2"Lower Shock Turrets ( Homemade )

[tuko]

A few guys on the forum have been toying with the idea of getting more axle travel on the front, and locating cones. There are several different concepts floating around, so, here is mine....for thought.

Searching the internet, I found a similar design of front turrets ( 2" shorter ) that cost in the range of £45......hmm.... pretty sure I can build them for considerably cheaper.

As for the spring locating cones, I've read enough, to know that many are not pleased with the ungodly sound that comes from them when the spring are riding on them. So, I thought why not make it an open design, hopefully, there will little to no sound from them when the springs are relocating into the upper bracket.

The spring guide sits inside of the turrets base, reaching down 10cm around the shock.

The turret and cone is designed to be as one unit. With the shock installed, the whole thing fits in one go.

As you can see, there is plenty of room around the shock and the guide fits nicely into the hole in the springs upper mount.

It may appear to be a snug fit, but there is plent of room here.

Fits like a glove. Some more welding ( today was basically trial fit day ), then I'll power coat the unit. I've already made new brackets to lower the front brake lines. It will be adjustable, lowering 5 or 7 cm. This will be perfect time for me to replace the front hard brake lines, replace the brake fluid in the system, who knows when it was done last?

Well, this is my plan, anyways....

Todd.

[Guest diesel_jim]

when the axle drops down on full drop, the shock will move in towards the chassis as it follows the arc of the radius arm..... i see you stated that they are "snug, but with room", but you'd better check that there is enough room, especially with the extra 2" of droop available through the modified mounts you've made.

they look neat though. you going to make several sets for sale?

[landi41]

Jeepers that looks good Todd................. You are a pretty good engineer

Will you send me your old cones :)

[tuko]

Jim,

I thought that the shock would move in a forward/backward direction, due to the radium arms... got me thinking ....

But anyways, the upper portion of the shock is fixed in one place and it's the bottom portion that does the up & down thing. This section of the shock is clear of the spring guide. If I get any contact, I figure it'll be the piston shield portion of the shock, with the lower section of the guide.

Oh Dave,

I'm a pack rat, when it comes to Land Rover stuff.

Todd.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Tuko,

I've been at this now for some time..

I can see your logic, ie if I lowwer the shock mounts then I'll get extra droop, and the shock will still be ok for the upward movement....and you are right.

However, have you considered raising the shock mount ?

before you think I am completely mad heres my logic

If you did what you have done, then your using the std shock, and gaining droop, but if you fiotted a longer shock, say +2 then you won't need to drop the mount hieight....fit an even longer shock, and you'll get even more droop etc...

The balancing act is the really long shocks have longer bodies, so to compensate RAISE the turret.

This way you can get a huge increase in downward movement by fitting a much longer shock, upward is still ok but raise the tower so the shock doesn't implode on itself.....

So far my homemade MK11 turrets and very long shocks look like this :

You still have to get the jockey radius arms and axle to flex with the much much longer shocks, but thats another story.............

Just a thought, this way you'll have more than +2

Nige

[Doyley]

Nigel mate!

They look the Mutts Nuts! B)

I don't reckon you were born normally - I reckon you were fabricated somewhere!

(Out of 10mm stainless obviously!!!!!)

Mark

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Nigel mate!...They look the Mutts Nuts! B)

I don't reckon you were born normally - I reckon you were fabricated somewhere!

(Out of 10mm stainless obviously!!!!!)

Mark

ONLY 10 hours work

Now passivated yellow goldy colour and also have still to make new covers as the turrets poke a bit into the engine area !

Hoping to find some glav inner wing so I can use as a template to make up the "Hats" to cobver them"......still playing suspension mods, rear is about to get some more movemt over this :

If my (and trevss LR90) calcs are right should give another +2, oh and also am about to cut wheel boxes away to raise for opposite wheel to enter into rear loadspace....

Nige

[LandyManLuke]

definetly agree that raising the turrents is the way to gain more droop without losing compression, of course new shocks are another expense, though relatively little compared to keeping all that 10mm stock

what have you got planned for the rear? have seen tubular mounts that move the top mount right up into the corner of the wheel box.

tuko, like the spring locating cones, do they move much themselves? or do they sit pretty still?

Luke

[tuko]

Nige,

I know that your one of the pioneers of axle articulation, on this forum. Thanks for the info and pictures. I would go your route, but, I don't have the means to bend pipe so tight.

