MuddyWinny Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Hello, I'm interested in hearing from anybody who has run a 10 Spline ARB locker in the front axle using standard shafts and CV joints. My Landrover is an early 90 so has (hopefully) the stronger CV joints. There isn't much grunt from under the bonnet and I'm currently running on 235/85 16 Special Tracks. The intention is to use it at 'Pay and play' days. I have the option at the moment to fit one to my 90 but I would be intrerested to hear if the general experience is either 'if you treat it gently the standard shafts should be ok', or 'you really don't want to do that'. Thanks MW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 WELL... not in the front, but have one in the rear, and am still running stock shafts there, with known VERY worn drive flanges. With it locked up, I have given it a lot of abuse and nothing has failed, pretty surprised TBH, but pleasantly of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suggs Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 i think having a locker just in the front axle you are more likley to do damage than having one in the rear. i think as long as you keep the wheels pointing straight then theres not to much stress on the shafts etc, but problems start when the lockers are on and you move the steering... personley i would put the locker in the back axle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyWinny Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 Thanks for the replies. Perhaps I should have said that I already have a locker in the rear axle. Bowie69 - It's interesting that you haven't broken anything. What vehicle is the locker in? MW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Very Much depends on Tyres - Size and how agressive Engine - how much BHJP & Torque Gearing and the drivers Right foot But it is not a strong axle - add an ARB and its even more likley to break I belive GKN may be doing HS Shafts again for 10 spline - but horribly spendy Some ARB 10s can be upgraded to 24 spline - but not all, better to upgrade to 24 s and fit HD 24 s shafts that styaing 10 and going HD, also 24s HD shafts are less than GKN ones so the difference can go towards conversion I would say if it all your pocket can withstand then do it and go easy, if you can afford more go 24 Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davedef90 Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 I ran 10 spl ARB's for a while. Only broke 1 CV but that was climbing out of a ditch at a silly angle. I was a newbie then and have learnt a bit since then. Hopefully As Nig says you can upgrade a 10 to 24 spl. After lots of research I managed to find out that it was possible but the cost of parts was more than a complete new 24 spl locker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 I would be inclined to try and save up and buy a 24-spline ARB (or whatever else) and some 24-23 aftermarket shafts to go with your stronger 23-spline OE CVs (which could then be further upgraded if when you broke them). However, for a cheap and immediate solution then why not? Just be careful how you use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 I ran 10 spline ARBs front and rear in mine for a few years with standard (albeit imperial axles) shafts and CVs. I inspected the shafts regularly and over about 4 years use in challenge events probably replaced half a dozen shafts but only 2 actually failed, the others were replaced at the first sign of any twisting on the splines. I was running a 3.9 V8 and 35" Simex. When I did the 2005 Outback Challenge I broke a single rear shaft during the whole 7/8 days of competition and that was in a boulder strewn creek bed when I dropped a wheel into a hole and basically drove out of it on 3 wheels with all the weight of the vehicle on one wheel. The only things I did always do were: a) Carry a spare for each shaft and a couple of CVs b) Remove the shafts regularly, ideally after every competition, and replace any that look to have twisted. c) When one needed replacing through failure or through inspection, always replace the opposite side too - it's very likely they both suffered. d) Always buy second hand shafts from a 4x4 breaker - not only is it cheaper but they always seemed to last better than even new genuine ones. Maybe they get work hardened or something or just newer ones aren't made as well. i was running RRC ones though so second hand ones in 2005 would have been 10-20 years old. e) Drive gently when you have the lockers in, especially the front. Avoid using lots of power with the steering on full lock. The real downside of the 10 spline ones is the lack of an upgrade path. For the 2008 OBC with a much more powerful engine I couldn't risk the standard shafts anymore. I could have had the 10 spline ARBs converted to 24 spline but it actually worked out cheaper to sell the 10 splines on and buy new 24s. If I were buying new I think I'd always go for 24 spline these days, simply because it gives you an easy upgrade path at a later stage, especially for the front where a breakage can cost you a lot of time compared to a rear which will only lose you a few minutes if you have the right kit with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I'm currently running a 24spline detroit locker in the rear and 10spline front ARB on standard shafts/cv's. Haven't broken anything yet, but since having it my 200,000m CV's have suddenly started to get noisy and I want to replace them asap. I'm not heavy right footed and only really give it the beans in a situation where a tire suddenly won't grab. Running 255/85R16 BFG muds. The HD 10spline shaft prices are crazy, if I didn't get the 10 ARB at a good price I would have gone 24, as everyone says the upgrade path is much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Bowie69 - It's interesting that you haven't broken anything. What vehicle is the locker in? As shown in my sig.... the V8 is running ~ 220BHP, vehicle weight: 2.5t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyWinny Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Thank you all for your replies. It does seem like I might get away with running the 10 spline locker if I am careful but, yes, 24 spline is the best way forward. Thanks to Retroanaconda for pointing out that the upgraded 24 spline shafts will fit my standard CV joints which would allow me to spread the cost of going to 24 spline i.e. run a 24 spline locker with upgraded shafts and standad CV joints then at a later point in time upgrade the CV joints. I'll give it some more thought but in the mean time I'll tell my wife how beautiful she looks and how much better a 24 spline ARB locker is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyv8 Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 i ran 10 spline arb,s all last year, with just one failure due to driver error, and i was on standard shafts, but i did use the gkn clutch slip hubs front and rear. these are a great idea and a cheaper solution for the 10 spline users other than the hd shafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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