Northwards Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Hi folks, I’m planning an axle rebuild/swap in the next couple of months, and would like to shot-blast and prep the casing before rebuild. I did this last year with the rear axle for a P38 and used Por-15 paints/coverings. These do have Isocyanates and while I was brushing not spraying, I wasn’t quite hospitalised but ended up seeing consultants and CT scans etc etc. Definitely don’t want to go there again. Does anyone know of a decently hard-wearing paint/covering, suitable for a Defender axle, that is Isocyanate-free and OK for home/domestic use? The Por-15 stuff looks great, and is hard as nails, but I’m not that bothered about looks - just protecting the metal from rust and not having to repaint/cover every year. ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I have used por15 with no issues in the past but it's normally been outside. By the sounds of it your only option would be enamel/oil based paints. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 Thanks Mike. I’m still googling away, so I might find something. The Por-15 wanted something like 15-20degreesC - and that’s hard to find outside, in Scotland, in December - or indeed for most months of the year! It may not have been the Por-15 that caused the problems. This wasn’t proven in any way, but the timeline was right. I’d used it a few times before and perhaps I’d become sensitised to it. Not going to take any more chances anyway. Just hoping that someone can say “I’ve used this stuff, and it’s lasted really well” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I like jotun jotamastic 90 AL. It's a 2-pack marine paint and seems to be hard wearing and tolerant of less than 100% perfect prep. Not sure whether it is isocyanate free TBH, but the spec sheets are readily available Link. If you do use it I find it easier to weigh the ingredients for small quantities, SML sell scales and provide tables of weights, but you have to buy 4 litres at a time. If you are blasting the case Jotun do other paints such as Barrier which may be better on a well prepared surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 How about using the best paint and the correct PPE? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 First off, let me say I am absolutely no expert on paint so please bear that in mind either my comment. As you are painting an axle this is one place I would expect to get the odd scratch. Whilst I understand a strong paint will resist scratches, when rust does get into a scratch would it not be likely to rust under the paint? I have just refurbished an axle case and I used two coats of Bonda rust primer for its adhesion then a top coat. I do expect it to get scratched and will use a lanolin spray so I can keep my eye on it. However, if I was looking for a really corrosion resistant coating I would consider galvanising especially if I didn't have a good place to apply the paint. I have never personally done this so comments by someone who has would be welcome. Whatever you decide keep us updated on your progress and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I'm highly intolerant of solvents, so am cautious of paint. I've used the jotamastic 2k outdoors with just a organic compounds face mask. Jotamastic is isocyanate free I think. As is the Penguard hb, I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Mossberg said: However, if I was looking for a really corrosion resistant coating I would consider galvanising especially if I didn't have a good place to apply the paint. My own opinion but I would not bother galvanising a Defender axle if the vehicle is going to be frequently used off road, galv will scrape away on rocks just as easily as many other coatings and then ultimately harder to recoat whereas paint is easily touched up. Majority of axle is 6mm thick so will take a wee while to rust through, obviously diff pans and radius arm brackets will suffer a bit sooner but again rock rash will get these also regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 6mm? Really? Thought it was closer to 3mm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 28 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: 6mm? Really? Thought it was closer to 3mm... If you have a look at my Mog axle thread page 18 you can see where I cut the end off a Landrover axle revealing it to be 6mm regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 10 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: If you have a look at my Mog axle thread page 18 you can see where I cut the end off a Landrover axle revealing it to be 6mm regards Stephen So you did, apologies for not retaining that bit, now duly filed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 5 hours ago, Bowie69 said: So you did, apologies for not retaining that bit, now duly filed. I'd like to say its an age thing...... But your still a whipper snapper next to me...... regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted October 15, 2022 Author Share Posted October 15, 2022 Thanks folks, Whatever I do I fully expect scratches and reasonable wear and tear. I think I’ll get the Dinitrol redone this year as well, if I get the axle done before they start ladling salt on the roads around here. (That’s not really a complaint, just a fact of geography. Maybe we’ll have another mild winter). I’m keen to do something though as the original axle got so bad it had to go - about 12 years old at the time - not the (6mm!) casing, but the radius arm brackets and spring mounts etc. In its working life the car was used to launch an airport rescue boat and I think those salty conditions did for it. They certainly did for the original chassis. Proper paint and PPE - might be nice, but it’s just not practical for me. I don’t have a compressor or a booth; my garage is a non-insulated, unseated tin shed and heat it does get on a warm day is lost as soon as the sun goes behind a cloud. So this has to be done in the ‘cellar’ and finding something with fewer/different solvents has to be my way forward, even if not necessarily the ‘best’ way. Galving - hadn’t thought of that this time around though I remember looking at it in the past. I’d imagine that cleaning and tapping all the threads and ARB holes etc would be a pain. I did check out the jotun stuff - does look like that’s Isocyanate free, and on the basis of a couple of recommendations above I’ll look further. The car does get used off-road, though not extensively. No ‘green lanes’ up here either. Doing this is just in line with my general approach to do something as properly as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 No expert on paints so can't recommend anything but if you have a short list of possible products search for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) sheets for them. These will give a chemical list of anything potentially harmful and any recommended precautions to take for use, storage and transportation, more info than you would get on the normal instruction, provided you know what it is you are trying to avoid and now it could be listed as a chemical name it should show up on these. I would guess that anything that recommends breathing protection for solvents in it would probable be a bad idea for you. The sheets should be readily downloadable from either the retailer or the manufacturer (probable easy to find via google), they cover just about any chemical product available on the market, in theory every one should review them before handling any chemical, in reality few people do in the home environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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