Gromit Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Supposing I wanted to take down a few concrete block walls. I had an idea that I could get a chain or wire rope looped through holes in the bottom of the wall, give it a gentle tug with the 110, and pull the bottom out from under the wall and voila; wall in a heap on the ground and me and my truck still in one piece Is this a good idea? (Famous last words there) My main concern would be having a non-stretchy rope/chain, so that when the whole lot let go, I wouldn't have large chunks of rope and concrete coming in the back window to say hello. Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Might work, though I would give it a few good smacks with a sledgehammer first to crack the cement. I'd also check whether anything important or expensive was in the way if the wall keeled over and fell down as a complete slab as you might feel like a pillock if you were collecting the blocks from the inside of where your greenhouse used to be etc I pulled out concreted in fence posts with a chain and my old red 90 but I wouldn't try it with one with a Td5 chassis. Basically 1st low range drive off with the post short coupled to the tow hitch such that the chain went down at about 45 deg, come off the clutch just before the rear suspension bottomed out and let the vehicle roll back, do it again half a dozen times and the post was out, much easier than digging but needs a strong tow point obviously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Very dangerous, I would not suggest that anyone do it. I would do it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 drive off with the post short coupled to the tow hitch such that the chain went down at about 45 deg Might have a few posts to do too. Is the 45 degrees is to pull up as well as over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I saw a pikey try this with a Transit once - he repeatedly reversed into an old brick wall to try and save himself some time and work with a sledge hammer. The wall stayed up, but the rear of his van was totalled - what an idiot. Weakening the wall across a cement line as suggested by Bogmonster would a wise thing to do first. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Might have a few posts to do too. Is the 45 degrees is to pull up as well as over? Partly to pull up and partly to put some weight transfer onto the rear wheels which equals more grip The key is not to overdo it though. Oh and if it is a long post mind the back window... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 On a similar but opposite note, last weekend my dear father had screwed six railway sleepers together and wanted to stand them on end. TroddenMasses winched them to 'nearly upright' but found that the winch hook met the snatch block when they were at 89degrees, so I used the back of my Ninety to 'gently support' them while he sent my brother up a tree re-rigged. As Chris says, I wouldn't generically advocate LR panels as pushers or bludgeoners, but it does get the job done. If it was a suitable wall I'd be tempted to gently nudge it over with the rear crossmember, but I do mean 'gently' and 'nudge'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 The wall stayed up, but the rear of his van was totalled - what an idiot. What, because he had to go to the hassle of stealing another one! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 On a similar but opposite note, last weekend my dear father had screwed six railway sleepers together and wanted to stand them on end. TroddenMasses winched them to 'nearly upright' but found that the winch hook met the snatch block when they were at 89degrees, so I used the back of my Ninety to 'gently support' them while he sent my brother up a tree re-rigged. Does your father make a habit of creating garden sculptures composed of railway sleepers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 If its just a single brick/lock wall i would use a sledge hammer tbh i think by the time you've faffed about with rope ect you could have it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 If its just a single brick/lock wall i would use a sledge hammer That's just too much like hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troddenmasses Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Does your father make a habit of creating garden sculptures composed of railway sleepers? Nope - it was a backstop for the rifle range that we are building in his back garden. There will be a lot of earth packed around them, but they are the starting point. The winch on the landy proved really useful, the whole lot must have weighed in at a couple of tonnes. I was lifting it with the winch, and controlling it with a KERR attached to the bottom. Driving closer / further away made the bottom move, and winching in and out moved the top part. It worked like a dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Well, this one's a backstop so next door's cattle don't get too shot, but he also has a stone Bickhenge patio area which aligns with sunrise on the equinox or somesuch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I tractor pulled a few leylandi stumps out with my Disco once.... ...needed a new UJ on the front propshaft not long after It was worth it though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 This is so valuable, it should be in the technical archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 This is so valuable, it should be in the technical archive. Not every single thread on the forum has to be worthy of the tech archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoatBuoy Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Hmmmm.... seen chains break doing this. I'm of the go and rent a mini digger from hss camp. Safety first, safety second and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Brick walls are not strong under side-loads, a sledgehammer is probably less work and less risk to people & vehicles. Alternative is to buy a scrap Volvo estate and reverse through the wall - cut the roof off first and you've got a ready made skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 The sledge hammer is the right way, but the vehicle way will be far more impressive whatever happens. Don't forget to set the video camera up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 I can see a Darwin Award coming on.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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