Litch Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 "The witches hat is the probably the part that I'm not looking forward to removing only because the the mounts look sh*^^%d." Order new turret-rings & turrets before you start, both are cheap enough and that way you know you won't have any delays in putting it all back together. Standard turrets are fine and really cheap but I replaced mine with standard height galvanised tubular ones for no other reason than being an open design, they are a lot easier to keep clean and prevent a build-up of muck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 Just a note of caution - be very very careful using spring compressors. They can go wrong very quickly. As said above, you should have no problem getting the springs out unless they are exceptionally long aftermarket ones. Don't make the mistake on the front of using a ratchet spanner to do up the new shocks - the pin will come down far enough to stop you getting the spanner back off again!! Changing front shocks is the most tedious job on a LR IMHO. Well that's definately some thing to watch - especially never having had any experience of using spring compressors. I don't want to get BITTEN or loose space to get the spanner off!! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 If the front shock turrets haven't been off in a while the turret ring threads and nuts will be shent as well (assuming you go down the route of taking the turrets off) and they aren't metric nuts on mine ... Yep not looking forward to doing the turrets! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 No they're 5/16" UNF For the front get some Discovery spring isolators. They should stop some of the front suspension noise. Well here's hoping I have a 5/16'' UNF!!! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Apologies if you already know this but it's something that nearly caught me out. The shocks most likely come with new rubbers and large dished washers. Make sure you get the washers the correct way around. When I did mine I thought they looked right with the dishes hugging the rubbers. I later found out they needed to face away from the rubbers to allow movement of the shocks during articulation. Fortunatly I only did the first shock incorrectly until somebody pointed this out to be so all I lost was a bit of time. The chap said if you run it with the washers the wrong way around then there is a possibility the shock rods will bend or snap which would not be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 Apologies if you already know this but it's something that nearly caught me out. The shocks most likely come with new rubbers and large dished washers. Make sure you get the washers the correct way around. When I did mine I thought they looked right with the dishes hugging the rubbers. I later found out they needed to face away from the rubbers to allow movement of the shocks during articulation. Fortunatly I only did the first shock incorrectly until somebody pointed this out to be so all I lost was a bit of time. The chap said if you run it with the washers the wrong way around then there is a possibility the shock rods will bend or snap which would not be good VERY GOOD timing!! I did not know that and like you and the person who fitted the current shocks would have fitted the washers the wrong way round! I think that should go in the tech archive some where - Mods what do you think? BIG thanks for that bit of advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 CG I recommend these: Gwyn Lewis' galvanised open turrets .... Link Well worth doing whilst its in bits imo. He does these too: Very good price too - link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Great news! I would want to put a pair stiltons over their lovely new and shiney yellow tubes! Thanks WARNING - Holding your shock absorber tube with blue cheese could be messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 CG I recommend these: Gwyn Lewis' galvanised open turrets .... Link Well worth doing whilst its in bits imo. He does these too: Very good price too - link I've got the the rear 3 positions mounts from Gwn and they're great. I had looked at those open turrets as well so I may yet do them when I get round to the fronts. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 WARNING - Holding your shock absorber tube with blue cheese could be messy. Well I think Stilton is a better choice than trying to get a monkey wrench to stay still long enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 "Good idea for the safety belt. A mate has leant me a set spring compressors so that should make it nice and easy. Great that there's no order either way!" Unless your shocks are SEVERAL inches longer than standard there is no need for spring compressors. Jack up & support the chassis, remove the wheel and using a jack lower the axle watching the brake-lines as you go. With the turret & shock removed the springs will just lift out. Done this a few times now and on average it takes about 1-hour a corner (fronts slightly more than the rear). OK, forgetting about the wind and the snow, I have been trying to remove one the rear springs and got NO WHERE fast (and cold ) I have jacked up the chassis and removed the wheel. I used a 4x4 trolley jack so it lifts nice and high. The axle did drop but the spring remained NICE and secure (yes I did remove the spring securing plate ) What am I doing wrong? I really need to get these done and if I'm struggling with the rears then it doesn't bode well for the fronts! HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Have you removed the shocks? The shocks reach full extension and stop the axle drooping any further... Put your jack under the axle before you remove the shocks and lower it slowly. If you just let it drop it could go too far and tear the brakelines off etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Have you removed the shocks? The shocks reach full extension and stop the axle drooping any further... Put your jack under the axle before you remove the shocks and lower it slowly. If you just let it drop it could go too far and tear the brakelines off etc. BINGO!! Knew there would be some thing stupid I had or hadn't done.. Thanks for that. Now when it stops snowing I'll give it ago and do it properly this time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 very helpful for me. I'm glad theres another novice here.....I'll be doing this myself soon and those new turrets might be a purchase to make. Are they as good as solid ones??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 if you mean as good as the standard items, the ones above are better as no mud can get caught in them & retain moisture, I changed mine years ago for some tubular mounts from DLS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 very helpful for me. I'm glad theres another novice here.....I'll be doing this myself soon and those new turrets might be a purchase to make. Are they as good as solid ones??? You can rely on me to make mistakes!! Have no idea if they are as good as the witches hats but I'm sure a adult will be along shortly who knows whats what Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 if you mean as good as the standard items, the ones above are better as no mud can get caught in them & retain moisture, I changed mine years ago for some tubular mounts from DLS. Thanks Ralph. Knew some one who knew some thing would be along soon! Another set of purchases on the way then! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 if you mean as good as the standard items, the ones above are better as no mud can get caught in them & retain moisture, I changed mine years ago for some tubular mounts from DLS. so thats them added to the shopping list. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 If the spring still wont come out with the shocks removed, jack up the opposite side of the axle. This is particularly useful at the front.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 If the spring still wont come out with the shocks removed, jack up the opposite side of the axle. This is particularly useful at the front.... That's another one for me then...just remind me later in the week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 One tool I keep in the workshop is a siscr jack. They come cheap from the scrappy. Sit one on the axle under the chassis and you can push the axle down. Not required on a 110 with heavy duty springs all round. Just watch the flexi brake pipes for stretch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stravaigin Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Whenever I am doing springs and shocks I put opposite wheels on my ramps (ie front lhs & rear rhs) then jack on either non ramp side, remove wheel and shock, lower jack and spring almost falls out, no need for spring compressors. Another vote for Gwyn Lewis kit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 One tool I keep in the workshop is a siscr jack. They come cheap from the scrappy. Sit one on the axle under the chassis and you can push the axle down. Not required on a 110 with heavy duty springs all round. Just watch the flexi brake pipes for stretch. Great idea and cheap as you say too! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 Whenever I am doing springs and shocks I put opposite wheels on my ramps (ie front lhs & rear rhs) then jack on either non ramp side, remove wheel and shock, lower jack and spring almost falls out, no need for spring compressors. Another vote for Gwyn Lewis kit too. Now that is another great idea...glad you rate the Gwyn Lewis kit too Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 The Gwyn Lewis kit is brilliant IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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