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Twin Front Shock Mounts


Mark90

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Guest diesel_jim

I used to have a set on my 90, took them off in the end as they caused more trouble than they were worth.... the ride became very hard, and with the long (rancho 9000's) shocks i had, the shocks kept rubbing against the chassis on full drop, or catching on the inside of the spring, and the "HD retaining rings" that i got broke on both sides.

in the end i ditched them, fitted OME back on and have never looked back. :D

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It's not a case of not liking the QT ones, although they way they bolt on to the steering box mount maybe isn't ideal. Been trying to buy a set from QT for some time now, finally got a complete rear set but they have not been able to supply a front set, so they have been told not to bother, or words to that effect. Maybe the fact they have been moving premises could account for the poor service, either way we're looking for an alternative supplier.

They are going on a comp safari racer so droop isn't an issue, and heavy damping is what we're after.

Ibexman, if it comes to it I might come back to you about those mounts you may have.

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You could try gon2far....

Andy's kit on the 90 relocates the front shock from it's standard position, but there's no reason AFAIK that it could not be used alongside the standard mounts to allow for a twin shock set-up.

Gon 2 Far Page or Andy's website - click on the 3 link suspension link for some pictures of the shock mount

Ian

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Before you fit them read my story.

I had a set of scrap iron one on my 110. They did improve the ride. However the 2nd shock absorbers where removed after it was found that the mounts had torn the chassis spring retainers almost completely off on the left hand side - 2 inches of spring mount not torn - and on the right hand 3 1/2 inches not torn. This being caused by the rocking motion that the double shock mounts caused.

I found this out when 6 km's down a 4x4 track in the Fish River Canyon in Nambia when invetigating a clocking noise from the front. After as many cable ties as possible to try and secure the spring to what was left of the spring mount then had a 90km drive to get to a mechanic to weld them up.

Speaking to a mechanic, we found looking at our vehicle in Swaakopmound, he stated that this is what had happened to all the kits he had fitted and that is why they are not used in Nambia.

This was confirmed on our return from our trip by reading a story about a couple traveling across africa in one of the Land Rover mags who recounted the same thing.

I am not sure if it is that the mounts are not designed for carry large loads on 110's?

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Thanks for the info guys.

Soutie, twin shocks are routinely fitted, these days more often than not, to comp safari racers. And I've never see spring seat ripped of due to the shock mounts. Maybe it's a combination of teh weight and/or corrugated roads.

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£70 Pair is I think Good Price and Matts stuff its top notch qulaity, unlike some firms I have had deliongs with lately...I'm just going to ring till I get him tommorrow :lol:

I have been loking and think re the rear tube a Frame mit Rose Joint....

Can't decide what size tube OD ID this might bem much as I have studied the pics and tried to guesstimate.. :blink:

Anyone know what tube they use ? :huh:

Nige :unsure:

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I have a pair of Matt's singles to replace the rusty cans, agree reasonable price at the time, well made and sturdy, also his uprated retainer rings.

I just changed to a pair of the QT plate type singles in order to use air bags in the future, not on the road yet but I was not so impressed by the alignment with the lower points on the standard late ABS EAS axle, time will tell and I may end up making my own.

This is all on a RRC with a late bodyshell, even with the late bodyshell the inner wings had to be trimmed.

4196c9e4fa.jpg

Sorry I don't have a pic of it in place, this just to show how much had to be trimmed even on a supposedly EAS shell.

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Why do you feel you need twin shocks..

Beamach do

Tomcat will do a twin shock kit.

QT do

There only anygood on racing trucks the only Idea behind it is to reduce the work each shock does and reduceing the heat build up in the shocks but you will still get to a piont in racing when even good quality shocks like OME's will just melt and fall off half way through a lap (seen it too many times).

Then you need to go for a far better cooled shock like a 2"Milner,tomcat,Fox or the new 2 1/2" pro-comp and then you still have the Ohlins and Rieger as the best money can buy.

but this is only needed for racing trucks

Challanging and laning dose not need twin shocks the car will simply be over damped.. and ride like a bag of s---

just buy good quality singles unless your planning to race.

Jules

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OK thats a fair comment

have a look at the new Procomp 2 1/2" there very cheep in the states its is just getting them over here but you will need a rose joint affar.

my first racer had Bilstin(I was never happy with them) twins on the rear by double mounting the rr shock mounts on the chassie and axle.

the Front was a home made copy of the LSE that I had at the time basicly re-enforce the shock turret and mount a nother shock in front if you can weld it easy.

