110 rear tub mounting to rear cross member

[uninformed]

Hey all,

im building my own 2 door 110 rear tub from scratch (shorter than factory from both ends). I’ve also modified my chassis and fabricated a new rear cross member. 
 

I need to sort tub heights and chassis load bearing points. The front bulkhead is fixed in height, but the front and rear of tub would be adjustable on a factory set up. 
 

Essentially the front of tub (cab bulkhead) needs to be inline with the rear of tub and front bulkhead. 
 

My 110 was a cab chassis so never had a tub for me to measure from. 

Im after the following measurements:

The gap between the top of rear cross member and the rear of tub mounting angle

 

And the size of the vertical face of the tub mounting angle (mine is aftermarket so might be different to factory?) 

[Sigi_H]

Make the gap a little bigger. There is always (wet) mud trapped on the rear cross member and with a bigger gap you can clean it out easier.

[Snagger]

That looks about the normal gap.  The quarter panels either side of the rear door do overhang the tub cross member and close the gap up a fair bit.

Later models had a different tub attachment system.  They removed the five tabs and used a piece of angle bolted to the top of the chassis cross member that sat in front of the tub cross member.  It looks neater and stops the mud from the wheels running down the visible face of the cross member, but it is probably a lot harder to clean out properly and may be worse for corrosion if not prepared, primed and painted properly.  LR did a great job of that. 😂😂😂

[miketomcat]

Can't help with measuring but these might help.

Mike

[uninformed]

I’ve installed my new rear cross member  (height wise) in relation to the factory load bearing mounts, that I took note of before removing the original.

I have Series II/A tub cross members (the steel gal floor supports the are riveted to the underside of the tub and have rubber isolators to the chassis) . I’m under the impression these are the same height etc as Defenders? 

I had an old Series rear of tub mounting angle that had some witness marks but they seem to have it too high in my set up. I’m sure there are differences between Series and Coil sprung variants. 
 

Nick, yes, I think it was Td5 era (1999 onwards) that they went to the bolt on plate for mounting tabs. Good for reducing labour and distortion on the rear cross member, and maybe another point of adjustment, but other than that 👎🏼👎🏼. Looks like Mikes is a 90 and earlier rear than mine , as the Series had those style mounting tabs flat on back, my 98 300Tdi has them as angle welded to top of rear cross member. 
 

Mike, is that a 90? I know there was a difference in 88” and 109” tubs, the 88” having the floors directly fixed to rear the mounting angle and 109” having another transition piece in the form of a Z about 12mm in height… But looks like your photos may have that stacked in there as well?

Gap is closer than I thought but it makes sense numbers/measurements wise on mine.

 

Anyone else feel free to answer my original questions as it all helps 👍👍
 

 

[Sigi_H]

If you are working on the tub anyway consider this:

https://heiderei-ch.translate.goog/Boden.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

 

[uninformed]

I’m not a fan of how that’s executed. While access is nice, the tub rigidity is lost. Normally the floor is fastened to the wheel wells more than just a fixing at each cross support. It is also fixed to the floor stiffeners (3 longitudinal top hat sections), and these in turn are fixed to cross supports. In short, it’s all tied together in both directions. While the tub is flexible it has a certain amount of rigidity, which IMO is lost by his method. 

[Sigi_H]

May be. Time will show. I enjoyed the access several times and for me it payed of since around 90000 km

 

[Snagger]

Fit rivnuts and bolts along the edges and between longitudinal and lateral braces and you should have no rigidity concerns.  That said, I don’t think a fully removable floor is necessarily that advantageous; you just need to make a decent size inspection panel for the fuel tank and any wiring or plumbing.

[bishbosh]

5 hours ago, Snagger said:

you just need to make a decent size inspection panel for the fuel tank and any wiring or plumbing.

Which doesn't really work on a TD5 110 I have discovered as a floor support cross member goes directly over the top of the fuel pump access point. the previous owner installed an access hatch but had to cut the cross member into two which kind of defeats the point of having it!

I have resigned myself to having to drop the dank when the pump fails.

[Snagger]

Oh, another great piece of design evolution.  It makes you wonder, doesn’t it?

[uninformed]

Fuel pump accessibility isn’t a concern for me.

 

Still keen on the measurements I’ve requested. 

[Sigi_H]

I used YRM sets for the florpannel and bent some panels by myself. For me the removable flor already payed of, when I had to change the rear axle and the A-frame ball-joint.

Next will be electrics completely

 

 

Edited October 19, 2023 by Sigi_H

[hurbie]

hope this helps :

 

[uninformed]

@hurbie thanks heaps mate 👍. What year and what vehicle?

[bishbosh]

2005 100 TD5 CSW, in Orange and Black (if that helps! 😛 

[Bowie69]

Have you named it Tigger yet?

[hurbie]

5 hours ago, uninformed said:

@hurbie thanks heaps mate 👍. What year and what vehicle?

1987 110 3 door

[uninformed]

Thanks @bishbosh 👍

[uninformed]

On 10/20/2023 at 3:47 AM, hurbie said:

1987 110 3 door

@hurbie ive sent you a PM

[hurbie]

18 minutes ago, uninformed said:

@hurbie ive sent you a PM

not sure what u want to see :

[uninformed]

Thanks again @hurbie, looks like LR did something different with the tailgate seal from the Series type?  Unfortunately I cant see either in person.

Those pics are quite helpful thanks. The only other thing I was looking for was from inside, showing the top of wheel well where it butts into the rear 1/4

Edited October 22, 2023 by uninformed

[hurbie]

rear door seals on a 110 are different then a serie's (many say beter) , so you could just use the 110 quarters

there are tailgate's on 110/90 so the seals should availeble.

inside : 

wheelwell has a slight step in it , then goes down to match the rear quarter

then attaches straight to the rear panel

 

 

[uninformed]

Legend! 

Interesting.... I can only imagine that that little step in the wells was to clear under the lower light on 109s. No idea why LR carried it over to the 110 as they dropped the lower light to the bottom of the rear 1/4 panels. Its just more work and not as structural as straight through...