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For God sake don't tell the SWMBO !!!


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Hope you bond it well, wouldn't want that lump flying around in my cab, take your "fookin ed orf!". :unsure:

Tiger Bond should do it, then of course it will be behind the roof lining and I might put a few self tappers through from above to:

1. Help hold it

2. Show me where it is when I am placing the aerial.

3. If I seal the screws well enough, I might even manage to make an earth from the roof to the iron and from there I'll run a wire to ground.

If you felt the grab on that thing from a 7" magmount you'd be amazed :-)

Russ3120 wrote:

your going to do what??????????????????????

biggrin.gif laugh.gif biggrin.gif laugh.gif

Is it THAT daft then? Well most people despair of me ever being sensible - guess you could say I like to plough my own furrow... :ph34r:

The main thing is I wanted to use a magmount on the top of an RRC - I couldn't think of any other way to do it...

Cheers

Rog

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Have to admit that doesn't strike me as the most amazingly logical way to attach a CB aerial to the roof, if you're going to make holes in the roof anyway why not just bolt a normal mount on?

Also if Land Rover can't manage to stick some fabric to the roof of a RR I have to wonder how successful you'll be in bonding that thing to the roof. As for earthing, the roof will act as a nice big ground plane.

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Have to admit that doesn't strike me as the most amazingly logical way to attach a CB aerial to the roof, if you're going to make holes in the roof anyway why not just bolt a normal mount on?

Also if Land Rover can't manage to stick some fabric to the roof of a RR I have to wonder how successful you'll be in bonding that thing to the roof. As for earthing, the roof will act as a nice big ground plane.

The original (some may say strange..) concept for using a magmount came about because (a) it came with one. (B) if there is a sweeping branch then it will just get knocked over the back. © several people I know who have normally mounted aerials on LR or RR roofs have poor SWR probably due to crappy grounding - and a magmount (in theory) doesn't need an electrical ground under it since it uses capacitive coupling (sorry if I have the technical wording wrong here).

I guess I'm not necessarily going to put holes in the roof - it sort of depends what SWR I get without it - experimenting so far it seems within tolerable limits. The idea about grounding it came after I had already bought the rig, aerial and mount as a job lot and then did some research on ground-planes which suggests that an earthed ground plane would still be beneficial over a large (but electrically isolated) ground plane. Experiments have shown that I get a brilliant SWR on the stainless draining board for example - which is of course well connected to the biggest Earth of the lot ;-) As for holding it in place - well with the magmount the other side I reckon that there is a 30-40lb holding force (difficult to judge), and that is on top of a good layer of Tiger Bond (3lbs weight of plate, 48sq in - I think we'll be ok unless we can't get more than an ounce per sq in out of Tiger Bond...). If it does come off then it will still be behind the (glass-fibre) roof-lining as well. I'm happy that it's a safe arrangement.

Rog

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Just curious, as I haven't fitted my CB yet...

Correct me if I'm wrong but all magnets have poles (Duh..! :blink: ), a north and south, therefore I assume that the big magnetic ring on the base of a mag-mount has one pole on the top and the other on the bottom. If I were to get a second mag-mount base and turn the magnet upside down the two mag-mounts would attract each other.

(Here's the real question)

Is the attraction between two magnets greater than the attraction between one magnet and a piece of metal?

Only I can get hold of a second mag-mount cheaper down in my neck of the woods than a £60 Le Creuset Grillit pan. ;) ;)

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Just curious, as I haven't fitted my CB yet...

Correct me if I'm wrong but all magnets have poles (Duh..! :blink: ), a north and south, therefore I assume that the big magnetic ring on the base of a mag-mount has one pole on the top and the other on the bottom. If I were to get a second mag-mount base and turn the magnet upside down the two mag-mounts would attract each other.

(Here's the real question)

Is the attraction between two magnets greater than the attraction between one magnet and a piece of metal?

Only I can get hold of a second mag-mount cheaper down in my neck of the woods than a £60 Le Creuset Grillit pan. ;) ;)

Good idea - although the arrangement is actually multiple magnets in a circle so that you get alternating north and south poles.

Obviously if I was to do this then I would need to ensure the correct angular relationship between the two magnets, but that wouldn't be difficult, and, yes, I do think that I would probably end up with even more clamping force than with my Le Creuset keeper. One thought - the magnets would probably need to be on something like the same PCD too... Obviously it would be best to buy a 'matched pair'...

Anyone any good at welding cast iron? :hysterical:

The pan though, was destined for the scrap anyway - the thing is a dream to cook with, but an absolute SOAB to clean. I know I could have ebayed it but it really wasn't in good-enough condition for that.

If I can bring myself to spend yet another £10 on the toy I may get another magmount and give it a shot. Difficulty is though that I should get a matched pair and mine is a no-name ebay jobbie. Hopefully they all have eight magnets like mine. That nice young man a Maplins thinks I am mad already because I said that O rings wouldn't do because I wanted grommets :o He will think I have really flipped when I start rolling ball bearings around the underside of the magmounts :D

Rog

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Why not mount it in the centre of the bonnet?? That's what I've done with mine and I get quite good signal strength. As long as the aerial sticks out about the car, it should work well enough. Also, it saves fiddling with the already fragile roof lining!! You'll never get it back right!

