Fitting PAS to a series using standard LR parts

[TheRecklessEngineer]

The vehicle in question here is a 1979 series 3 with a Range Rover 3.5 V8 (Megasquirt and EDIS) stuffed in the front (with a series gearbox on the back). As such, there's a little more wiggle room under the bonnet than you'd normally find in a series vehicle. It's also made fitting the PAS pump to the engine somewhat easier - as of course the donor rangie had it fitted as standard.

Parts used are a 4 bolt LR steering box, Defender steering column (upper and lower parts), RR pump and reservoir. Modifications include welding in new crossmembers, general bracketry and plumbing.

Amongst the usual problems with series steering, my lock was particularly poor. The cause of this became obvious when I disassembled the steering box - the arm had snapped leaving a chunk of metal to restrict movement in a particular direction.

One might say, it's buggered!

So, to starting at the beginning - remove series steering in its entirety:

As I'll be needing to move the front crossmember, to hold everything in line whilst I cut out the old one and weld in the new one, I welded a lump of 5mm angle across the front dumb irons.

Attacked with the angle grinder and removed front crossmember:

Originally, I was going to try and fit a steering column from a discovery, as I happen to have one in the 'shed of mystery'. However, I wanted an easier solution, so a trip to the scrap yard and I found a steering column from a mid 90's Defender. I got the lower column and associated bracketry as well:

This bolts straight on to the bulkhead:

So with the column roughly in position, I can fit the lower column and G-clamp the 4 bolt PAS box to the chassis to see where it will sit. There is a clearance issue between the drop arm and the diff - I had to make sure to site the box far enough forwards to be able to clear the diff, but not so far forwards as to cause problems with the upper and lower columns. A bit of fiddling and it will line up.

Once the position of the box is marked, a new crossmember can be fabricated. I used a lump of 50x100mm box as it's about the right size and I had some lying around. I sacrificed one badger to my MIG welder and stuck it all together.

With the crossmember in, I made a cardboard template to locate the bolts for the box. I covered the bolt holes on the box with grease and then pressed the cardboard onto it, leaving me with a marked piece of cardboard.

Sticking holes in the middle of the marks in the cardboard, the chassis can be marked and then drilled.

Once the holes are drilled, crush tubes can be fitted and then the whole lot welded up. I missed getting photos of this - a bit of a shame as it gave me an excuse to use my shiny new TIG welder

So once it's all welded up, the box can be trial fitted. It fits! Woo!

Now some bracketry needs to be made to hold the end of the steering column. There is a clearance issue between the bulkhead/chassis bracket and the bearing housing on the end of the column. A little fettling with the grinder and the column will sit straight without the bracket in the way.

You can see in the last image how the housing on the column sits right where the bracket was. With another badger sacrificed to the MIG welder, a little bit of 2.5mm angle can be stuck on to re-enforce the bracket, and provide a mounting surface for the bearing housing.

A bit of box section sits very nicely between the two, and gets the wheel at a nice angle too. I TIG'd two M8 nuts into the box as access to the back will be restricted.

And it all welded together:

The whole column/box assembly trial fitted:

The wheel sits here.

At this point I found an unforseen issue. The series TRE isn't long enough to reach through the drop arm on the steering box sufficiently to get a split pin on the end.

However, in my 'shed of mystery' I had a Discovery TRE from the days when I drove a Discovery. It is, unfortunately, in a blue box. It does, however, fit! I'm sure it will only last about 20 miles, at which point I'll replace it with a proper one.

At this point, I disassembled the lot and gave it all a coat of Screwfix No Nonsense Metal paint. Damned good stuff - sticks like sticky stuff to a badgers fur.

And when it's all dry, I reassembled the lot.

At this point, I tested it. No power assistance (obviously), but I've achieved the lock of my dreams.

Now my attention turned to mounting the PAS pump. As it's a rangie engine I managed to find all the brackets to mount the pump. However, to fit the alternator inside the series wing, I needed to previously modify the bracket. My modifications fouled the PAS pump, so I had to modify my modifications. It now looks like this:

And everything mounted. Fortunately the standard rangie belts fit, even with my modified bracket.

A strip of ally was beaten into a bracket shape for the fluid reservoir, and mounted on the passenger side wing.

I needed something to hold all the pipework and radiator. So, I used a length of angle and welded it behind the box. This should also help the strength of the chassis as there are now two front crossmembers.

The angle is thick enough to be able to tap holes for P clips. This makes it much neater than using self tappers as I have previously. The original return line fits quite nicely with a little adjustment, but I'll need to have a new pressure line made up by a hydraulic hose place. Brake line re-routed across the new crossmember too.

With a trial fit of the front panel (considerably fettled from a standard series panel), it fouls on a section of the PAS box, so fettled with the grinder, and in a fit of efficiency I welded a section of metal to retain the strength of the panel.

