BogMonster Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 What Les & Nige said ^^^ I wouldn't drive that on a road I am afraid. Not even here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 i will try to put better pics on .the u bolts i will get some proper ones from paddocks .thank for the concern. as iv said i bort this landy like this and i wont t get this trackrodbar sorted . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 i will try to put better pics on .the u bolts i will get some proper ones from paddocks .thank for the concern. as iv said i bort this landy like this and i wont t get this trackrodbar sorted . Sorted pretty damned quick too I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 as you cam see by one of the the photos that i carnt put a straight bar on . iv been thinkin ov boltin the bar from underneth instead ov boltin from the top .i should av clearance from the spring but i will lose ground clerance.do you think that will sort it out.thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 as you cam see by one of the the photos that i carnt put a straight bar on . iv been thinkin ov boltin the bar from underneth instead ov boltin from the top .i should av clearance from the spring but i will lose ground clerance.do you think that will sort it out.thanks The track-rod ends and the holes they fit into are tapered so they will only fit one way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 as you cam see by one of the the photos that i carnt put a straight bar on . iv been thinkin ov boltin the bar from underneth instead ov boltin from the top .i should av clearance from the spring but i will lose ground clerance.do you think that will sort it out.thanks The problem you have here is that its not just the track rod that is the problem. The track rod is simply the symptom. Take a piccy that will show us what angle the diff is currently sat at, but in short, the problem appears to be that whoever did this conversion welded the spring mounts onto the axle at the wrong angle. At the very least you will need to remove the axle, cut the mounts off and re-weld them on at a better angle, but you need to be careful not to rotate the axle too far as it'll remove the self centreing ability of the steering, which in itself is dangerous. However you may also need to pack the axle tube up, away from the leaf springs to gain sufficient clearance. What you have there at the moment can only be described as dangerous! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 "Take a piccy that will show us what angle the diff is currently sat at" Probably the best way of doing this is to jack under the RH spring, just high enough to remove the drivers side wheel. Now take a side view of the differential housing, the view that would normally be blocked by the wheel. Include the ground in the picture. What the guys are looking for is whether the nose of the differential (where the propshaft attaches) is pointing at the ground, or up at the gearbox. Lifted as described the axle will be near enough normal ride height. It might be also be useful, if you have the kit, to lift the chassis high enough for both front wheels to leave the ground. The stands will be under the chassis, with the axle hanging as far down as possible. Take another side view of the differential housing through the view normally blocked by the wheel. Again, include some horizontal reference if you can, so they can make a judgement of the angle the diff is currently sat at. Hope This Helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojmz Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 where the track rod attaches to the swivel housings looks far too angled down to me compared to what memory serves it should be. if it transpires that the diff angle isnt that far off, i would say it is perfectly conceivable that the swivel/hub assemblies have been bolted onto the axle tubes one hole too far round looking at that caster angle, it must be frightfully heavy on the steering anyway, definitely not helped by 'components' like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 thanks mate iv been studerin about tryin to do that. has anybody dun it .is it easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Okay. Here's the kind of angle your looking for (and if anything it should be about 3 degrees steeper as this pic is with extended shackles) If my memory is corrent, you want the diff to be angled 10 degrees above horizontal to give you a standard castor angle of 3 degrees If you diff has been set at horizontal that would give you a castor of 13 degrees . I have run with 6 degrees and i thought that was bad enough Before any one says it, i know my shocks are the wrong way up with that angle your track rod would clip the leaf springs. With 20mm plus blocks ( or increased saddle height as i did) you will have this clearance. Note im using a solid track rod that is 30mm diameter, where as a standard rangie/disco is about 22mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 As requested the standard trackrod (above) and shortened 101 (lower): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 cheers .your pics are a great help.i think my shackles are standed .this my sound daft but as any body rotated the swivel housing .and is it easy to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 here are somemore pic s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 some more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 The diff nose angle looks ok to me. You have an extended saddle under the spring seat - this is done so that the link rod goes over the top of the springs, but they have been altered to still pass underneath them. If you look at the last picture - the rod is almost high enough to clear over the top of the springs. If the saddle was a bit deeper it would do so and a normal straight rod would fit. You only need another 15mm on the saddle by the looks of it. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 check that the n/s swivel hasn't been bolted on one hole out which will rotate it. the person who done this work should be shot...................twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 im going to start work on it this weekend .so i will let all you guys how i get on.if i get any problems i will be back on here , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Oh i found these after i had had my track rod altered. Would have been a cheaper option. http://82.0.157.13/jrfabs/images/shopimages/IMAG0044.JPG The only advantage of the 101 track rod is that the ends are rebuildable with rangie/def power steering ball joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 That picture is about the size of a postage stamp with a picture of a bent cocktail stick on it Couldn't you 'do a reads90' and make it bigger than Australia? I'm putting Defender axles on a superior leafer , so ideas are what I need. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 That picture is about the size of a postage stamp with a picture of a bent cocktail stick on it Couldn't you 'do a reads90' and make it bigger than Australia? I'm putting Defender axles on a superior leafer , so ideas are what I need. Les. "superior leafer" i hear that The best i can do is link to the companies shop http://82.0.157.13/jrfabs/shop.htm and this distorted mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 here are some pics .iv turnde the swivel housin one bolt forward but it is now in the middle ov the diff/but the holes dont match up/iv dun this on the o/s.cud i put some 20mm plate under the springs that axle that shud give me clearance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Put the swivel in the position it's supposed to be in, lay the link rod (a normal one), on the springs and measure how much it is out, then add 5-10mm. Put a spacer plate between the bottom of the axle and the top of the spring to get the gap you need. Bear in mind that there's a locating peg into the axle case, and you will have to duplicate it to prevent the axle from moving forwards or backwards. This is assuming you want the link rod on top of the springs. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorlv1 Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 iv got two 28mm block plates from work im going to try them to see wot space iv got . will let u no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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