Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I'm going to make a restart on my lightweight project, starting with the two fuel tanks. As anyone with an old series can tell you, the tanks rot out very quickly, due to the design which traps moisture between the tank proper, and the cradle it sits in, to which it's usually attached with solder or spot welds. I'm very keen to avoid this, as I've some original tanks with the age appropriate pressings. So, the plan is to apply one of these modern epoxy zinc rich paint products, like Jotun 90. These are 2 part, very thick paints, and I don't really know what spray gun technology to use to apply them. I've a couple of spray guns, of various degrees of quality, that I can use, but before I mess them up, I thought I'll ask if anyone has any tips or advice to offer. I've a relatively decent air set up, two 14 CFM units in parallel, and a air main to the workshop. Any one use these modern epoxy paints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I am no sprayer, but I think you would need to thin it to apply through a gun. I would suggest you contact the paint manufacturer and find out which thinners is appropriate for your paint and application. I wouldn't try to spray it too thick or you are likely just to make a mess of the job, your kit and yourself. Good luck with the job, I hope you can get to grips with it. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Any of these zinc rich two packs are quite thick, but can be sprayed as long as you up the thinners a bit -I've done it very successfully with a £30, small gun (was spraying components rather than panels). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 Yes, I'll start asking questions. I've also just discovered 3m disposable paint pots for spray guns. Which I think is a wonderful idea, no more clean up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 21 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Yes, I'll start asking questions. I've also just discovered 3m disposable paint pots for spray guns. Which I think is a wonderful idea, no more clean up! I’ve been using these for a number of years now, and agree they are very good. Note there’s two types and the water based lids have a finer mesh. From spraying raptor, I’d say you should be fine with 10% thinners. If you want to lay it on well a 2.0 primer tip should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Jotun publish data sheets on all their products which address how to spray etc. I don't think Jotun 90 is zinc rich, but Jotun Barrier is. It does have a lot of solids in. Or maybe if you have to, brush on a zinc primer, flat it off if necessary and spray on Jotun 90. Or there are things like Zinga Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 I know nothing about these things. I'll research barrier, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Maybe a stupid question but why not get the tanks galvanised? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 I have no experience of galvanising tanks, but anything I have had galvanised has needed lots of holes in them for two reasons - let the galv drain out when you remove the tank from the galv bath, but alto to let air out as it is lowered into the bath (this is very important as trapped air won't let the galv in but can also cause "explosions" as the air expands rapidly. We used to have a lot of box section items galvanised and we had to drill bleed and drain holes in strategic places - even then the items would come back with more holes in as the galvanisers would hang it differently to how we expected them to so drainage would be needed to suit. I think I have seen stainless tanks for series trucks, but then it is not original! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 3 hours ago, Mossberg said: I have no experience of galvanising tanks, but anything I have had galvanised has needed lots of holes in them for two reasons - let the galv drain out when you remove the tank from the galv bath, but alto to let air out as it is lowered into the bath (this is very important as trapped air won't let the galv in but can also cause "explosions" as the air expands rapidly. We used to have a lot of box section items galvanised and we had to drill bleed and drain holes in strategic places - even then the items would come back with more holes in as the galvanisers would hang it differently to how we expected them to so drainage would be needed to suit. I think I have seen stainless tanks for series trucks, but then it is not original! My only experience is with the construction industry. Columns only have drain holes at top and bottom and these are not that big. Looking at some images, the tanks have some inlet pipes at one end and a hole at the other on the top of tank. If it is hung so one is top and other bottom as its dipped it might be ok? I would much prefer Gal dipped or SS than a coating that could very easily delaminate and contaminate the fuel system. Sorry for the side track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 It's a fair question. The reasons I dislike the idea are: Lots of threaded fittings, filler cap fittings etc Risk of distortion, these are the correct early tanks, and I'm keeping them for the originality Solder along all the joints Risk they'll come back all bashed up The epoxy is very chemical resistant, will only go on the outside and will take a top coat fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 👍 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 They use an epoxy to line inside tanks, it's supposed to be ethanol proof and seals the pin holes, so it should be okay outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 11 hours ago, Gazzar said: It's a fair question. The reasons I dislike the idea are: Lots of threaded fittings, filler cap fittings etc Risk of distortion, these are the correct early tanks, and I'm keeping them for the originality Solder along all the joints Risk they'll come back all bashed up The epoxy is very chemical resistant, will only go on the outside and will take a top coat fine. If there is solder involved I would definitely not galvanise it. In fact all the points you raised are very valid. I think treatment would be your best bet, but choose well. I have heard of the stuff for inside the tanks, and if its a new tank that may be an option. I would take a look at the reviews and see what you think. Inside it is all down to the coating you use at the beginning, where on the outside at least you can add treatments- but then it does have to deal with the outside world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Galvanising on the inside of the tank will be stripped off by the fuel, usually in little flakes which will block your fuel filter (if you're lucky). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.