leeds Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Have an ARB rear axle locker fitted to my 110 overland vehicle which runs on standard half shafts and HD drive flanges. Last year did 25,000 miles in total in Australia with about 20,000 miles done off bitumen. The rear axle locker was engaged say a dozen times at low speed when I thought it would be useful to have continuing drive to both rear wheels. On inspecting the half shafts they are both twisted. Could engaging the rear axle locker whilst on the move actually be the cause of the half shafts being twisted? Or is the twist just the result of general driving in the Australian outback? The heavy duty drive flanges on the rear wheels shows some wear as the standard drive flanges on the front wheel. Regards Brendan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Sounds normal to me, think about how the corrugations will effect the half shafts as the wheels are constantly loaded and unloaded never mind the off road use I inspected my front shafts, CVs and diff a couple of weekends ago for the first time since fitting them before the OBC, not a mark on any of them, no twisting, no "chatter" marks, nothing. Mr Ashcroft does make exceedingly good axle bits ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Not unexpected, standard Land Rover Sals half shafts are like cheese. Order some Rovertracks, HiTough (nee Maxi-Drive) or Ashcroft ones. Basically whoever is cheapest at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 i would say its the result of a locker on std shafts in a heavily loaded vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Switching the locker in/out on the move is In my opinion the reason for the twisting count yourself lucky and Upgrade time I have today pulled the MD ones out of my front axle and after 5 or 6 years they are still A1 condition. If I were to replace I'd get Ashcrofts for ease of supply/quality. they weren't around when I purchased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeds Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Thanks for the replies folks. I decided NOT to fit Ashcroft type shafts to my 110 as I felt it would be easier to replace a broken half shaft in the middle of nowhere then to try and find a replacement diff. Weakest link idea. Spare half shafts were carried. Is it time to reconsider that idea? Remember the 110 is an overland vehicle and not a competition truck Regards Brendan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Brendan the Diff is strong already, Ashcroft shafts/Drive members you'll have one of the strongest L/R set ups available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Ditto what TC said, and my 130 is a DD/work and trip vehicle. Most everyone here runs MD stuff as the stock axles aren't up to the job. You wont damage the Sals with LR diameter axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Brendanthe Diff is strong already, Ashcroft shafts/Drive members you'll have one of the strongest L/R set ups available. I would prefer to have the weakest link at the propshaft, for ease of replacement and to avoid additional damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I'm not sure that engaging the locker while moving is such a good idea, probably better to be at a slow crawl/ walking pace when you switch it in/out. I agree with the others about upgrading your halfshafts, but might be worth talking to Ashcrofts about your concerns, as I'm sure they'll give you some honest advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I can't see that engaging the ARB when you're moving is a problem, particularly if you're going in a straight line. The diff will already be running both half shafts at the same speed anyway so it doesn't matter to the diff what speed you are doing. Engaging them whilst spinning one wheel I can see as a problem but not while driving dead straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 A while back, I had an idea (a torque overload warning) involving using the elastic twist in a half shaft to measure the torque applied to a wheel - but someone said the plastic deformation of halfshafts was significant - so it may be difficult to rely on the deformation being elastic and proportional to the torque. I fitted a new long shaft to my 90 with a line painted along the length. Drove it on the road for a year then inspected the shaft. I can't remember how much it had twisted - but it was significant (60 degrees?) along it's length. I would be inclined to think that your twist is just part of the normal life of a shaft? Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techtone Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I would prefer to have the weakest link at the propshaft, for ease of replacement and to avoid additional damage. Wow that's brave... You'd rather have a broken propshaft flailing around the underside of the floor than a broken halfshaft contained safely in the axle... Hmm .. each to his (or her) own! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Having had a front prop let go at 20-30MPH I'm with you it was an Experience I'd rather not repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I would prefer to have the weakest link at the propshaft, for ease of replacement and to avoid additional damage. I'm with the others on this one.. the LAST thing i'd want is a broken propshaft trashing the underside of my car... give me a broken halfshaft/ CV joint any day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedley Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Having had a front prop let go at 20-30MPH I'm with you it was an Experience I'd rather not repeat. Here, here! 10 mph and the prop burst a hole thru a perfectly good chassis!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Could the weak point be made to be the slide on the prop? Then it is easy to replaced, easy to diagnose. But would not lash about once broken. Think I would prefer no weak link! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 At some of the events I have attended off road it seems to me that many people have selected their weakest link as them behind the steering wheel Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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