Jump to content

Rear Winch Mounting - Options ?


Recommended Posts

As I now have two winches, I'm wanting to mount my Warn X9 in\on the rear of my 90.

I've done a search on here and not found anything conclusive.

I don't want to mount it under the floor, it would get covered in crud, couldn't observe bunching, hard to get to controls, maintenance etc.

I've seen the rear bumpers from here

http://www.douglassmotors.co.uk/4x4/another_section.html

and I do like them - apart from the price !

An option would be to put it inside the load area and operate with the door open, or cut the door to go around the fairlead flush mounted with rear crossmember - has anyone done this ?

If someone has mounted one in the load area, whereabouts was it positioned for optimum mounting to the chassis ?

If any body has got any details\pictures of similar installations I would be grateful to see them.

Fabrication\welding isn't an issue for me.

Unless someone can come up with a better option, I may well make a bumper similar :ph34r: to the one above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's your intended use?

The overhang on that bumper you've linked to is something horrific!

What else have you got in the back of the 90? what do you use it for?

My 90 is more of a play thing than anything else, it's definitely a second car.

I enjoy working on it,modifying it, breaking it offroading and then repairing it. ( well I did my Disco, haven't got this one where I want it yet )

Currently there is nothing in the back ( it's a hardtop by the way ) - loss of load space wouldn't be the end of the world.

I was toying with the idea of chequer plating the load space and making it flush over from the wheel arches to form a storage area for all my off road gear.

I hear what you're saying about the overhang, but I had a Disco before this one, so would still be well ahaed of the game compared to that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My vote is against the bulkhead behind the seats, with the rope going down through the floor, round a pulley/bar, and out through the rear crossmember.

Has this been done ? Any details ?

I quite like the idea, how would the winch be orientated ?

and mounting for the pulley ? Would off centre pulls cause a problem ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My vote is against the bulkhead behind the seats, with the rope going down through the floor, round a pulley/bar, and out through the rear crossmember.

This is an option, or you can just run the rope straight out, through a circular fairlead (no need for a slot as the winch and fairlead are a good metre or so apart). You could just remove the rear door when off-roading, and use something very similar to an upside-down Dixon-Bate arrangement that means you can remove/fit the fairlead easily.

The other option would be to make a wide and deep enough U shape in the cross member that the winch sits behind it, but below the floor, then make an access hatch in the floor to get to the winch.

Tha'ts got to be the most compact option, IMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has this been done ? Any details ?

I quite like the idea, how would the winch be orientated ?

and mounting for the pulley ? Would off centre pulls cause a problem ?

I'm not sure. I would have thought it has been done, but not by anyone I know of I'm afraid!

I would say mount-wise you'd need to tie it into the chassis. It would be easier with a roll cage as you could mount it vertically to that, but otherwise you'd need to make up a frame that came up through the floor off the chassis.

The pulley would only be dealing with force from the rear crossmember, with a circular fairlead on the rear face of that a pull could come in any direction in a (theoretical) 180 degree arc from the rear of the vehicle. All the sideways forces will be felt by the fairlead (and rear crossmember). Mounting for the pulley would have to be sufficiently strong and take off the chassis too of course.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about, mounting it at the front of the tub as described, but having a bracket on a sort of towbar, if you have one where a circular fairlead could be dropped in when needed, with an access flap in the rear door, freespool etc could probably be reached from the drivers seat too..... the flap in the door would need to be big enough to get the fairlead thingy through, so that it could be keopt inside with the winch.... only drawback to this is that you effectively lose the whole payload area, i have my spare wheel laid flat in the back with a lid over it so i have a totaly flat floor..... i also have a storage bin on the passenger side with strops etc in it.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A circular fairlead will only work with rope, NOT wire...............

with the rope going out inder the floor option, you'd end up with a decent size hole in the floor to allow the wire/rope to go side to side on the winch drum, however, i suspect that rather than a 'pulley' as such under the floor, you could cope with a roller firalead if wire, or alloy if rope.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, yes, the circular fairlead comment assumed rope, rather than wire.

If you go for the winch above/wire under the floor option, the turning point is going to need some serious bracing, as all the winching effort will be trying to pull it up and back. Likewise it would change the design of the winch mounts - the pull would change direction from the rear, to straight down - on to the previously mentioned mount for the pivot, which would also be part of the main winch mount..

