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Stretching


Les Brock
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Given that I can't face loosing/selling the Hybrid and I want that auto (eventually)

so to stretch it then !

Whats the best way to put the 12 inches back in that I cut out 5 years ago :unsure:

taking it out was one weld to put back together, putting it in is 2,

and the join I did was sleeve welded, then butted together and welded, then ground back and 6mm diamond plates welded over that on all 4 sides....did'nt want it to crack :lol:

So how the best way to cut and add keeping everything in line

then do I shorten a 110 tub or tray back it ????

suggestions

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It sounds like you shortened it in the best way possible - with the diamond plates.

I would suggest the same procedure, except make a sleeve with triangular ends (half the diamond plates). The sleeve fits over the chassis (so is slightly bigger). This gives you a nice strong bit in the middle with the maximum area of weld as before.

To keep it square, you just need to make up a simple jig which bolts on to two convenient points on either side of the chassis. The holes in the jig give the correct spacing for the length you want to add and by bolting it and clampint the chassis rails to the jig it keeps it square in all axis.

50-60mm angle should be strong enough for the jig. You can make sure the jig is absolutly square before you start (easier as it's smaller). When you are welding it tack it together alternating the positions of the tacks so any pull in the weld will tend to cancel out.

Si

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Dolly...

Can I call you that :blink:

The trouble with that is I would need to weld all new outriggers/body mounts/rear crossmember and chassis legs/roll cage mounts etc etc

as well as a total strip down and rebuild.....outside on the drive....errrr....NO !

hence the strech theory just the rear tub/chassis/rear cage stays to do....then worry about the auto ;)

here's another ?

as it's now a 88 inch that was 100 inch rangie chassis that was done 5 years ago, if I change it back to a 100 inch would that need a SVA or am I in a very odd position :ph34r::ph34r:

if so I might just as well forget it and drive till it falls to bits :lol:

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Cheat then,

cut the mid section out of the 88 and fit a mid from a 100" - done in an afternoon. if you want the inner box C sections (so you can puddle weld it back up) just let me know how long you want them. its the way lorry chassis have been stretched since time began - dont see many of them snapping.

Personally (IMHO) I think diamond patches on the outside of chassis suck, look messy and dont contribute a heap of strength.

*dons tin hat*

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SVA it? why on earth would you want to do that :)

nothing major will have changed.

did you keep the bits you cut out?

Can you get 1/2 chassis? you could then just weld in half a Disco/rangie one keeping the Welds to 2 rather than 4

Edited by white90
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Les,

Give Adrian a shout - he has a spare auto box kicking around.. that way you can just change that instead - assuming it works like that on your vehicle..

Ps- - post up those pics would you of you and me being stuck at slab, I would like to see what it looked like once more.. cheers. no one at work believes me when I tell them we were stuck for approx 4 hours in one hole. :lol:

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Is there any particular reason to go for 100" Les? You'll probably need new props etc. anyway, so why not make it something a little more unusual so you don't get stuck in the same holes that everyone else does? 97" or 103" seems like a good idea to me (admittedly after very little thought!)

I'd go for a trayback with boxes to keep your stuff in, as there's less panels to damage that way :lol:

Richard

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Les, I'm going to suggest a differant method. Why stretch in the middle not cut off the rear and sretch there? That way you get a nice flat chassis to mount the tray on, a higher rear cross member (so better departure angle), longer radius arms straight off and there's less bodywork to remover to do the stretch. Its how I plan to do mine. I've not thought about the fine details yet but I'll probably work through those as I'm building. The plan at the moment is to start next spring with 6 months to a year of fabrication before the rebuild. The other bonus is you can build your rear chassis and tray before you start to strip the vehicle meaning less down time. The other thing I'd say is you may want to do more cage mods; you really want the stays coming down to the rear cross member.

P.S. Jez's suggestion of using C sections, puddle welded is the best method to actually add the chassis IMHO.

P.P.S. SVA is a grey area, however 12" is more noticable than 7" :ph34r:

P.P.P.S Deffinatly trayback, it'll look very smart.

Edited by will_warne
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P.P.P.S Deffinatly trayback, it'll look very smart.

Got any pics of smart traybacks Will? I like the idea but not sure they really look quite right with a 90, makes it all look rather front end heavy in my mind like those 90's fitted with a 5th wheel.

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Erm, the only piccys I've got are some muck about things I've done to give me an idea of what mine'll look like (very very approximatly, though). I think it looks quite nice. Remember the tray will have to be a good 6" higher than the top of the wheelboxes....

traybackplay3.jpg

Edited by will_warne
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I Like the artists impressions though neither makes me want to rush out anD put a hacksaw to the 90.

I wondered if it might look better if one started with a lightweight? The more angular front better matching the back (and lift off doors for challenge events into the bargain).

So rather than looking for a hicap rear bulkhead for the 90 I'm wondering how simple would it be to do a body swap or better still put a lwt body on my disco chassis when the current body gets beyond economical patching.

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I Like the artists impressions though neither makes me want to rush out anD put a hacksaw to the 90.

I wondered if it might look better if one started with a lightweight? The more angular front better matching the back (and lift off doors for challenge events into the bargain).

So rather than looking for a hicap rear bulkhead for the 90 I'm wondering how simple would it be to do a body swap or better still put a lwt body on my disco chassis when the current body gets beyond economical patching.

Trev, I know where you can find a lightweight.... [hint: look in sig...]

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Lots of Tray back pics on Outer limits and D44 gallery and they all look crud IMHO.

untitled.JPG:)

only missing sacks of coal to complete the picture.

Siwhites/JST both are a better option storage and less panels to damage.

What's the advantage of Tray Back? I'm intrested to know, I guess less poss panel damage anything else?

but how much panel damage have you done with a 90? I can sort of understand with a Rangie as Nick has bash his a fair few times due to the width.

Edited by white90
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Tony, I decided on trayback for a couple of reasons: less weight, less chance of damage, easier to get at kit and I start with a blank sheet so I can put things exactly where I want them. Some of the ones I've seen don't look too nice but I've got some slightly differant ideas about how to do it. If, in the end, it doesn't look right when I start to build it then I'll just use a normal backbody...

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