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Britpart Drive Flanges and Shafts


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Hello,

I have for the first time in many years of driving Defender 110's destroyed a rear drive flange. It was a Britpart one.

I have an International HS 2.8 engine, double ARB and 265/75/16 tires. I use the Defender for moderate intensity off road use in the mountains (rocky areas) plus quite a lot of on road driving.

My current setup is rear Britpart driveshafts and drive flanges and I have sort of lost confidence in the Birtpart drive flanges (and shafts as well although they have not broken yet).

The question is: What is the opinion in the UK about Britpart drive flanges and how do they compare with OEM or genuine LR ones?

I have asked in my country and I seem to have two types of responses:

a) go for the Ashcroft shafts and drive flanges and forget about the problem for ever.

b) keep on putting cheap (and easy to replace) OEM or Britpart drive flanges and you will save a broken cluth or broken gearbox given the torque of the 2.8 engine, tires, ARB's, etc.

Obviously A) seems to be the expensive way and B) the cheap way, at least on the short run.

What do people who have had this problem before think based on their experience?

Thanks

Santiago

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Brit part commonly rhymes with Britpart for good reason they do not have a good reputation in the UK, there are some good bit(however I'm not sure which ones are good) but a hell of a lot of carp too

John

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OK, thanks guys for your replies.

It`s quite clear then that Britpart is not known for its quality products, including their drive flanges.

So it seems very likely that the Britpart drive member I broke was probably not as strong as an OEM or a genuine LR one.

So what other options do I have? Or in other words what is the most popular rear driveshaft/rear drive flange combination used in the UK when ARB lockers are used? Just put all Ashcroft or all genuine LR? Any other options? I just want to find the right combination in order to avoid breaking drive flanges and drive shafts too often while at the same time having some kind of "fuse" (the drive flange?) that will prevent damage to the clutch or gearbox in tough (very high torque) situations.

Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Cheers,

Santiago

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Brit part commonly rhymes with Britpart for good reason they do not have a good reputation in the UK, there are some good bit(however I'm not sure which ones are good) but a hell of a lot of carp tooJohn

I did'nt say britpart rhymed with britpart I put something else which was'nt as nice as that started with an S :(

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OK, thanks guys for your replies.

It`s quite clear then that Britpart is not known for its quality products, including their drive flanges.

So it seems very likely that the Britpart drive member I broke was probably not as strong as an OEM or a genuine LR one.

So what other options do I have? Or in other words what is the most popular rear driveshaft/rear drive flange combination used in the UK when ARB lockers are used? Just put all Ashcroft or all genuine LR? Any other options? I just want to find the right combination in order to avoid breaking drive flanges and drive shafts too often while at the same time having some kind of "fuse" (the drive flange?) that will prevent damage to the clutch or gearbox in tough (very high torque) situations.

Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Cheers,

Santiago

Santiago, to be honest if you can affored Ashcroft parts then go for it. You're talking high quality gear with good after sales service. I would buy LR/bespoke parts for everything if I was uber rich. unfortunatly I'm not. So I just buy expensive important bits and make do with the rest.

I'm just replacing my fron CV's, I looked at Ashcrofts fusable one's and they look amazing, but for £450 a pop, I can't justify that money just now, so I ended up finding some Genuine LR at Rimmerbros (hopefully these are GKN and will last me).

I think the weakest point in any standard transmission are the half shafts, hence why they are mostly easy to change out if they do break.

Mav

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Sorry for my ignorance but what/where is Rakeway?

Are KAM flanges considered to be better than Ashcroft's or +/- equivalent?

Cheers,

Stgo

Rakway are a motor sports engineering firm, they make heavy duty bits for racing spec vehicle like dakar 4x4 etc. make you a clutch that you could tow the world with. - the guy was extremly helfull when I spoke to him about clutches, loads of free advice.

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/

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They are not shop keepers or enthusiasts they are engineers who are enthusiasts if that makes sence they will make you anything from a ford 9 irs unit to a transfer box with everything in between.They are THE ONLY people that I will deal with :D

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok now I`m a bit angry.

They send me another left shaft from paddock. And guess what? Yes, I broke it again...

Is it possible to do something wrong while mounting?

Are the mesures of halfshafts and CV joints all the same until TD5?

I went to 10/32 splines from 10/33.

So joints and shafts are both new.

Did I do something wrong or am I just so unlucky??

Please help

Cheers

Dejan

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Ok now I`m a bit angry.

They send me another left shaft from paddock. And guess what? Yes, I broke it again...

Is it possible to do something wrong while mounting?

Are the mesures of halfshafts and CV joints all the same until TD5?

I went to 10/32 splines from 10/33.

So joints and shafts are both new.

Did I do something wrong or am I just so unlucky??

Please help

Cheers

Dejan

Where's it braking? some pictures might be useful.

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If you're driving rocky terrain with a rear locker in a 110 (and I'm assuming you have bigger tyres too) then it's almost certain you're going to break standard shafts. Genuine Land Rover are not very strong, britpart and other pattern parts may as well be made from soft cheese.

Ashcrofts, rakeway, KAM will all be much stronger than genuine, I think KAM even make different grades of shaft of varying strength/price. Wasn't aware KAM outsourced to Rakeway :unsure:

Rakeway do some nice stuff but their delivery time can be very variable, they may be engineers not shopkeepers but sometimes you do need to put your shopkeeper hat on and actually send the goods to the customer :ph34r:

You also have the ultimate limitations of the Land Rover drivetrain, there's very little you can do to run bigger than ~36" tyres reliably even with all the uprated gear, axle swaps are about the only cost-effective way forward at that point.

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[KAM Hat On]

:P

Yes we use Rakeway for some of our machining - cos they iz damned good :D

Shafts, Yes correct, 2 grades HD (Heavy Duty) best for someone needing "More than Standard" and we

have made these for years, and they are significanly Stronger but the cheaper of the 2 x we do.

And "Aerospace" Grade Shafts, the best we do, and the most expensive, 5 year warrnaty on breakages, but you'll pay for them, these are really for trucks which are used in anger in competition, for very heavily loaded kit, ie expedition 110s, or simply where people want to fit the best we have and forget them.

Britpart ? - Frankly better buying a 100,000 unknown history as a replacement than what you have bought,

but thats my opinion !

[KAM Mode off]

Back to moderator mode :rofl:

Nige

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Where's it braking? some pictures might be useful.

On the CV side, on splines. Will post pics.

I`m running standard tyres, no locker and not even half of hard terrain as I did with original shafts...

Which of mentioned "shopkeepers" has reliable shafts and is not to expensive? If I want to take best shafts for small amount of money?

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Santiago, KAM have a factory in Brasil, I suppose they made this flanges there. You remember a Argentinian post about Kaiser locker? that is the same factory, I know it because a friend of mine brings their bits from there. Have 130's some stronger axles we can use in our 110?

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