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Rear door handle Rain Shedder - Advice needed.


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I doesn't need to have a purpose to sell, it just needs to be shiny and have a perceived purpose.

But dirt and dust get in the cap lock and diesel dribbles in the opening attract dirt.

Fuel filler covers that look like your handle cover would appeal due to being slidey and not having primitive hinges and locks. I'd like one but I've never seen one I like.

Look at all the billet door hinges available, most have no better function than the original except for being more expensive but are more visually appealing.

Food for thought perhaps ?

Mo

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14 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

I doesn't need to have a purpose to sell, it just needs to be shiny and have a perceived purpose.

But dirt and dust get in the cap lock and diesel dribbles in the opening attract dirt.

Fuel filler covers that look like your handle cover would appeal due to being slidey and not having primitive hinges and locks. I'd like one but I've never seen one I like.

Look at all the billet door hinges available, most have no better function than the original except for being more expensive but are more visually appealing.

Food for thought perhaps ?

Mo

Definitely! Cheers for the tip 👍 

I did think the hinge looked like it could turn into a bit of a faff over time.

If all goes well with this one I'll give it a go 😁

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If you do, then remember some vehicles have telescopic filler necks for use with Jerrycans, hence the high arch in the body panel.  All 109s with factory rear tanks have that system and use exactly the body aperture that was carried over to the 110 and late 90s.

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On 12/29/2021 at 4:07 AM, Snagger said:

If you do, then remember some vehicles have telescopic filler necks for use with Jerrycans, hence the high arch in the body panel.  All 109s with factory rear tanks have that system and use exactly the body aperture that was carried over to the 110 and late 90s.

Good shout - I think the sliding hatch would have to continue up and on to the curved portion of the rear quarter panel to give enough clearance for the filler neck when it's extended.

First things first however - stop her from gushing the contents of the fuel tank onto my driveway! I wussed out and went the insurance route to get a garage to sort it.

Replacing the gasket and fuel connector assembly isn't a particularly difficult job, but without a covered work area in winter, I'd rather not risk crud making it into the fuel system. 

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  • 1 month later...

Cheers guys! Once I'm done with my other mods I'll get on to a revised version with what I've learned and fuel cover version compatible with the extended filler neck.

Realised now that it's on, it probably would be a smart move to have a backup cover just incase! Time will tell how well the PLA lasts so I would probably be cautious about making them for others until it's been problem free for a good 6months to be on the safe side. Especially as it involves putting holes in your lovely defender :blink:

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Well it's obviously OK in the cold,  but be aware that direct summer sunshine may also affect it. Longevity is obviously important,  but so is its operation in adverse conditions.  You don't want to be in a situation where you can't open the cover- especially on a fuel filler! However that us a case of proving it through use, but hopefully everything will be OK- but if not it looks like you have the skill to adapt your design. 

I think you have done a great job which is obviously being proven by the fact it works!

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6 hours ago, Mossberg said:

Well it's obviously OK in the cold,  but be aware that direct summer sunshine may also affect it. Longevity is obviously important,  but so is its operation in adverse conditions.  You don't want to be in a situation where you can't open the cover- especially on a fuel filler! However that us a case of proving it through use, but hopefully everything will be OK- but if not it looks like you have the skill to adapt your design. 

I think you have done a great job which is obviously being proven by the fact it works!

Yup - exactly my thoughts. So far freezing conditions haven't had any impact but UV damage and heat remain to be tested. I wouldn't expect the first prototype to be without flaws so it will be interesting to see how it does over summer.

Exposing to direct heat on a radiator for a few days to help the paint fully cure didn't result in any warping which is a good sign.

The PLA soaked up a fair bit of primer which I hope would help stabilise and reduce warping. High infill density helps too. So far so good!

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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

I'm sure early user feedback would be useful to you, if you put a dozen out at nominal cost then you may get a few bites, and speed up the whole process significantly.

 

 

 

 

 

You're probably right there. I would first want to ensure no critical design changes would result in moving the mounting holes for example. That way a fatal flaw could be remedied with a design revision and an easy replacement.

Another way would be to just produce parts that have 100% infill which would let people put the bolts and screws where it best suited them. Slightly less user friendly though. It's always handy if the part that's being fitted can be used as a template for the holes.

Still waiting on my workshop being built after which I can explore more robust options like resin casting. Easier to produce small batches too. Don't think wifey would be too pleased about me commandeering the kitchen table again. I'm on thin ice there as it is 😅

I probably need to get hands on with some of the newer doors too and make sure there arent any fitment Problems there.

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  • 9 months later...

It's been a minute - and thanks to my high IQ, I've waited for the snow to make another version.

