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O/T, Re water proofing Gore Tex.


Steve 90

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:lol:

Anyone recomend a good way of re waterproofing Gore tex? got an item that I havn't used for years and want to treat it before using it again coz It will be too late once it raining to find out it dont work any more!

Your not talking about your Speedo`s are you steve, Its good to hear that you are going to treat it after not using it for years :lol::lol::lol:

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whats happened to the Gore-tex? has it gone on the seams or all the way across? you can either spray proof or wash proof it- nikwax do a good wash in for gore-tex which i hvae found very succesful on a 10 year old jacket- it also re-textured the jacket. you do need to make sure that you wash the jacket with TX-direct first.

The spray-ons work, but you will lose all the benefits of the gore-tex normally as the spray on is effectively a barried coating and fills up all the little goretex holes.

Get yourself down to a GOOD outdoors place- we have taunton leisure which is brilliant and worth a trip if you are anywhere near it- places likes Blacks and such just aren't specilised enough in my opinion.

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Jase, Im not tellin you anything! Its Code 9!!!!!!!!

Na, your bang on the money, Preperation for Muddy Truckers. Cant be a**e'd with the tent so Im reckoning on using my Bivvy bag but its a long while since ive used it!

Jim, Im not sure if its the seams or all over. It may even be fine and not need treating but I wana do it just incase. Will be a bit late when im in scotland and its snowing on me to find it leaks!

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I thought Gore-Tex worked by having very small holes in it that let the moisture out but would not let liquid in. If it leaks then it must be torn - assuming that the seams are OK. I would suggest that if there are no problems with it then you would spoil it by applying any wax etc. as they will block the pores.

Chris

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The best thing for goretex is a very hot tumble dry... the hotter the better as long as the nylon / polyester doesnt melt. Don't leave it in too long, I do mine for about 10 minutes. I was told to do this by Karrimor when my jacket was leaking on the back. It worked...

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When tumble drying gore- garments, remember to fasten up all of the zips and close all of the flaps. Un fastened zips have a nasty habit of making good size rips in gore- fabrics (don't ask me how I know that).

Also tumble dry garments individually for better results.

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There are two products I have used for re-proofing breathable fabrics - both of which are branded nikwax, and are generally available from blacks or millets. Tech-wash is a detergent that dosn't damage the waterproofing, and is worth using before you re proof the coat. TX-Direct is the stuff for re-proofing. Fabsil is not breathable in the same way, so will likely wreck your nice breathable coat.... :o

hope that helps

Mark

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as Mark says above,

the most effective methods i have found are to wash no more than two items at a time in a normal wash cycle 40 deg.

unzip the pockets prior to washing or you will potentially end up with pockets of water.....

then use loft tech wash for 1 wash 40 deg

then TX Direct for 1 wash 40 deg

then tumble dry (note previous comments on zips/poppers and the velcro.

then you can use a cool iron (note cool or you will melt it)

seems to work well on the various differnet types of jkct i have used it on.

Gortex does seem to loose its properties quicker if worn with the outside in contact with things, eg driving,

the reproofing is desgin to get the water to bead again, you only need to do it if the garment wets out (eg jsut looks wet (although that sounds stupid))

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You dont need to re-waterproof your goretex top!!!!!!!!!!. Goretex is waterproof!!!!!!!!!!! What happens is the outer layer of fabric that the goretex membrane is fixed to loses its ability to shed water, and this is known as wetting out. once this has happened the goretex cant pass the moisture through the outer fabric so it sits on the inside as condensation, and feel cold and clammy as if the top is leaking. unless a seem tape has gone. when you wash it DONT use biological powder and either tumble dry or iron with a coolish temp to seal the outer surface.

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