RRC body/shell refurbishment specialist recommendations

[Snagger]

And a bit more porn for you guys: the interior of the pale blue E-Type, an Alfa Giulietta Spider, and the Spider’s rare Pinin Farina hard top (it even has the numbered plate)

[Arjan]

Very Nice !

[Snagger]

Just had a chat with them and it’s coming along.  They have received the new shell panels, including the complete floor panel for RRC, not a cut and shut Discovery panel - there is a company in Wolverhampton that has just started making them and this is one of the first three sent out to customers.  So, they will be starting on the shell in earnest next week.  Apparently, all the axle and suspension parts are back from blasting, too.  All of the exterior panels are in the epoxy primer.  Painting will wait until close to completion so as to minimise the risk of damage to the paint.  They said to expect some photos next week.

[Snagger]

Paid a visit to them on Thursday.  It is coming along.  The body shell is mostly repaired, including the first delivery of the new RRC 4-door boot floors being made (not two Discovery floors stitched together), the new front quarters, sills and foot well kick panels.  The chassis is coated in epoxy primer, as are all the outer panels.

The axles have been stripped.  The rear diff pan is not perforated as I had believed, so doesn’t red any repair.  The original callipers that I rebuilt years ago with Zeus stainless pistons are all inspected and in great condition, so will just be repainted.  The steering box is cleaned up, a new seal has been fitted but it is otherwise sound.  The Boge strut is getting a good external tidy up and new ball joints, and they said it appeared to be in very good order, so will not be opened up or sent to ZF.

The diffs are going to be sent to Ashcroft for rebuild with ATBs.  The rear has a little backlash, apparently, so a refresh is needed.  The diff that was in the front axle was said to be pretty good.  They asked about using the “reconditioned diff” that was sitting in the boot - that was the original front diff that I swapped out while trying to isolate a mild vibration issue, and has had nothing done to it.  Nice to know it was so good.  That original front and the rear diffs are the two that will be rebuilt.  No news on the R380, but I asked them to take the Ashcroft rebuild kit down with the diffs and compare the kit’s baulk rings to Ashcroft’s latest if there is any difference in them (from what I have seen on the recent BritRest videos, I think they have changed to a vastly better type).

[Snagger]

The rear wheel arches were entirely free of rust around their lower edges and the seat belt anchors, unusually, but had holed where they met the spot welded flange of the boot side panels, so those sections were replaced rather than the whole arches - all the replacements available have ugly creases on the bottom inner corners, while the original arches have smooth corners, so the original material was left intact.  A lot of the outer panels are being fitted to check alignment and fit before the shell is finally cleaned and prepared for paint.

[Snagger]

A couple of photos from this week.

The shell repairs are complete with the new boot floor, sills, rear cross member, foot well side panels and entire front wheel arches.  The rear side panels had their flanges repaired where they meet the boot floor sides and rear arches.  Initial fitting of the doors and outer panels was being done last time I visited to make sure all the attachments are set correctly before finishing works started.

The shell has been epoxy primed inside and out.  The whole underside has been coated with black Raptor, and I believe they will be following with a colour coat of Raptor.  

The R380, BW and diffs have been sent to Ashcroft for rebuild of all four units and the two ATBs.

The original callipers are being reused along with the Zeus stainless pistons, but are in the process of being rebuilt again with new seals.

[Anderzander]

So clean !  👏🏻 

Very satisfying 

[landroversforever]

That’s looking lovely Snagger!

[FridgeFreezer]

On 8/26/2023 at 9:48 AM, Snagger said:

The shell has been epoxy primed inside and out.  The whole underside has been coated with black Raptor, and I believe they will be following with a colour coat of Raptor.  

I'm sure it's tough stuff all round but I can't help but think something with a bit of zinc in it somewhere would be a nice touch.

[landroversforever]

30 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'm sure it's tough stuff all round but I can't help but think something with a bit of zinc in it somewhere would be a nice touch.

Retropower do a hot zinc spray over the underside before the raptor coating. 

[Snagger]

1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'm sure it's tough stuff all round but I can't help but think something with a bit of zinc in it somewhere would be a nice touch.

It would, but given a few coats of the epoxy and a few more of Raptor, it’s a moot point.  At least I can be confident that the epoxy will be 100% attached, while a hot zinc coat could compromise that.  Given the nature of the cars this company works on and their enthusiasm that those cars are used all year around, not hidden away in sealed dry garages, I’m content that it will be perfectly resilient.  This RR is not going to be doing the Darien Gap…

[FridgeFreezer]

40 minutes ago, Snagger said:

At least I can be confident that the epoxy will be 100% attached, while a hot zinc coat could compromise that.

Not sure I follow that logic, surely hot zinc spray would be more attached than paint?

[Snagger]

17 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Not sure I follow that logic, surely hot zinc spray would be more attached than paint?

The zinc would attach well to the steel.  It is a question of how well the epoxy sticks to the zinc.  The point is that between several coats of epoxy and several more of Raptor, the zinc is overkill unless you are likely to be deeply abrading the underside.  Given how well my chassis stood up with just the thin coat of black paint that LR wafted in its general direction and how much more protection it is getting now, I think these specialists are right in their view that hot zinc spraying will have no benefit.

