TheBeastie Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Oh, but it was going so well and I am now at the 100% committed stage since original battery box (25% air, 25% water, 49% rust and 1% metal) became mangeled on removal and I have fitted the YRM battery box and got it all nicely settled and painted up. Today I have taken time out of my work to finish off since I need to get it mobile fast and got almost all the wiring bits put together and then put battery number 2 in just to get a better feel for the space. In terms of floor area I am delighted and it looks good, but in terms of vertical space I would appear to be completely shagged. I had opted for the stud battery clamps since it seems much more secure for the multiple connections coming from the batteries but these look as if they sit about 20mm proud of the lip of the seatbox I am not sure what to do. Should I go out and buy new smaller batteries - ouch - or could I cut holes in the battery box cover, and then create sort of egg box protrusions using camping mat and insulating tape? If it has to be the former then so be it but it would be a shame since my battery number 1 is really quite new. I confess I had not thought this far ahead and am now a bit scunnered since everything else has gone quite smoothly other than leaving a chunk of finger on a bit of seatbox that was sharper than I thought. Any thoughts would really be very helpful since stuck is a place I cannot currently afford to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Twig Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Can't you cut down the bolts? Or is that a really stupid suggestion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 No, not a stupid suggestion and one I had considered but I think I would need to chop off the whole battery terminal to get it to fit, and that would make life a little complex It also means that replacing the stud clamps with normal probably is not the solution either. Thanks for the suggestion though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 are your battery's very tall? or is it an incredibly shallow box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Is it me or is that battery box a little shallow. I'm sure mine sits way lower down. Can you lower the inside of the box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisp Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 No, not a stupid suggestion and one I had considered but I think I would need to chop off the whole battery terminal to get it to fit, and that would make life a little complex It also means that replacing the stud clamps with normal probably is not the solution either. Thanks for the suggestion though Can I attcah a question to this trail - I want to reduce noise and thought fillinfg the batter vy box with foam - type stuff might work - does anyone have any ideas - i cannot afford noisekiller stuff right now and have bught rubber matts from nickthe ornage which help but i thought 'if i squirt that aeroseol foram insulationary stuff around the battery that will fill a box and reduce some noise - am i right , wrong or plain insane cheers chrisp any idea to cheap deaden my sound would be welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Can you not shuffle the battery to the front of the seat box where it is deepest? I had this issue when I fitted the twin batteries in the Camel. The smaller battery sits behind in the lower part of the box. Good luck! Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I'd want something robust and non metallic covering the battery terminals. How about making a new battery box cover out of 18mm or 25mm plywood and a couple of stips of steel or aluminium (the width of the box cover and say 50mm deep). So, you could have a stip of metal at the front of the cover to fit the existing clip on the front of the battery box and another at the back to fit in the slot. These could be screwed to the underside of the ply. Then cut holes in the ply to fit round the battery terminals and add a thinner sheet of ply over the holes to stop anything reaching the terminals. Hopefully there would be 30mm gap under the seats to let this all fit. If not you might be able to raise the seat height a bit with some penny washers under the runners. Then, when your batteries need replacing you can buy smaller ones and reuse the old lid. Hopefully, this makes sense and wouldn't cost much. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 Is it me or is that battery box a little shallow. I'm sure mine sits way lower down. Can you lower the inside of the box? The front section rivets onto the bottom of the seat box and all the side pieces rivet to the underside of the seat box. The base plate rests on the sill and sits in on the turned in edges of the side plates so I think the floor position is fixed. I have to say the kit is very well done. I have just been out to do vertical measurements. The batteries are each 200mm tall (to the bottom of the battery post) with a further 40mm on top for the stud clamp. The battery box depth is 260mm at the front and 205mm at the back. If I only wanted one battery in I do not think there would be a problem but I want to get a second in to run radio transceiver and also inverter etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Chris, Builders foam is horrible stuff which will be a so and so to get out. Some foams also affect electrical insulators over time leading to failure and short circuits. Not sure if it would react with the battery case as well. Most batteries produce small quantities of gas which needs to be vented which is why most battery boxes have a couple of holes in the bottom. If you fill the void and close the holes the gas will enter the cab. Probably not good. I though about suggesting a fibre / fire proof material such as sheep's wool insulation but if you do get water in the battery box via the vent holes the insultaion would hold onto it so rotting the box. So no cigar. I reckon the only thing to do is stick soundproofing to the top cover and the outsides of the box if you don't have carpet. Cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Both my batteries it in the standard batery box ok, mine are turned round 90 deg to yours, with both edges butted up