davelr4x4 Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 200 Tdi Defender engine, one of the thermostat housing bolts has snapped off. I have made numerous attempts to get it out but all has failed. There is only about 2mm sticking out of the bottom of the thermostat housing. Any ideas? Many thanks! Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 is the busted stud in the stat housing or the cylinder head, the housing upper & lower parts are replaceable. have you got access to a set of stud extractors or easy outs & some good drill bits, would be worth getting a set like these Screwfix - stud extractor kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 there are two ways i use to remove snaped studs/bolts 1: heat, warm the stud up with gas or put it in the oven for an hour the cool with running water the alu cools faster so may free. then try to undo 2: hammer, hold the houseing in your hand and hit the stud with a hammer as hard as you can safey. then try to undo but a new bit if not to pricey would get you out of truble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblue110 Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 if your steady with a drill and have good drill bits id try drilling it out, if all else fails. tighten the top back on. use a drill bit as big as housing hole to take stud down flush to the top of the lower casing/square the stud face up, by doing this you'll also create a centre by which to drill. use a finer drill bit to create a pilot-has to be dead square or you'l find it dificult to correct with a bigger drill bit, (remembering that the casing is ali and if you catch it you'l be buying a new housing anyway). you then want to increase the bit size to the internal/minor diameter of the thread. if your lucky and as its not a blind hole so therefore wont be tight against a face it might well catch and pull the stud out, however as its sheared anyway i would suggest your not going to be that lucky. you'd need to retap the thread to clean the remaining bolt thread out but if your steady there shouldnt be much there and should near enough fall out. be a safer bet to just buy new, but being tight fisted and on carp money id always have a go before buying new andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 200 Tdi Defender engine, one of the thermostat housing bolts has snapped off. I have made numerous attempts to get it out but all has failed. There is only about 2mm sticking out of the bottom of the thermostat housing. Any ideas?Many thanks! Dave. 2mm sticking out is plenty. Either: 1: locate a nut which fits loosely over the stud, position over the stud and puddle weld the two together. Let cool somewhat, then undo by normal means. The heat from the welding will normally break any rust holding the bolt. or 2: Locate a bolt of sligthly larger diameter than the broken one. Sharpen the bolt to a point, and then weld onto the broken bolt/stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelr4x4 Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 is the busted stud in the stat housing or the cylinder head, the housing upper & lower parts are replaceable. Hi and thanks. I noticed that the lower part of the housing will come off, and indeed started to remove the bolts, but cannot get the bolts right out because of another item in the way which I presume is the timing cover or something similar. Is removing this a straightforward job? I would certainly prefer to get the offending thermostat housing off and into the pillar drill or indeed replaced completely. Thanks for the advice! Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD90 Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 The best stud extracters are Rigid ones http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Extra...et/EN/index.htm Expensive but they are better than the normal ones as they are parallel not tapered. The tapered ones have a tendancy to swell the broken screw in the hole making them harder to get out. The back-stop is always threaded inserts http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/R...epair_Kits.html AD90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Hi and thanks. I noticed that the lower part of the housing will come off, and indeed started to remove the bolts, but cannot get the bolts right out because of another item in the way which I presume is the timing cover or something similar. Is removing this a straightforward job? I would certainly prefer to get the offending thermostat housing off and into the pillar drill or indeed replaced completely.Thanks for the advice! Dave. the complete timing case would have to come off, including all the internal parts & crank pulleys, a lot of extra work, take out the other bolts that hold the lower part of the housing these are/should be M8 X 25mm long, & slide a hacksaw blade down the gap between cylinder head & stat housing & chop the broken bolt down so you can remove the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm I favour the 'weld a washer & nut to it' approach. But then I do have a mig to hand! The cheapie extractors have all the shear strength of a soft carrot & tend to break off in the thing you are trying to extract. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I also favour the welding approach. The heat breaks the corrosion and whatever you have welded gives you something to grip. If you don't have access to a welder, give the end of the stud a bit of tapping with a hammer and drift in as many directions as you can, as well as a good soaking with penetrating oil. If you can thet get some purchase on it with some grips, you stand a chance of getting it out. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Other alternatives: If you have a dremel or similar you can cut a slot for a screw driver into the stud. Use an impact driver with a slot head (impact grade) to drive it out. Ensure the stud has beed soaked in penetrating oil/plusgas/rustoleum for a day or two. Apply heat to loose rust or threadlocking compound. A final resort: Using a tungsten carbide tile cutting bit from a dremel remove the material a bit at a time - not applicable to this circumstance as there is so much material sticking out. g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelr4x4 Posted July 13, 2008 Author Share Posted July 13, 2008 Thanks for all the advice. I tried cutting a slot but no luck with the impact screwdriver. I hit is as hard as I dare. I have heated it with a blow torch and then was advised also to spray WD40 on afterwards and the shock will capillary some WD40 in. I have soaked it for a couple of days and I have bought some decent drill bits and have tried drilling it but the bits have cut in approx 4 mm but will not cut any further, almost like the bolt gets harder the farther I drill in. A bit odd, and not enough room to get the stud extractor in. I have now taken the advice of Western and have cut through the lower housing bolts to remove it completely. I will continue to try to drill it out now I can get it in the bench drill but it may be easier just to get a replacement housing. I have had no luck finding a price for one on the net, even though I've found the part number is ERR1499, so I guess it's a trip to T.H.White's in the morning to find out how much the housings cost. Cheers for all help, Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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