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Reinforcing a clutch fork


Les Henson
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This type of fork is the same for 2.5 N/A and TD engines, 200 and 300TDi as well. The thin metal construction of the fork and the inability to lubricate it means that the pivot point quickly wears away, causing it to fail - sometimes within just a few thousand miles. The fork can be reinforced by welding a plate over the weak spot - thus extending it's normal life considerably. The steel I have used in this thread is 2.5mm - you can use thicker, but it gets harder to shape the thicker it gets, and other parts of it are likely to fail before it wears through.

The plate is 40mm long, 34mm wide at one end, and 26mm wide at the other.

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Put a curve in it like this.

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The new fork may be bare metal or primed, clean around the pivot point.

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Place the new fork in a vice and position the plate like this.

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And weld.

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Wide end next - you will probably have to tap it down until it's in contact with the metal.

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Again, weld.

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The sides next - these need to be hammered down until they are close to the sides of the fork, and then weld each one in turn.

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Once all sides are done, allow to cool, clean up with a wire brush and then a coat of paint in your fave colour :lol:

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Les.

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Nice job Les. I have never seen it done first hand, but apparently folks here used to use one of the bits out of an old drop arm ball joint kit (I think it's the bit that the actual ball of the joint sits in) and weld that over the back of the ball as apparently it's about the right shape.

Are you going to post details on the new Extreme Laning forum? :ph34r:

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  • 2 years later...

@bobtail4x4.....thats worse than my welding :rolleyes:

I've be practicing...so much so that my right knee has UV burn. Serves me right for doing it in shorts. I'm now wearing long trousers. I've changed gas to a mix and its amazing how much difference it makes especially on 1mm.

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i used a big washer to reinforce mine. not pictures i'm afraid and i aint taking the gearbox off to get one.

I was just about to post saying that's how I did mine too. The washer was about 3mm thick and didn't need any deforming at all, just weld round the inside & outside.

Si

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