If you use a fairlead, it will be under constant loading, with the wire going through 90 degrees. This is beyond the design spec, so it'd be interesting to see how long it lasts. Of course, you won't be able to see it....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, yes, the circular fairlead comment assumed rope, rather than wire.

If you go for the winch above/wire under the floor option, the turning point is going to need some serious bracing, as all the winching effort will be trying to pull it up and back. Likewise it would change the design of the winch mounts - the pull would change direction from the rear, to straight down - on to the previously mentioned mount for the pivot, which would also be part of the main winch mount..

If you use a fairlead, it will be under constant loading, with the wire going through 90 degrees. This is beyond the design spec, so it'd be interesting to see how long it lasts. Of course, you won't be able to see it....

I agree - I like the idea in principal, but think it will put undue stress on all parts.

I'm leaning towards either mounting inside the load space with some form of fairlead inline with the rear door, either removeable or with door cut around it ( if that makes sense ? )

or

fabricating a full bumper as above and mounting the winch in that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our rear winch on our 110 is mounted in rear crossmember.

Have rear bumperettes fitted and the winch sticks out no further then them, about 3"/75mm. Floor pan cut for about 2"/50mm and refitted.

Solenoid pack sat on top of rear n/s wheel box.

Yes it works. No effect on departure angle or tow ball

HTH

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bish's fab fabbed up rear winch setup is here:

http://forums.lr4x4....=1

His winch was mounted right behind the bulkhead (between the roll hoop mounts actually), easy reach for freespool/watching rope being spooled back in :)Actuially, you can see the winch in his for sale post:

http://forums.lr4x4....opic=53877&st=0

Oh, and the search revealed the mounting plate too:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=37288&st=0&p=358000&hl=fairlead&fromsearch=1entry358000

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our rear winch on our 110 is mounted in rear crossmember.

Have rear bumperettes fitted and the winch sticks out no further then them, about 3"/75mm. Floor pan cut for about 2"/50mm and refitted.

Solenoid pack sat on top of rear n/s wheel box.

Yes it works. No effect on departure angle or tow ball

HTH

Brendan

Hi Brendan

Any chance of any pics please.

Thanks

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rob,

See you are at Bedale. Our red 110 will be on the 4x4 Overlander stand at Driffield May 7/8th so you would be able to have a good look at the set up there.

Anyway a photo for you

IMG_2306.jpg

HTH

Brendan

Thanks Brendan

I'll pop over for a chat.

Hope you don't mind me bringing a tape and drawing materials :D

Cheers

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my old one

I cut out the middle of the rear cross member and stuck the winch in there

0c121d20.jpg

Thanks for the pic.

Yours and Brendan's posts might lead me to getting the grinder out on the rear crossmember.

Did you brace the tray back to the chassis ?

Any pics of installation ?

Cheers

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rob,

See you are at Bedale. Our red 110 will be on the 4x4 Overlander stand at Driffield May 7/8th so you would be able to have a good look at the set up there.

HTH

Brendan

That's the same as this pic I saved to my hard drive a while ago ... very neat :-)

post-10144-0-65170900-1298577451_thumb.jpg

Love to see installation pics of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So..........if you are going to go to all the trouble to alter the fragile (at best) standard crossmember, why not fabricate a full rear crossmember that has a winch tray built into it? Something like the Devon 4x4 or North Off Road ones??

I'm sure there are a few examples of home-made rear winch crossmembers on here...

Also, why not have the winch under the floor?? Mount the solenoids above the wheel box so you can reach the remote socket, or run some cables to the dashboard and fit a switch there.

If you don't mind me saying, it doesn't sound like you are overly precious about the panel work... It is far easier to cut a panel out of the floor and make it look half decent than it is to cut the rear door about. You could even fit a hinged panel with a rubber seal around it to keep the worst of the water out of the rear tub area.

In terms of maintenance - 4 bolts and 4 cables to undo/disconnect and the winch is out on the floor and onto the bench to be worked on. I can't remember how many times my rear winch has been in/out, but I know it only tkes 10 minutes to do.

There are also a few more ideas here:

click me first...

click me second...

more ideas here...

and a load more links in here...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy