Jump to content

I appear to have gotten a freelander... err, help!


FridgeFreezer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Long story short I am now the slightly bemused owner of a 1998 1.8 3-door softback, which looks like it may replace the RR as a daily driver.

It's been stood for 2 years and the fuel pump has seized up (blows fuse), so the first question is where's the best place to get one cheap, can I use one from another car or such like or are genuine ones cheap enough?

I have had a lengthy chat with Jules who has increased my FL knowledge by about 1000% (thanks Jules, top bloke!), so I think I've got most of the basics in my head. Originally I'd planned to flog it quick to buy a set of tyres for the 109, but Jules has 99% persuaded me that not only will I struggle to sell it for decent money (being a less popular 1.8 needing a bit of work), but that FL's are less pricey to run than I had assumed.

I'll ramble on about the car anyway:

It's had a new engine not so long ago (before it was laid up, it was a company car). The soft-top doesn't close on one side, I'm not really sure if it's fixable or if a replacement is in order.

Apart from that, it's clean-ish and straight, the previous custodian says it needed something to do with a diff that would cost lots of money, but has no idea what (they know as much about cars than I do about flower arranging) so it could be a new IRD or such, or it could be the rear bushes clonking as they (apparently) do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be IRD, could be a new diff/bushes, could be the viscous coupling. Take the prop off and use it in 2WD :) they are 2WD most of the time anyway...

I would also blag a hard top from somewhere (breakers yard etc) as I am pretty sure they are a straight swap.

May be worth trying Bearmach/Britpart for a non genuine fuel pump, not sure if they are cheaper but as Jon says the gen-u-whine ones are F expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got overtaken by replies there, what I meant is:

Lewis - you lovely chappy, can I say "dibs" on the IRD but wait until I've got the thing running to check if it actually needs it

Jon - Wallet says no :rolleyes: , besides the whole DLander thing is sooo last year now ;)

Jules - Cheers mate, I'll give you a bell Saturday when I've got the pump

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul, that seems to be an early problem and not too difficult to remedy:

More recently, Land Rover have released a reinforced MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) head gasket for the K-Series engines, which until mid-2005 were fitted to the 1800cc petrol variants of their Freelander model. A modified oil rail was also developed to be used in conjunction with the gasket to improve block stiffness. Time will tell as to whether the improved design will cure this fault of the K-Series engine, but many professionals and enthusiasts now recommend this new design over the standard gasket as fitted by MG-Rover. To date, the results appear to be good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just discovered the MG ZT-T had a turbo'd 1.8 K-series fitted... street sleeper anyone? :o

Dont bother, if you're gonna mess with it then just use a T series turbo engine, the bottom end is good for a reliable 400bhp. A colleage built one with an 8 injector setup and hydrid turbo, he saw 550bhp at the wheels on the dyno

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lewis - does the T bolt in place of the K then?

Thanks to a bit of help from Jules, I slung a new battery in and we changed the fuel pump and it sprang into life this afternoon. Alternator had seized solid, but WD40 and a socket on a breaker bar unstuck it and it doesn't seem to have suffered for it. The top end is a bit tappetty, but then the oil has seen better days and will be changed. The fuel is well stale, a tank of "ultimate" or such like will be first stop to try to clean it through.

Jules spotted a few bits:

First off, it seems to be running without anti-freeze, which is less than ideal on an engine famous for cooling issues :rolleyes: some proper coolant will be purchased & stuck in ASAP.

At some time the driver's door has had a ding and the side of the car has been sprayed, but it's not really noticeable (and I don't care :P )

It doesn't have ABS, which Jules reckons makes my life easier and cheaper - I'll not be off-roading it so the loss of HDC/ETC is not a worry.

The diff problem the previous owner alluded to could be a bush, there is a chalk mark pointing to it which suggests a mechanic has marked it for attention.

Apart from that, it needs a sidelight and stoplight bulb and it's about ready for an MOT (after a thrash round the block to clear the stale fuel & the rust off the discs).

Only other thing is I need a roof - either soft or hardtop, not fussy, so if anyone's got one they want to part with please PM or e-mail me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember the drive train is only good for 200bhp as my dakar was 200+ and I kept braking stuff like CV, shafts, IRD's and not to mention turbo hoses.

Vik's one is 140bhp and goes like stink and you have to be really pushing it to break stuff

if you want some fun put some small rally tyres then they really go..

A 1.8 only weighs 1400kg wringing wet

John's freebie is nice clean little truck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy