Maverik Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I’ve got plans to create a new wiring harness for my headlights and my Auxiliary lights, in the region of 600w of lighting to wire up, I’m all sorted with how I’m going to do it except I’m unsure of where to take the main power from on the loom, or straight off the battery? I have 5 power take off’s at the moment, one 20Amp and four 15Amp. Where is the best place to take this power off? http://madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml I was thinking of putting something like this in my battery box? Anyone got one done similar? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I took mine (SIII) off the battery because it is near the front and used fused relays for the lights, fastened to the radiator panel. This keeps high current wiring short and allows thin wires to connect to the switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 standard loom takes power from starter motor stud, so that could be an option, keeps battery box uncluttered aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I took mine (SIII) off the battery because it is near the front and used fused relays for the lights, fastened to the radiator panel. This keeps high current wiring short and allows thin wires to connect to the switches. I took my spot light feed on my TD5 directly from the back of the alternator to the relay (switched from an ignition live feed) works without problems, just disconnect the battery first to avoid welding the spanner!!! Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 just disconnect the battery first to avoid welding the spanner!!! I learn't that the hard way, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Run a fat feed to one of these, makes life easy all round: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Oooooo thats what I need!!! where do I purchase them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 VWP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 There was a thread ages ago in the defender section on those auxillary fuseboxes - very good solution. The link is at home on my laptop at home. I saved it at the time to do similar things. Will post it up later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 There was a thread ages ago in the defender section on those auxillary fuseboxes - very good solution. The link is at home on my laptop at home. I saved it at the time to do similar things. Will post it up later. That woul be usefull. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these from, after you've added VAT and postage it getting on for 50 squid... bit pricey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Have a look round a scrapyard. I got something similar out of a Metro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 That woul be usefull. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these from, after you've added VAT and postage it getting on for 50 squid... bit pricey... Its quite probably worth that price. The nice thing about that box is that it really easily allows the earths from big appliances to be run back to the box. Using a 2 core wire would make that nice and easy. I'll dig out the link in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoor_ian Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 check ebay I picked up 2 for £18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 There was a thread ages ago in the defender section on those auxillary fuseboxes - very good solution. The link is at home on my laptop at home. I saved it at the time to do similar things. Will post it up later. I think I might have had something to do with that original thread... I have a 6-way one of these - Click Me!!! They do a 12-way one, too. I got mine from - Click me too!!! It wasn't cheap (definitely sub-£30) but was the best I could find at the time. I expect there are other places to get them now (Devon 4x4 do a similar product, but just for the positive side), but the important thing for me was that there were both positive and negative feeds to the fuse box. This means only one (fairly substantial in your case) feed for each back to the battery, rather than multiple wires or multiple earth points around the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I think I might have had something to do with that original thread... Yep, you were there too....Here it is: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=43455&st=0&gopid=404112entry404112 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoor_ian Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 delete me pls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Know of a sealed version of the above boxes? I'm leaning towards putting one fusebox in the battery box and one under the bonnet and having one with a good o-ring seal would be ideal there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 That woul be usefull. Does anyone know anywhere else I can get these from, after you've added VAT and postage it getting on for 50 squid... bit pricey... Hiya, Im just setting about rerouting spaggetti in mine, i picked this up last night from Maplins £10.99 its not going to be water proof as its openish underneath, but i think you could seal it with silicone? the clear top fits tightly Hope this helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 All my power lines go from a simple nut and bolt (free) which acts as my 'junction box' to my 200amp split charge relay on the auxilary side then I have a simple fuse box after the bolt for each system. Simples! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Oh, what about relay-blocks, anyone found a good one to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I decided against a relay block on mine. I preferred to site relays to keep the high current cables as short as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 That Maplin one can be sealed with a piece of flat rubber across the back, and it then being screwed to a flat surface, much better than a load of mucky silicon IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Oh, what about relay-blocks, anyone found a good one to use? The standard VW interlocking relay holders (RBL4?) work well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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