PLA properly, PETG never wanted to cooperate.

[PolarBlair]

1 hour ago, elbekko said:

Thanks. Might have to upgrade, getting mighty annoyed with the one I have now (XYZ DaVinci Jr). No heated bed, small print area, and have only ever gotten it to print PLA properly, PETG never wanted to cooperate.

It's a great printer for modding and aftermarket parts too. The removable spring steel print surface is a game changer.