against the front of the seatbox, or as close as they'd go. The lid slides on with about a cm gap underneath - from your description sounds like your battery box shouldnt eat into the space too much - have a go see if you can turn the batteries and fit them in that way, bit of a jiggle and you might need to extend the cable a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Camping mat and insulating tape? I'd advise against it. You want something at the very least like 3-5mm thick semi-rigid or rigid plastic such as polycarb or ABS sheet. A battery is a heavy thing with the potential to start a fire or explode, you don't want either happening especially under your arse. Bolt it down well and make sure, even if it should jump up, it absolutely cannot short itself out. Can you replace the terminals with the side-entry type rather than sticky-up stud? If you're worried about stacking lots of connections onto them, run one fat wire to a marine style bus-bar or car audio commoning block (check Halfords in the blingin' subwoofer department for one-to-many contact blocks). Another less lovely solution is to put a fold in the box lid to take it up over the terminals and back down, then you'd just need a small triangular filler piece on each edge to take up where the ridge is. You could also let in a small box to the lid or base, depending what's to hand and your skill level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 OK Camping mat and insulatin tape idea gone by the board - sounded good until hazards pointed out. In order to get going will try juggling batteries but if no go then will just add battery number one at least till weekend. I quite like the idea of plywood top to get out of the nasty brown stuff. Will report progress. Hopefully no more sweaty moments ! Thanks for suggestions and best wishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 My only reservation about using plywood is it could absorb water and provide an electrical path between the terminals, although it's unlikely to be a very good one and it depends how deep you drive I guess Also it's a car not a shed, most people (apart from Morgan) stopped using wood in cars some time ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Some people pay hundreds for a bit of wood trim in their cars... Granted plywood is less than ideal, just thought it would be something that could be bodged up from odds and ends. Got me thinking about an oak chassis though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renault4 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 why not fit a pair of those seat rail thingies that people with long legs fit to enable the seats to be pushed back a bit further than normal(can't remember what they are called) anyway they will raise the seats by about 30mm. should be enough to clear the battery terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I know exactly what you mean. Whoever threw that battery box together had never fitted a battery I don't think you'll have time but this is what I did....Just finishing off things now You'll have to scrool down a bit to come to the battery box bit http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=369337.0 The other idea is as has been suggested to fit seat rails....... mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 The simple reply is "your battery is too tall". You can easily get 3 shorter batteries in that box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Thats way to shallow a battery box, my standard one has 2 x Odyssey PC1700's long side to long side & I still use the standard cover. I'd cut the bottom off & extend the sides by another 50mm to give adequete internal space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Thats way to shallow a battery box, my standard one has 2 x Odyssey PC1700's long side to long side & I still use the standard cover. I'd cut the bottom off & extend the sides by another 50mm to give adequete internal space. That's the problem Ralph. You can't do that. The battery box sits on the chassis. Yes I found that out. The rear of the battery box needs to be away from the rear bulkhead panel. So you can't move it back........ mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 sounds a different design to the standard one then, I'm sure mine is well clear of the chassis rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 There is not a lot in it depth wise TBH. The YRM box is not as deep as the lowest part of my old box but is certainly as deep as the higher section of the box floor. So if you fit a battery `across` the vehicle then in effect you`ve lost nothing because with the old box the battery sits on that raised bit anyway. I waited untill i`d fitted the box before i ordered my batteries,two optimas fit with room to spare. comparison picture Beastie, did you have that battery in your old box in that same position? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 sounds a different design to the standard one then, I'm sure mine is well clear of the chassis rail. Ralph,thats why there is a raised bit in the floor, to clear the chassis rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Ralph,thats why there is a raised bit in the floor, to clear the chassis rail. So it does, can't have paid much attention to it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Well problem seems to have been resolved. For the sake of completeness I rammed the main battery as far forward as possible, then moved the second battery up close to it so that it too is as far forward as possible. I then took the stud clamps off the second battery and used standard angle clamps instead. THis allowed me to rivet on the top section of the seatbox with a relatively comfortable margin. Today I need to get the battery securing clamp fitted; put underseal on the outside of the box; and find the brown wire with yellow trace to tap into for the X-Charge. I am also going to see if I can find suitable bits of wood to create a floor level jigsaw for the box to assist the securing clamp in its job by not giving the batteries room to move. Thanks again for all your helpful ideas and support. All very best wishes Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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