The previous set-up on my blue RR was using a gutter mount - rubbish!! Same aerial, but couldn't get a good enough signal to pick up a transmission from about 200 yards away!

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Why not mount it in the centre of the bonnet?? That's what I've done with mine and I get quite good signal strength. As long as the aerial sticks out about the car, it should work well enough. Also, it saves fiddling with the already fragile roof lining!! You'll never get it back right!

The previous set-up on my blue RR was using a gutter mount - rubbish!! Same aerial, but couldn't get a good enough signal to pick up a transmission from about 200 yards away!

Roof-lining is already out for repairs to leaking sunroof gutter.

Gutter-mount seems commonly to be poor on RRC's; I think that the gutter is still aluminium so the likelihood of getting a lasting earth is minimal - also it is preferable that the aerial is somewhere near the centre of the groundplane rather than on one edge.

A bonnet magmount has a lot of merit and was my original plan. However I was never happy with (a) having half of the twig obscured from the rear. (B) the higher SWR I got on the bonnet than on the roof (possibly due to reflected signal from the windscreen heater elements and roof). and © having the wire draped over the bonnet to 'somewhere'.

Another thing was that I also didn't want to have the wire coming in through a window or like, so I have fitted a BNC panel mount socket at he rear centre just under the gutter. From here on the inside, I have RG58 behind trim all the way to the snatch-plate by the driver's right knee, and outside just a 3ft lead that goes forward to the magmount. This way if the aerial takes a serious hit then it will merely be swept form its (reasonably central) position, off the back of the car where it will dangle on the cable until it can be retrieved. The 3ft wire is long enough that it will clear the window glass by the way.

As for the roof-lining - I have a thought that I'd like opinion on. The current lining is some weird sort of cheapo glass-fibre or something with the floppy-saggy stuff glued on. Not being too much concerned with aesthetics, how about if I rip off all the floppy-saggy, pressure-wash off the remains of the foamy backing and then paint it? Anybody done this?

Rog

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I don't know if you checked this before taking the headlining out, but a leaking sunroof is often atributed to blocked drain hoses. Try sticking a (long) wire up the hose that sticks out in the rear wheel arches.

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Oo, they are really expensive as well! :ph34r:

I had an excellent mount on my Disco roof which swivelled as you went under trees etc so it protected the ariel and the vehicle. I did have to mount it through a hole in the roof but it was well worth it and quite a bit cheaper than the Le Creuset! :lol: ...even cheaper if you have a friend who works on the Argos lorries... ;):D always worked well and had the added advantage of making it look like a huge bumper car B)

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I don't know if you checked this before taking the headlining out, but a leaking sunroof is often atributed to blocked drain hoses. Try sticking a (long) wire up the hose that sticks out in the rear wheel arches.

Yeah I did check, but my sunroof 'gutters' are rusted right through at two of the corners. What a superbe piece of deign those hoses are eh? When I checked, mine were swinging around in 2" holes with a grommet and a few flakes of rust around them :( I reckon that Rover must have drilled the holes for them after painting...

Rog

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you cut up a very expensive pan to do what....... surely any old scrap bit of ferrous metal would have served the purpose!

shes going to flip at that.

i suppose you coudl claim one of the most expensive CB mounts ever.

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All that for a CB antenna, crikey, I've got 3 x ham radio, 1 x MSA radio, 1 x CB,normal in-car radio & telephone antenna on my 110's alloy roof 3 of these are on gutter mounts & don't have any ground plane or swr problems.

a mate tried a similar tiger seal job to hold a 6inch square of steel [not sure how thick it was] to the underside of his RRC 's roof & it failed after a few weeks.

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All that for a CB antenna, crikey, I've got 3 x ham radio, 1 x MSA radio, 1 x CB,normal in-car radio & telephone antenna on my 110's alloy roof 3 of these are on gutter mounts & don't have any ground plane or swr problems.

a mate tried a similar tiger seal job to hold a 6inch square of steel [not sure how thick it was] to the underside of his RRC 's roof & it failed after a few weeks.

guess I'll be doing something different then...

But don't worry about the pan - it was destined for the scrap anyway.

On mounting transmitter aerials on the 110 gutter and not having any SWR problems - care to say how you managed it? I'm open for suggestions...

Rog

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I put my CB mount on the back face of the the rear pillar. Kept the mount out of the way of trees and braches, but allowed the full length of the whip to stand proud of the roof.

Worked really well...

CBmount.jpg

Nice idea, and nice diagram!

However the deed is done now so I'm stuck with it as it is... I know that I shouldn't waste time chasing low SWR, but I just tried my setup and got 1.2~1.4. Really pleased with that... I tried to get a rig check too, but around here it appears to be all base stations with 100 watt output and big aerials.. Couldn't make myself heard. Ne'mind, I'm sure it's ok.

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