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Wierd starting pause required


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Our 300tdi used to start without any problem .... Wait for glow light to go out and instant start. Even if you turned key before glow lights went out still started on the turn

anyway in recent days even if you wait for the glow light to go out and then turn the result is just a click no fire no turnover

now have to wait about ten seconds after glow light has gone out and a click is heard from behing the fusboard before you get the engine to fire and start

once you have waited for the click most times the truck will start onthe key turn

battery light does not stay on and nothing else odd. And there have been no changes to the electrics

Your avise would be v welcome thanks

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glow plugs might need changing, take them out, get your jump leads out,

connect the neg lead to the glowplug body

connect positive lead to the threaded stud at the top where the yellow/black wires fit, lie it, coonect other end of jump leads to battery, if each glowplug is in good working order it should glow bright red within 10 seconds, disconnected the battery/jump leads, be carefull picking up the glow plug as the tip will may still be very hot, if all 4 are working refit to engine, other option is try another timer relay.

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Poo ! Having thought we cured it its back.

Only seems to happen when starting from cold. This morning -2C - turn on ignition wait for glow plugs to go out - turn key - nothing - no fire no crank

Turning off then back on and repeating usually results in engine firing and cranking and starting.

Have replaced earthing straps cleaned earthing points

Battery read 12.3v last night - this morning read 12.05v - dropped to 10.8v while plugs were on and then returned to 11.9v

When engine runs battery gets 13.8 - 14 v

Has an immobilser fitted which came with the Meck Lock.

Before I loose the will live - can someone point me in the right direction ! Thanks

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My 110 suffers a similar problem, caused by a sticky starter solenoid. You turn to the start position and just get nothing. Sometimes just a single click.

Keep trying any eventually it will just fire as if there was never a problem. I have bought another starter motor to solve it, hopefully it will work.

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Well western yet again wins the prize. It was indeed an earthing issue - all earth checked and tightened and new earthing stamp fitted - now fires and starts instantaneously

You Sir are a star. :D

just to break in Cypermethrin, where and what is the "earthing stamp" that you fitted, I have starting probs from time to time and check battery etc. but not sure what you have done, can you post up something for us newbies

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I'm new to this too - but the internet is a wondeful place

http://www.land-rover-blog.co.uk/how-to-clean-the-main-earthing-points-on-a-land-rover/

just to break in Cypermethrin, where and what is the "earthing stamp" that you fitted, I have starting probs from time to time and check battery etc. but not sure what you have done, can you post up something for us newbies

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Yup you wasted your money on that battery, see if you can return it

Good job on checking the earths first

First check the voltage at the solenoid wire, if it has voltage go to step A if there is no voltage go to B (but to be fair it's worth checking both anyway)

A) Provide 12V directly to the starter solenoid and see if it turns over, if you hear a click and nothing else (or nothing at all) then the starter needs changing, however if the problem is intermittant it may just work but still be at fault as it may be a sticking solenoid on the starter. Do it a few times to check. Now go to step B

B) Follow the solenoid wire back to the starter relay which is simple to test, it is behind the fusebox and the wiring is indicated clearly by the haynes manual, just unplug the solenoid wire and then turn the key and make sure the relay is functioning as it should and it is getting a feed from the barrel. If not just keep following the problem backwards to the source.

Shouldn't take you more than a hour to solve your starting problem, good luck.

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Never mind - you live and learn - at least now I know we have a new good battery - think the one I removed must have been a good 5/6 years old... (trying to convince myself here !)

Starter going in tomorrow - fingers crossed

Yup you wasted your money on that battery, shame I didn't see this earlier :(

When trying to figure out a starting problem which is effecting the starter motor the first thing you should do is provide 12V directly to the starter solenoid and see if it turns over, However if the problem is intermittant you can bet the problem is a sticking solenoid on the starter. Other than that follow the solenoid wire back to the starter relay which is simple to test, it is behind the fusebox and the wiring is indicated clearly by the haynes manual, just unplug the solenoid wire and then turn the key and make sure the relay is functioning as it should and it is getting a feed from the barrel.

Shoyuldn't take you more than a hour to solve your starting problem, good luck.

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Guys an update

New starter went in on Thursday - spins much faster and started consistently....

Until this afternoon .......... When I turned the key got squeal (not a belt squeal) but a metallic gear squeal. Turned off and retried. Turn key to 3rd position, starter motor heard running but no fire or crank. Repeated with same effect.

Turned off and tried again, firing and starting first time.

So after new battery and new starter --- now have this symptom

Views please.... Thanks

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That sounds like the starter motor gear is not engaging with the flywheel to me, most likely a problem with the starter as stripped teeth on the flywheel is quite rare.

What make was the starter that you bought? I have found anything but OEM Valeo are pants, with other makes failing in as short as 1 day.

Sorry you are having so much trouble with it, bloody landrovers eh!

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The fitted starter motor was an ALLMAKES Part No: NAD500210 cost about 106 quid according to the Allmakes WWW site. The Valeo part costs 76 pounds more than this. I thought Allmakes were OK ?

Looking at the way in which its been wired - there are two approx 4 mm thick (including insulation) earthing wires connected to an earthing point on the chassis - I thought the earthing to the chassis needed something more substancial ?

Thanks chaps

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You are correct, the earthing needs to be much more substantial

The norm is a large braided strap like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAVY-DUTY-EARTH-STRAP-24V-BRAIDED-TERMINAL-RING-12-x-1-/180544658873?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a094cddb9#ht_2089wt_905 (without those terminals and normally flat) Straight from the starter motor mounting bolts to the chassis

Might be worth fixing that before you move on anyway. If that doesn't work then you will have to take the starter back off to check the flywheel and if that is ok then the starter must be at fault as it seems all the other systems are working as they should.

Adam

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