And this is currently where I'm at. The next instalment will involve a new radiator and custom hydraulic hoses.

[Bowie69]

Very nice work

[mickeyw]

Looking very good indeed.

How do you get on with the oil filter's proximity to the front diff? I had to use a remote filter head.

[TheRecklessEngineer]

How do you get on with the oil filter's proximity to the front diff? I had to use a remote filter head.

Errrmm....yes. I have that issue. The oil filter has been 'reshaped' to fit around the diff.

If it turns out that I'm not bankrupted by the hydraulic hose manufacturer, then I might get a remote filter head.

[mickeyw]

Errrmm....yes. I have that issue. The oil filter has been 'reshaped' to fit around the diff.

If it turns out that I'm not bankrupted by the hydraulic hose manufacturer, then I might get a remote filter head.

I'm sure I have read somewhere that a td5 oil filter will fit the thread and is much thinner, but can still be clouted if you hit a big enough bump. You may get away with it for road use, but I would want to change a smaller filter more frequently.

[Snagger]

That looks like a very high quality installation. Just two questions:

1) Is the box section for the bottom end of the steering column welded to the angle you attached to the old steering box support (it's a little hard to see in the photos), and;

2) Does that second cross member (the angle one) for the radiator support prevent engine being pulled forwards for removal, instead requiring the transmission to move aft to disengage the clutch and input pinion before lifting the engine straight up? Again, it's hard to tell from photos as it's impossible to gauge the depth of the clearance between that cross member and the crank pulley.

I'm impressed at how quickly you've managed this project.

[TheRecklessEngineer]

Hi Snagger,

In answer to your questions -

1) Yes it is.

2) I hope so, but I was restricted by the PAS box on the drivers side by how far forward I can place it. If there isn't, then I'll have to pull the crank pulley off - a bit of a PITA, but not the end of the world.

I actually have a military style gearbox crossmember, so I could just drop the box down and angle the engine up and bring it out that way.

The next project will be an LT77, so I might yet have to remove it again if I'm short on space.

[FridgeFreezer]

I have a spare remote filter kit here if you want.

On mine I chopped the rad panel cowling all the way back & put the radiator on top of the front x-member, makes for loadsa space in the engine bay.

[TheRecklessEngineer]

PM sent!

My new front crossmember sits just in front of the front panel, so I can't mount the radiator on it. I think you might have some sort of special axles or something on yours?

[FridgeFreezer]

My axles is in the standard place though

My x-member is also under the front panel, but I have a couple of upstand brackets behind it with a strip of box to hold the radiator.

[tuko]

Hej Reckless One,

Thanks for providing us with this great write up and all the pictures, very inspiring. In April when I finally get my hands on the parts that I've already bought, I'll be attacking the same project.

Keep us in the loop on how this works once you have the new hoses.

Cheers,

Todd.

[ady 1]

hi to all

one for the tech archive i think

[Soren Frimodt]

Very nice and tidy job

[Retroanaconda]

Nicely done!

Wish I hadn't gone and put a shiny galvanised chassis on mine now

[Snagger]

One solution to that angle cross member and engine removal space would be to cut it off again leaving an inch or two attached to the chassis rails and then cut a fresh full-length cross member, drill some bolt holes in the remaining stubs and have it a removable cross member, or even just use flitch plates to re-use the same length of angle in its current alignment.

As for the Britpart rod end, I have a deep distrust of that brand, but in fairness, their rod ends are quite good - I put a set on my RRC five or six years ago, well before I started my self-imposed boycott on their brand, and they are still absolutely mint. I'm sure you'd be keeping an eye on all of the rod ends on your routine servicing, so it won't need any special treatment.

[Jon White]

When I fitted PAS to mine, I found that in order to get the balljoint on the drop arm at the same point as it was when using the series steering relay it was necessary to raise the steering box such that the lower bolt holes came through approximately in the centre of the chassis rail. I then has to fabricate mounts on top of the chassis rail for the upper bolts and had to cut one of the lower lugs off the steering box. Are you sure that at extreme articulation you will have sufficient clearance? Looking at your photos it looks like at full compression on the offside front suspension, your drop arm may foul on the leaf spring - it may just be the angle you photo is taken at, but might be worth checking.

If you'd used the defender column and bottom mount, it come with a bracket that picks up the bottom bearing and bolts through the footwell, in fact two of the 4 bolt holes already line up! This puts the steering wheel a couple of inches nearer to the driver, but does give the advantage that you can use the defender switchgear, and the defender column shroud will then fit unmodified. You'll find that the series switchgear will not fit without substantial modification, and the indicator cancelling will not work otherwise.

In addition you may need to fabricate a support for the upper column that bolts behind the dash (I note you have cut the defender one off) as I found there was too much flex in the defender column without this (it seems that the series column is far more substantial).