[Bowie69]

To be honest, most of the destructive rust happens from inside and along unsealed seams, with the seams properly sealed (unlike from the factory) and the cavities copiously filled with a good wax, there shouldn't be any problems, IMHO. 

[Snagger]

Yes - the shell only suffered on the spots welded lap joints.  Sills and rear cross member had started rotting out along their seams and a bit behind the door pillar feet and body mounts while the front wheel arches and foot well side panels only rusted on the lapped joints of the various layers.  As you said, a bit of sealing on the outside and some decent cavity injection should put paid to any reoccurrence.  
 

I did know a guy who rebuilt a two door about 20 years ago and had the shell hot dipped, and sure enough he had distortion and warping.

 

Anyway, I just got off the phone with Ashcrofts as there seemed to be a little confusion in the emails about who the final customer is (me or Mike at Revival) and the exact requirements for the R380 (uprated or standard).  So that is all ironed out and they’ll be starting on them soon.  They agreed that since it is powered by a 300Tdi (albeit with Turner Engineering having gas flowed the head for a modest performance or economy increase), it has no need of the gear box being uprated with their bigger bearings or HD parts.

[Snagger]

On 8/29/2023 at 2:38 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

I'm sure it's tough stuff all round but I can't help but think something with a bit of zinc in it somewhere would be a nice touch.

I just watched Retropower’s video from two days ago, and Nat was explaining that the epoxy primer they have used on the E-Type sill innards is high in zinc content.  It has the same pale grey tone as the epoxy on my chassis and shell, while my panels are covered over the polyester with a dark grey epoxy.  I presume the tone is to do with the zinc content, but I’ll be asking the boss next time I’m in touch.  I had no idea there were major differences in epoxy primers or that zinc would be of much benefit in it, but you can learn a lot from such videos.

[FridgeFreezer]

I suspected that might be the case but good to have it confirmed - would also be good to get the brand / product name if it's good stuff that they have a good track record with 

[Snagger]

I’ll ask.  They have been doing this for quite some time and have plenty of car worth over £200k in there, and use the same methods and products on all of them, so it’ll be good stuff regardless.  They are no Liveridge or Nene.

[Snagger]

I got a rushed call off standby to do a Stansted trip a couple of days ago, so had the chance to drop in at short notice to see how it’s going.

The chassis and suspension are painted.  The shell had been in the booth for the green paint and lacquer, but they had an urgent job come in, so it got dragged out again.  Well, I’m not in a rush.  The axle cases are primed and awaiting paint.  I’m not sure if they are waiting for the diffs to come back first, so they can be painted complete - it’d make some sense to do that, given the finish they are striving for.

We talked about brake lines.  They usually make them in copper, but I think cunifer might be more resilient.  Suspension bushes are all going to be standard.  The De Carbon dampers are still mint, so are going back on as I liked the ride they gave.  We also discussed having strips of flat bar bolted to the seat mounts to allow the seats to be set back another inch or so, as I was just slightly pinched with the seats as far aft as they could go - this mod will be bolt-in and the mountings themselves won’t be altered in anyway.  The transmission and diffs have been rebuilt at Ashcroft and are waiting to be delivered, so hopefully I’ll have pictures of those soon.  They intend to get the chassis sat on its axles and the shell on top fairly soon..

They had another E-Type come in, and the Mini is getting close to finished.  There is also another RRC in for body work.  It’s a 1989 ex-Spanish two door that is being converted to be an Octopussy replica for one of the well known RR restoration specialists.  It has some small holes in the usual places, but was pretty good compared to any UK vehicle.

I asked about the primer, John.  It’s an Italian brand, begins with L, but I forgot the name.

[Snagger]

Some of the photos sent to me showing the returned transmission and prepared axle cases.

[Peaklander]

Wow, it’s going to look fairly new after all that! What an overhaul.

(I recognise the Ashcroft labels)

[Snagger]

1 hour ago, Peaklander said:

Wow, it’s going to look fairly new after all that! What an overhaul.

(I recognise the Ashcroft labels)

For the money, it should look better than new!  In fairness, the chassis does and the shell in primer looks perfect.  The front axle was supported on the Panhard brackets for painting, so those will get attention.  It’s satin black over epoxy.  I’m still torn on whether to cover it all up with a stone resistant tarry/waxy coating.  They like to keep it like this and touch up as required, but I think a more resilient thoughtless pretty finish is more practical for the underside - I don’t need a concours finish down there.  I have never had a vehicle with epoxy primer before, so don’t know how resistant to chipping and rust it is (obviously a good deal more than the original LR finish, but tough enough for regular use?).

[Anderzander]

Good epoxy is good … but if you want more perhaps one of the dinitrol products would offer it more protection, have a nice finish, and be something you could top up.

I used the 4941 on my 90 and that’s been good. Remains semi soft so doesn’t chip - and is just requiring top up after 2 years in a couple of places where I steam clean it. 

 

[FridgeFreezer]

2nd vote for whichever Dinitrol thing is right for the application, they do some stuff that is perfect for under-body or over-chassis.

[Snagger]

Some photos received today.