The PLA one does still fit and is still keeping water out but warped a bit over the summer.

The thin lip around the baseplate also warped and pulled away from the door.

Very minor tweaks for the new version, mostly change of material. I've gone for ASA this time with much lower layer height.

It promises to be substantially more thermally stable but it's more expensive. £30 for 750g roll.

But the quality is looking fantastic! The lower layer height increases the resulotuon but with more layers, comes more time. It takes 3 full days to print so won't be commercially viable unless I look into resin casting.

IMG_20221208_165220.thumb.jpg.d4772f0d4e7a34cd6f2362546849dccb.jpgIMG_20221208_185118.thumb.jpg.bddd13ff34d37abdd88d54ce8cb8f633.jpgIMG_20221209_091447.thumb.jpg.0c23d801f729521c8e3b2f5d34a9f38e.jpgIMG_20221209_102245.thumb.jpg.dfb25098135f9c338ecdfef1ae8f6ed0.jpg

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This looks really good and you should give yourself a pat on the back.

I have a Prusa 3D printer kit on order so I will be looking through your previous posts with great interest. I will need to build the printer after Christmas and then I need to get some 3D software and learn how to use it. 

I will be interested in your choices of filament materials as I personally want to make working kit, not just models!! One of the first things I want to look at is caps for the centre of alloy wheels on my 10 spline front axles.

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3 hours ago, Mossberg said:

This looks really good and you should give yourself a pat on the back.

I have a Prusa 3D printer kit on order so I will be looking through your previous posts with great interest. I will need to build the printer after Christmas and then I need to get some 3D software and learn how to use it. 

I will be interested in your choices of filament materials as I personally want to make working kit, not just models!! One of the first things I want to look at is caps for the centre of alloy wheels on my 10 spline front axles.

Hi Mossberg! I'm by no means an expert. A good friend of mine runs mineproducts and he has a few prusas churning out prints.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mineproducts

He gave me the confidence to take the plunge and get my Ender 5 plus.

From what I've seen you will be very happy with your prusa. Custom tuned filament settings are a big deal. I had to choose a generic ASA profile to print the ApolloX filament as cura says my printer doesn't technically support it despite downloading the settings from the material marketplace. That being said, it has been amazing so far with no warping or bed adhesion problems.

Could be good for your application as it's a lot tougher than PLA and I'm getting away without a heated enclosure.

Other than that I've found even the generic PLA on Amazon to be quite good. Worst results I've had have been with Matt filament from Polyterra - a well known brand. That's what my cup holders and storage inserts are made of. I already have a glas fibre kit to reinforce the centre console from the inside just incase. 

As far as software goes I still use SketchUp and use a plugin to export STL. files.

It's super fast to pick up but has limitations. If you're going to be learning from scratch I would be tempted to learn Fusion360 or something like that. A lot more powerful and less potential pitfalls. Everything in SketchUp is essentially broken down into triangles. Delete a line, and the face disappears. Bit more of a pain for complex shapes and curves, but again there are plugins to expand functionality. Also sketchup isn't parametric so you can't adjust things proportionally on the fly by simply changing a dimension. But for ease of use and low complexity models it gets you up and running pretty quick 

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Not sure if I've shown it on here already but this is my Ender 5 plus. I chose it for the huge build volume for the price and because it's very easy to mod. The cable chains were a necessary print to let this fit under my inverter. Before it was rotated 90degrees which made using it a pain.

Biggest upgrade was the magnetic spring steel PEI bed. Amazing adhesion and agai, necessary after a print took part of the original glass bed with it. Didn't break, just tore a chunk out of the middle!

Upgraded it with Capricorn PTFE tubing and a silent driver board. Replaced the fans too so now it's barely audible. 

Bit of a mess in my cupboard - always goes that way mid project.

IMG_20221209_214522.thumb.jpg.5100af9b97c9130e7d612823f7d8d783.jpg

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Many thanks for the replies. I am looking forward to getting the printer and giving it a go.

I was learning solidworks previously but I ended up loosing it on my PC, which is a shame as there were some great instructional videos on youtube. 

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Once you go parametric CAD, anything else just feels annoying and clunky.

Fusion 360 is ok, but I taught myself on Solidworks years ago, and still get horribly frustrated by Fusion quite often. But it has a free version, and Solidworks doesn't, so I use it anyway.

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Like the kid eating paste at the back of the class it appears I also can't be trusted with glue.

It looks worse than it is but I was hoping to avoid having to paint it. Some sanding and primer and I'm sure it will be fine.

Serves me right for messing around before I've had my morning coffe 🥲 

IMG_20221211_173546.thumb.jpg.4e0df2159e3253fa2c3b15e34aa8891a.jpg

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