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They are for my defender. I had to split one of my TREs at the weekend to adjust the swivel as it was vibrating a good'un, when i tryed to do the TRE up the thread just spins so ive ordered some HD arms now.

When fitting do i just measure TRE to TRE and adjust the new track rod to the same leagnth?

Dave.

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When fitting do i just measure TRE to TRE and adjust the new track rod to the same leagnth?

Yep that's what I did to get it close, then bit more fine tuning with some string :D (I love LRs)

Then took it to a tyre place to have it checked.....it was <quote> "bang on mate!" and watch the tyre fitters reaction when I told them I'd done it with string :o

:P:P

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You may find that the TREs vary in size. My greasable ones were considerably larger than the standard ones. This is a good thing, but it means that by measuring end of TRE to end of TRE your set-up won't be right.

Instead, measure from the centre of the flat base of the TRE (opposite the threaded bit) on each and make this the same.

Fine tuning can be done with string round all 4 wheels/tyres, but I found it didn't help as my tyres are quite bulgy.

Remember, turn the steering from lock to lock after adjusting...

HTH

Adrian

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The way i did was jack up the front wheels, then there's no thightness and it adjusts feely. When you're looking for a tyre place, have a ring around first because the new tracking gear won't fit around "large" tyres <_< and you'll need to find somewhere with the old drive-on-pad type. :rolleyes:

Remember to cooper sick the threads too, you'll be thankful if you have to take it off again.

have fun :)

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I recently fitted a pair of solid steering rods to a 300TDi CSW and the front link rod was quite a bit shorter than the old one. As Orange says - a lot of TRE thread is left sticking out. It gives you the impression that there's not a great deal of thread left inside (I unscrewed the TRE to see how much was left inside). The TRE's came with the rods and were the greasable type though.

Les.

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Has anyone here ever actually bent a front steering arm before? Apart from when they have not have not had a steering guard fitted and have wacked itona rock...

Yes I've seen them bent both with and without steering guard. Mostly on trees and stumps not rocks.

There's also a clue in the fact that most people supply the Heavy Duty set in pairs.

I really don't understand all this chat about whether to fit them or not. Anyone doing some serious off roading should fit HD bars, Diff guards, Fuel Tank Guard and Side bars. For ~90 pounds a set I don't see why anyone would not fit HD bars.

Cheers

Steve

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Has anyone here ever actually bent a front steering arm before? Apart from when they have not have not had a steering guard fitted and have wacked itona rock...

I wondered the very same thing. looks like it will be a lot easyer to bend on full lock.

Dave.

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All 90/110's have that bracket, take it off & stuff it in the garage/shed out of the way, if the steering rod gets bent that bracket just makes things worse. took mine off years ago.

they do all have them and the MOD ones did as well from what i remember stops it bending too far.

I keep mine on and since changing to QT bars with decent greaseable TRE i fitted a Southdown HD retainer bar, i dont think i would be without one - Ralph obviously doesn't use his what about everyone else?

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Between Kris and I we bent 3 HD track rods and two HD drag links on the TFC. We now both run HD bars still but with a Gwyn lewis track rod guard. Brilliant bit of kit that allows you to treat tree stumps and rocks like they are not there

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Between Kris and I we bent 3 HD track rods and two HD drag links on the TFC. We now both run HD bars still but with a Gwyn lewis track rod guard. Brilliant bit of kit that allows you to treat tree stumps and rocks like they are not there

Got any pics of the Track rod guard Steve, sounds interesting?

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i dont think i would be without one - Ralph obviously doesn't use his what about everyone else?

Dave, Project Blue, does as his sheared off when he sat it on a stump at the DD Winch Challenge on Saturday. Maybe he'll post a pic.

Cheers

Steve

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hi

cant get my old TREs off the tie rod of the 109 (plenty of soaking in oil, and me hanging off a huge breaker bar, all it was doing was twisting the rod!), any issues with just making another? i have a friendly machine shop available, they aren't supposed to be toughened or anything are they? I was thinking of getting them to just cut the threads into a suitable size piece of gas pipe, any issues with this?

Ta

Mike

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No pic's of it on the truck but I'll get some. Here it is on Gwyns site, http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page29.html

If your worried about it giving less ground clearance then dont, They are tucked up very neatly and probably hang down less than half an inch lower than the track rod. Unless you stick your head right under the axle you cant even see it from the front.

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Mike, I had this trouble with the front rod the other day. In the end I got a good old hammer and chissel, lots of oil and a vice. I put the chissel in the little gap (or at least where the gap was ment to be) at the end of the rod where the TRE screws in. With a few taps it started to open. I did this all along its length on both side and then with a little effort the TRE started to be able to be unscrewed (still with a bar)

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Another vote for the Gwyn Lewis guard + Sumo bar. Mine does a great job and only looses minimal clearance. I used to bend trackrods regularly before, essential if you're crashing about in the woods :lol:

Not compatible with a QT style guard though (i cut & welded the two together to get round this)

Can't remember the exact amount but Gywn's stuff is very reasonably priced.

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I have the Britpart bars on my RRC

The steering damper fits in the std position by means of a clamp arrangement in a groove to stop it sliding along the bar.

Not bent one since fitting, so well pleased.

I had one of the bar catchers on the diff nose with the standard bar, and still bent the track rod, though at least the vehicle was still drivable, as it was only when I got home and cleaned the motor off I spotted the bent bar.

I'm with the other guys on welding steering components. Don't take the chance.

If you have straightened a TRE I would ditch that as well, it just isn't worth the risk.

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