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front arb wiring


yella 90

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just wire them individually, can't see why it can't be done, although most other vehicles with front/rear lockers have the rear in first then the front on as as needed basis, using the front on it's own will affect the steering when it's locked in

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grr ok mike wins :lol:

its to do with launching and recovering the boat....were now trying to source a new section of the front screen :o:o

now, pretty much most of the time only the front wheels are on the slip...plan is, lock the front up with no center diff and rely on front wheels traction for the 1st 90 inches :lol:

then after that its ok

its for no benifit for offroad as the front hardly gets used and when it does both are locked

its pretty much a trial or error if it works it saves glass if it dont then time to get rid of the simex for on the beach :huh:

there mike..happy now :lol:

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Throw away the ARB loom and make your own, much simpler, no gay fiddly switches that dont like being jet washed, and you can make it do what you want

Its only electrickery at the end of the day

I thought you were "the brains"? :rolleyes:

Lewis

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I also have been wanting to wire up my ARB's so i can lock up the front on its own, just not got round to it yet.

Why ? Cos i want to see if i can power slide the front end round on mud/rock when i dont have enough space to swing the front end round. (Centre diff out,hand brake up front locker in, should do the trick in theory)

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I also have been wanting to wire up my ARB's so i can lock up the front on its own, just not got round to it yet.

Why ? Cos i want to see if i can power slide the front end round on mud/rock when i dont have enough space to swing the front end round. (Centre diff out,hand brake up front locker in, should do the trick in theory)

Get yourself some fiddles they skid round a treat :lol:

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From Pirate4x4:

The most common method is as follows: Unplug the yellow wire going into the centre terminal of switch #2. Run a tee from the red wire feeding into the centre terminal of switch #1 into the centre terminal of switch #2. Now when you engage the compressor switch you arm both switch #1 and switch #2.

Alternatively, you can:

Tee two wires into the red/yellow wire feeding power into the centre terminal of the compressor switch. Unplug the yellow wire from the centre terminal of switch #2. Unplug the red wire from the centre terminal of switch #1. Plug the two new wires, one each into the centre terminals of switch #1 and switch #2. Now, when you turn on your ignition all three switches run independently. This can be useful if you run a lot of water and mud as you can engage your lockers, shut off your compressor, and then charge through that deep mud hole without worrying about your compressor turning on under water.

Copyright 2005 - BillaVista Offroad Tech

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western its a beach thats mainly rocks, no sand so lowering wont work and also itll bend the jockey wheel

also id like to keep the boat attached to vehical after all it isnt a cheap boat :rolleyes: 15k mark :rolleyes:

like i said, u need to be there to understand it :rolleyes:

chears tony, thats a real help :)

dan

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OK, didn't know you were working off a rocky beach, Tony seems to have got you sorted.

s'ok mmy friend, i should have explaind the situation better,

its mainly at high water that i have a arse of a time getting off due to the front being on a concret slip up onto the field and the rear being on a rocky base mixed in with shingle aswel to add fun :rolleyes:

what i want to do is basicaly just for that occasion is to in effect just to become front wheel drive ( if you get me )

as the rear end just sends shingle straight up into the wheelhouse

too low rpm and it dont want go anywhere :o

its dragging 1.5t with bloody pram tyres onits trailers over a soft surface

ands its a nightmare

i try to recover at low water now, but its dunking me 90 into saltwater way over the axles and sum 100 yards away from the shore line :unsure:

this is my prediciment

;)

dan

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nope :o

luckly there are two big posts to winch off when things go wrong and by time u get into the 90 to attemps to get off the soft sand whilst under water its sank to its axles :lol::o

its a mixed beach, have more fun there than at offroad sites :D

dan :)

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what i want to do is basicaly just for that occasion is to in effect just to become front wheel drive ( if you get me )

as the rear end just sends shingle straight up into the wheelhouse

This isn't really going to be possible, even if the front locker is in. If the center diff is unlocked then one of the rear wheels will spin if it has less traction, if the rear is locked as well then both rear wheels will spin (again if it has less traction than the front axle). Lock the center diff and the both front wheels will pull but at least one of the rears will still turn.

Only way to stop it would be to put the handbrake on, center diff out and front locker in, but the rear wheels would probably then create more drag then rather than helping to drive the fronts. How about mounting a big sheet of cardboard/perspex/etc. on the front of the trailer to shield the stones path from wheels to windows?

Richard

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Have you tried both lockers but no diff-lock? This will prevent one rear wheel from spinning on its own and because there is more weight on the rear axle (combination of trailer and up-slope) the front will be more likely to spin, thus reducing the risk of pebbles being thrown towards the boat.

I noticed this effect when on a steep slope the diff-lock jumped out. The front wheels dug in but bystanders told me the rear were hardly moving (they thought I had broken a halfshaft or cardan).

HTH

Filip

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concret slip at the bottom is flat

ive tried everything apart from trying just front wheel drive

and the landy doesnt flinch when the boat is added, its only 30 kg on the nose :huh: got it nicely balanced also helps being a twin axle

like i say u need see it to understand, its just wierd :lol:

i get further with the diffs unlocked than locked :blink:

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