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Stick on rear screen heater?


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I know the proper way is to replace with a rear screen with the heating element already built in. But I'm wondering if this would work:

Screenshot_20230222_152853_com.android.chrome_edit_21346137017053.thumb.jpg.21dfc76f82f735962f5950c93edb7d99.jpg

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/screen_heater_12_volt?gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorirVoWxqPYEUW40JHtQ0adB3x6dacUHvX2ohexiwErOvP08hftPZk6RoCuZwQAvD_BwE

Certainly seems fairly straightforward and at £36 the price is right.

Not having it until now hasn't bothered me but I've recently installed this rear view mirror cam:

Screenshot_20230222_152617_com.amazon.mShop.android.shopping_edit_21200912514992.jpg.1e2376fce2c56cf0cf5b44474f6e665a.jpg

WOLFBOX Rear View Mirror Camera:Mirror Dash Cam Front and Rear 4K+2.5K for Car with 12" Full Touch Screen, Waterproof Backup WDR Camera, Night Vision, G-Sensor, Parking Assist,Free 64GB Card & GPS https://amzn.eu/d/0YPQ3Fn

In case anyone is interested I've been really impressed with only two minor complaints. My bumpy track sets off the collision detection recording even on the lowest setting and I wish they could have made a single combined umbilical for power, GPS and the rear view camera. Other than that works great.

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So has anyone used one of these transparent heating element kits? 

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I remember them back in the 1980's and they were cack - didn't work very well and peeled off like cheap window tint film.

I'd look at a small cheap blower, one of those crappy 12v electric fan heaters blowing near the camera would probably manage to clear a spot.

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On a similar vein, way back when, you used to be able to buy a little bottle of heated screen repair paint. Just to touch up any breaks or cracks in the elements. 

I remember using it in one of the minis. Mixed result but might repair something if you have one in place? 

(Edit - sorry on the phone and just zoomed into your pic - no elements at all.) 

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5 minutes ago, Northwards said:

On a similar vein, way back when, you used to be able to buy a little bottle of heated screen repair paint. Just to touch up any breaks or cracks in the elements. 

haha had a smile when reading this , and it's still for sale :

https://www.bullseyecarparts.co.uk/product/hoses-and-fittings/0375-heated-screen-repair-paint-3g/0375

 

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That's the stuff! 

Actually, thanks for the link. I rarely use my rear window - preferring the mirrors, but I've a pal who's car I'm working on now who does use it; has a few broken elements; but would rather not spend on a new screen. 

We might have a try and a laugh with this! 

Sorry Polarblair for taking your thread a wee bit off the straight and narrow. 

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I have used that brushable repair paint before with great results.  Use masking tape on the glass to give nice, neat lines and it’s worth lightly sanding the surface of the element either side of the break before painting (after masking) to make sure it has good contact.  You can do a couple of coats to be sure of adequate conductivity.

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Sounds like a cheapie 12V blower would be the easiest option with the added benefit of giving passengers/ dogs in the rear some heat. I did wonder how well those elements would stick over time.

Long term I'll probably replace the rear door altogether and at that point get one with a wiper and heated element already built in.

Cheers guys 👍

 

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1 hour ago, PolarBlair said:

Sounds like a cheapie 12V blower would be the easiest option with the added benefit of giving passengers/ dogs in the rear some heat. I did wonder how well those elements would stick over time.

Long term I'll probably replace the rear door altogether and at that point get one with a wiper and heated element already built in.

Cheers guys 👍

 

I tried a couple of those heaters a long time back.  They are a waste of money, providing a little draft but no significant warmth.  Heated glass is a much better option.

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22 hours ago, Snagger said:

I tried a couple of those heaters a long time back.  They are a waste of money, providing a little draft but no significant warmth.  Heated glass is a much better option.

Even something more beefy like this?

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/ptc-ceramic-in-cab-heater-12v-300w-auto-heater-fan.html

Long term plan is to duct heat to the back but that's a ways off.

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On 2/22/2023 at 4:35 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

I remember them back in the 1980's and they were cack - didn't work very well and peeled off like cheap window tint film.

I had one or two back in those days and earlier. They were a lot better than nothing and nothing was the only other choice. If there's something better now, like a blower, then fine but otherwise I would use one. 