For racing in normal twin shocks value for money use Pro-comps. Richard Hopkins the other Bearmach driver ran them two years ago at the tonbridge round of the BORC and set the fastest lap of the day. In his Disco 4lt.

The OME have a very strong sharft but there expensive to replace.

Pete Barret did all the shock work to the RR I raced years ago if you want any help give me a ring

07976 819947

julian

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Thanks for that.

Looking at various options at the moment, re shocks and mounts. Shocks will be cheap and chearful, at least to begin with, especially with 8 to buy, nothing more flash than pro-comps, but maybe just HD 110 fronts. Other mate raced with 8 of these for years (not the same 8) and had no problems and the damping rate worked out quite well.

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twin shocks are routinely fitted, these days more often than not, to comp safari racers. And I've never see spring seat ripped of due to the shock mounts. Maybe it's a combination of teh weight and/or corrugated roads.

I suppose running in a comp safari once a month for a whole year equals to two weeks of driving with a full load on African dirt roads. The difference is that the comp safari machine can be rebuilt before a new season whereas the overland vehicle has to go on and on.

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Nop

You can think that if you like but there are too many difrances

overland is very hard on a car don't get me wrong

but there is a reson why peolpe pay between £500- £2000 per shock

your not bracking as hard or power sliding or just the flat out speed and the fact that your pushing the car so far past what it was ever desined to do. sorry to sound harsh but I have this argument with so many people

D4x4 could not comprehend that I have watched a 4.6 simbie racer come in after 3 miles 8 OME shocks 4 of them have melted (limp oil leaking from everywhere) and the other for are doing nothing as there are mid overheat. that in less than 3 miles slowing down for coners and stuff.

people will not ever understand the pounding that a comp racer goes through untill you compete at a high level in one.

the normal african roads you talk about with the pot holes and wash boarding are regarded as a cat 1 thats flat out 115mph in my case or 130mph in the top cars and Dakar is 150mph. can't see a overland 110 doing that can you.......

If you do, you had better get you dakar entry form off so you can go and win it in your overland truck .

it cost's the winning team £30m to do it last year with three cars but you seem to think its just a contry drive.......

Sorry to sound harsh but you did imply it was easy

Jules

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twin shocks are routinely fitted, these days more often than not, to comp safari racers. And I've never see spring seat ripped of due to the shock mounts. Maybe it's a combination of teh weight and/or corrugated roads.

I suppose running in a comp safari once a month for a whole year equals to two weeks of driving with a full load on African dirt roads. The difference is that the comp safari machine can be rebuilt before a new season whereas the overland vehicle has to go on and on.

mmm i am about to drive around Australia in a 90 (Australia - Afica same thing) . And all i am doing to the running gear on that is to put OME shocks and springs. And that is to deal with the weight and the corrgated roads they have. The truck will last fine with that

But racing is another thing totally. Get a ride in a truck and then come back and dissus. They are bloody nutters and drive across stuff that you can't even walk across. But they do it flat our.

OME will last all round Australia on my 90 but would not last one race.

The worst thing about overlanding is somthing breaking in the middle , and meen middle of no where ., As i said before we are going around Aus with the 90 , and you have to think that there are places that you will find that there is 1000 kliometers with out feul (that is like from Southampton to Inverness with out a pertol station). So you have to carry alot of stufff with you . So that does put stress on the truck and running gear, but still no where near what racing does.

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QUOTE (Mark90 @ Aug 22 2005, 09:07 PM)

twin shocks are routinely fitted, these days more often than not, to comp safari racers. And I've never see spring seat ripped of due to the shock mounts. Maybe it's a combination of teh weight and/or corrugated roads.

I have seen the spring seats ripped off the chasse and front hocky stick pushed through the chassie and the radius arms bending.

the spring seat bracking off the chassie, apart from your pushing too hard in the car is under damped and the massive impactes in racing is just too much, its hard to do but its normaly around the piont that your shocks are overheating and becoming ineffective that the springs are putting so much strain through the seats that they just give up.

Thats if your own spine has not given out. Thats why I stopped racing beam axles I got fed up with the back pain after the event.

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Used to spanner for a mate of mine high number AWDC racer - between laps we used to remove shocks and chuck in drum of water, they hissed and bubbled on entering the water they were that hot !

Burnt through welding gloves trying to remove them !

He now has Ohlins on each corner of the racer at wait for it £700 EACH <gulp> and boy is he quick now.

Massive shocker, adjustable to both damp and rebound, res and rebuildable, a work of art, but how many people would spend £2800 on shocks on their car...Oh and he has a 3.5 (V much modded V8 on CARBS) but beat some of the big boys 5.0 5.2 V8s as he can ride the bumps....

Nige

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