HTH

Jon

[Gremlin]

What Jon said, i tried mounting it lower and it seemed to me that it would foul things, so i mounted it higher. This also made it possible to tuck in the new x member right under the box, and also using one of the lugs at the bottom to secure the box better (the other lug needs to be chopped off)

Pics

G

[Snagger]

Very neat, Grem - that mounting looks indestructible. One thing of minor concern, though, is that while you have mounted the PAS box high to get the same amount of protrusion as the relay had, the fairly straight drop arm looks very close to the dumb iron. Wouldn't a swan-necked (Defender?) arm give better clearance between the TRE nut and the dumb iron and also give a flatter drag link, resulting in less bump steer? I can see the need to mount the PAS box up high to ensure clearance from the diff as the suspension flexes, but like most things, one solution can bring around other issues...

[Gremlin]

Yes using the swan neck would be better as the nut just clears the chassis dumb iron, and in fact i have a little bump steer.

Good observation! Some day i will change the arm but right now i am not to bothered as its very minimal, you only feel it on long dips in the road at high speed while the suspension compresses.

G

[tuko]

If you'd used the defender column and bottom mount, it come with a bracket that picks up the bottom bearing and bolts through the footwell, in fact two of the 4 bolt holes already line up! This puts the steering wheel a couple of inches nearer to the driver, but does give the advantage that you can use the defender switchgear, and the defender column shroud will then fit unmodified. You'll find that the series switchgear will not fit without substantial modification, and the indicator cancelling will not work otherwise.

In addition you may need to fabricate a support for the upper column that bolts behind the dash (I note you have cut the defender one off) as I found there was too much flex in the defender column without this (it seems that the series column is far more substantial).

HTH

Jon

Jon,

Using the Defender switch gear, does that give any advantage vers the original switches in the dash? ie: lights and wiper switches

The indicator stalk, I can see from various images that it would be hard to make fit so if you use the Defender indicator stalk, you would need the steel mounting cage from under the shroud?

The key barrel, didn't I read many years ago that the early 90/110 key barrel is the same as a series 3? I don't know why but that is stuck in my head from previous works/conversions on my hybrid.

Can you post an image of your steering wheel so we can see how far away it sits from the dash?

Cheers,

Todd.

[Jon White]

I only use the column stalks - the light switch is still on the dash in the standard series position. However i do use the defedner waspe wipe stalk as I fin d it less fussy than the series one, plus it has the extra positions so if you use the defender wiper motor and relay unit you can have two spped wipers, intermittent wipe, plus the wiper auto wipe when you press the washers. Easy to wire up and works well.

Ther defender steering lock is the same as the series one, except that it has an extra tapped hole in the bottom of of it to secure the shroud. A series one is easily modified however. The position that the steering lock is fitted to the column means that if you dont fit the column as I have done then the ignition lock will disappear down the inside of the dash as the defender column is longer at the steering wheel end. In short it all fits nicely and snugly using the defender bits up to the series dash.

I'll take a photo at some point but it probably wont be till the weekend as I wont be home in the daylight until then.

Jon

[FridgeFreezer]

I used the Defender column in stock place with Series indicator stalk and it seems fine. What I did do, which made a big difference, is add a brace back to the bulkhead for the column (like Defenders have) which stops the wheel wobbling around on rough ground.

[lostalot]

hi does the pas box end up outside the rad panel ? im due to start on my 109 soon and i dont want to fit a late type front

can you post a photo is you can

thanks

[Gremlin]

No it goes exactly behind the panel, you will probably need to trip the panel lip if you mount it low.

G

[TheRecklessEngineer]

When I fitted PAS to mine, I found that in order to get the balljoint on the drop arm at the same point as it was when using the series steering relay it was necessary to raise the steering box such that the lower bolt holes came through approximately in the centre of the chassis rail.

If you'd used the defender column and bottom mount, it come with a bracket that picks up the bottom bearing and bolts through the footwell, in fact two of the 4 bolt holes already line up!

In addition you may need to fabricate a support for the upper column that bolts behind the dash (I note you have cut the defender one off) as I found there was too much flex in the defender column without this (it seems that the series column is far more substantial).

HTH

Jon

Hi Jon,

Yes, I found that issue - actually after I mounted the box. However, I think I'm ok. From what testing I've managed in the workshop, I've got about 15mm clearance between the TRE and the spring at full deflection. I'll have to check again when she's outside and I can actually flex it in reality.

I also got the bracket that sits on the bulkhead for the bottom end of the steering column. However, I found that the lower steering column then pulled the box too close the front axle for comfort. It would clear, but it was tight. I'd prefer to keep the wheel in the standard position and shift the box forward and make for better clearance.

So far, the column appears quite stiff - I might add another bracket defender style later on. I'll have to try it out though.