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You can run an extension cable out to the inside of the car and run a domestic fan heater on a timer plug for a few minutes before your anticipated driving time.  That does a great job of preheating the car.  Not much use away from home, though.  But for keeping windows demister, there is no substitute for the proper heated glazing.  At £30, why mess about with all the other clumsy and gash solutions that will just waste your money?

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I like that mirror/ camera setup. Could do with that in my van for reversing, as the mirrors are weird.

Is that camera supposed to be mounted externally though ?

What about a foam or rubber ring gasket with double sided moulding tape to surround the lens, thus isolating it from the condensed air. Might work, or might be a total fail. High level brake lights have this sort or gasket arrangement, and do not seem to suffer with condensation.

A slice of central heating pipe insulation might work ?

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23 hours ago, PolarBlair said:

Even something more beefy like this?

Yes, if you work out the amount of power required to heat any volume of air in a cold metal box it's orders of magnitude greater than what you can reasonably provide from 12v.

A small Eberspacher is ~3.5kW, a big one is 5kW which is probably closer to what a good OEM car heater manages. Some modern cars have PTC booster heaters for faster defrosting but those can be drawing 50+ amps and even then they're only assisting the main heater matrix while the engine's cold.

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39 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Yes, if you work out the amount of power required to heat any volume of air in a cold metal box it's orders of magnitude greater than what you can reasonably provide from 12v.

A small Eberspacher is ~3.5kW, a big one is 5kW which is probably closer to what a good OEM car heater manages. Some modern cars have PTC booster heaters for faster defrosting but those can be drawing 50+ amps and even then they're only assisting the main heater matrix while the engine's cold.

Makes sense. Sounds like I should just wait and do it properly.

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2 hours ago, smallfry said:

I like that mirror/ camera setup. Could do with that in my van for reversing, as the mirrors are weird.

Is that camera supposed to be mounted externally though ?

What about a foam or rubber ring gasket with double sided moulding tape to surround the lens, thus isolating it from the condensed air. Might work, or might be a total fail. High level brake lights have this sort or gasket arrangement, and do not seem to suffer with condensation.

A slice of central heating pipe insulation might work ?

You can of course mount it externally but I'm not sure how much I trust the waterproofing so I went for internal. Would solve the condensation but this way keeps the lens clean. I imagine having it mounted externally and periodically cleaning it would eventually scratch the lens.

It has a wire you can link to your reverse light to kick it into "reverse mode" but this only gives you the distance bars which I generally find to be pretty useless.

Makes sense for radios that can take a video feed to automatically display the reversing camera but I run it to only show the rear view so for me it didn't feel worth it.

The GPS function is a bit of a gimmick but does display direction and speed. Going into the menu then shows further information - number of satellites, their signal strength as well as lat&long which could come in handy.

Also means time is automatically updated so unaffected by battery disconnect.

There is PC software for the videos that apparently geotags the clips which could be useful info in the event of an accident.

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21 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Yes, if you work out the amount of power required to heat any volume of air in a cold metal box it's orders of magnitude greater than what you can reasonably provide from 12v.

A small Eberspacher is ~3.5kW, a big one is 5kW which is probably closer to what a good OEM car heater manages. Some modern cars have PTC booster heaters for faster defrosting but those can be drawing 50+ amps and even then they're only assisting the main heater matrix while the engine's cold.

Can confirm. My new car has a pre-heat function that works off the 400V plug-in hybrid battery. Heating the car from freezing to ~20°C takes more than the 1.7kW 220V charger can replenish, a good chunk of time, and about 4-5kWh from the battery. And that's on a modern, well-insulated car. A Defender would be... interesting, probably :D

 

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Do it properly to avoid disappointment !

I installed a Webasto 5Kw parking heater ex BMW in my 04 plate Combo van a few years ago, which was primarily to defrost the windows, and get the coolant temperature up before starting. If you are not aware, it starts and heats the coolant circuit, then when it gets up to 30 degrees, which is does after a couple of minutes, and switches on the heater blower and warms the car inside. It works a treat and I would not be without one now.

I do not really see the point of "just" an air heater, unless it is a living and sleeping vehicle, as you may as well have the engine heating facility.

 

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