Remember the BS I went through, when I tried to bend pipe for the internal rollcage, with the (bow & arrow) type pipe bender I bought. Also, the shocks I have, are new. It would be a waste to remove them now, so, going this route, it's the cheaper alternative for me, at this time.

BTW, if I were to look around the scrappies or auto parts store, for longer shocks, which vehicle would have the same type of shock, as the landy ?

Luke,

The spring guides will be welded into place. The whole idea I have, is that it'll be all one unit.....less moving parts, ease of removal...etc.

Todd.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Todd,

Re scrappied, I don't think unless you are very very lucky you'll find anything siutable....its unfortunately cheque book time !

The things to bear in mind are

1. Pin Pin (Front)....not many do these, all the long and posh shock tend to have loops in the endm, they can be converted but you are then lengthening the shocker without gaining any travel.

2. Loop Pin (rear) as with the front, but unlike the front only 1 pin to convert

3. Body vs compressed length vs extended length. I have a wad of data on shockers, leaving aside points 1 & 2 the other thing to consider is that not all (for example) 25" fully extended shockers are equal, for instance you could have a 25" shock with 10" travel and other with 12" etc etc, this will affect the calculations and some shocks when you look at the loops on it and the body of the shock the overall length etc the travel is actaully quite poor.....

On mine I am now starting to cut up the wheel boxes, as the tyres are trying hard to come through, I hgave made up some attempts at "Guestimate" covers, once the hole is there I will be removing the spring and shoving the axle on full tilt (after I have made some modified rear mounts (mk 11 - mark 1s were a failure !) to see what needs to be removed.

Yours is a route which will add articulation and at a minimal price (esp if as you you make the mounts ! - nice welds BTW)...what plans have you (or have you done) for the rear ?

Nige

[tuko]

"Yours is a route which will add articulation and at a minimal price (esp if as you you make the mounts ! - nice welds BTW)...what plans have you (or have you done) for the rear ?"

Nige,

Thanks for the tips/info. I've found on the internet, where guys have used pin/loop shocks on the front of a defender. So, I think making the mounts wouldn't be so hard.

As for the rear, I have a problem there. The 265's catch on the side bars! The landy being a hybrid, where the suspension moves in an arch, the tires come in contact with the side bars on the upward travel. The side bars were made for a standard series 3, where the suspension moves up/down, thanks to the leafs.

I can cut a bit off the rear of the bars, but I'll be compromising the galvanizing, or I can "make" a new set. Still undecided........ BUT something will be done.

But anyways, I've already began making rear dislocating cones, that'll sit on the axle and the spring will be held in place at the top. (I got the idea from here, on the blue forum.) When they are finished, I'll post pic's.

Again, I found on the internet, 2 options for the rear suspension. 1. Lower the upper shock mount with plate or 2. raise the lower shock mount. I've already made a plate to lower the upper shock mount, but it hasn't been installed yet.

BUT after reading your posts Nige, I think that maybe going to longer shocks would the best route. Can a person simply change to 110 shocks, to gain extra travel? ....maybe too easy....

Todd.

[LR90]

Todd, if your looking for s/h long shocks only thing I'm aware of is G-Wagon fronts are a good alternative for Landie rears (and I guess front but you'll need to make a pin/eye converter for the bottom and probably a taller turret to compensate for the converter).

Nice to see some novel fab work though. Well done.

[Michele]

Adaptors not really an issue,DIY basic specs on OE some time ago.

As to dampers,my future choice probably?

Low cost adjustable,mmmmh!

B)

ProComp MX-6

Monotube gas, with six position externally adjustable damping, supplied with urethane bushes and a black shock boot. Available for standard and lifted Jeep models, many other US market vehicles plus 8", 10" & 12" travel versions for special applications. The latter are only supplied with mounting eyes at both ends. The MX-6 is available as an upgrade to the ES3000 or ES9000 series shock absorbers included in all our Jeep suspension systems - please enquire for kit prices

Price: £87.50

Source: EPC UK

WHat are these side bars in the end??

[tuko]

Michele

Here's what I'm talking about -->

The side bars extend too far into the wheel well cutout. When the 265's travel upward, they come in contact with the side bar.

Oddly enough, the 235's in the picture, do NOT come in contact with the bars.....

Todd.

[Michele]

(wheelbox?)

Sorry if there's a bar I can't see it clearly!

P.S.

Series on a coiler chassis?

[will_warne]

Nige, I'm starting to dribble again. However, I shouldn't be encouraging you until you've finished your KG2

p.s. If you get this much upwards travel then you'll need to make up new inner wings. When I tube the front end I'm going to do something a bit differant there.

Tuko, nice job. Its a really well thought out disign that pretty much anyone could do at home. However, I'm not a fan of disslocation and particularly lowered shockmounts; the only time you want more droop is when you get more upwards travel. If you take it to extremes you can end up with virtually no upwards travel and loads of droop (and there are systems that do this ). You then have issues with a CoG that raises as the suspension flexes (a VERY bad idea) and massive bump steer. That said, you do gain a little more travel quite cheaply by doing this sort of thing although you won't gain a huge ammount; a shock has a set stroke and by lowering the mount you may just be shifting shifting the proportion of upwards and downwards travel as opposed to gaining any extra articulation.

P.S. If you have to remove some of the galvinised steel that's fine, as long as there's an electrical connection (ie its part of the chassis) the zinc will do its job. Most steel hulled ships and oil rigs just have sacrificial lumps of zinc (anodes) that corrode instead of the stell hull (cathode).

[gelf]

these are the rear shock mounts on mine

it allows the use of much longer shox

and the front turets are 2" longer than standard.

not had chance to try it yet though.

[SiWhite]

Most steel hulled ships and oil rigs just have sacrificial lumps of zinc (anodes) that corrode instead of the stell hull (cathode).

So we could bolt a nice little sacrificia anode to a chassis from an outboard or similar and the chassis wouldn't rust?

I feel another X-Eng idea coming on!

PS Will you have a PM!

[chadler]

So we could bolt a nice little sacrificia anode to a chassis from an outboard or similar and the chassis wouldn't rust?

I feel another X-Eng idea coming on!

This idea comes around with frightening regularity, it was a particular favourite on the old place. It won't work, not unless your chassis is permanently immersed in salt water, which i hear isn't a fantastic idea.

[will_warne]

Ah yes, D'oh. That was stupid! Yes, you need an electrolyte so that the ions can flow and complete the circuit. That said, over short didstances (10mm or so) as whenever there is a flim of water over the surface you'll get protection. For example, my Southdown winch plate only has a very thin layer of surface rust where I removed the galvinising and it lives in terrible conditions.

[Turbocharger]

Nigel - not a criticism but a genuine question - have you considered the damping rate of your new shocks, or are you just going for max articulation? If you fit springs such that the vehicle will sit on the bump stops statically there's no 'reserve' if you hit a cross axle at any speed at all offroad - the same's true of the dampers.

[LR90]

Nigel - not a criticism but a genuine question - have you considered the damping rate of your new shocks, or are you just going for max articulation? If you fit springs such that the vehicle will sit on the bump stops statically there's no 'reserve' if you hit a cross axle at any speed at all offroad - the same's true of the dampers.

You're quite right but its a whole new dimension. There was a guy on P4x4 I think changing rates and using accellerometers or some such to record the profile of different dampers when dropping the truck off a ledge. Ie from fully comressesed, to free fall, to impact

When you start doing this the suitable dampers you can revalve get far more expensive than ProComps. So idea is sort out the basics using cheapo dampers and then you can bin these later when you want to move to the next dimension but at least you have a reference point.

Of course if you want a fast off road truck then articulation probably isn't top of you list anyway.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Trev,

You beat me to it !

Actaully the ride is pretty good as is, but when I am happy with mods I know a man locally that builds Shockers (and his prices are too - shockingly expebnsiove) should I feel the need, actaully I have been impressed with them so far.

Nige

[LR90]

Trev,

You beat me to it !

Actaully the ride is pretty good as is, but when I am happy with mods I know a man locally that builds Shockers (and his prices are too - shockingly expebnsiove) should I feel the need, actaully I have been impressed with them so far.

Nige

Must admit I've been well chuffed with the ProComp's.

And overall the springing on the truck is not much softer, but with bigger gaps under the bumpstops, than fitted to those 90/110's the MOD drop fully laden out of the air.

[tuko]

Just a dumb question,

If a person simply went out a bought a set (4) 2" longer shocks, installed them, without any further modifications, would they would get the same effect ? more axle articulation?

Here in Sweden, I could/can buy (4) 2"longer shocks for £326 plus shipping.......highway robbery.....this is why I'm try this route first.

Todd.