eds Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 This has been along time coming with MOT looming. I have gathered some bits but need some more. I have got the QT HD drag link and damper relocation bracket. I have QH greaseable TRE one LH thread and one RH thread. I also have got steering arm Part Number NTC9236. Can someone confirm this is the right steering arm. I also wish to buy an OME steering damper. Can someone confirm whether I need the steering damper from a Discovery One or Two? This would lead to identifying which steering damper I need OMESD11 or OMESD02? Sorry if this should be in parts number request! Thanks Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I also have got steering arm Part Number NTC9236. Can someone confirm this is the right steering arm. Looks like it, the only other option is NTC9235 which is for LHD vehicles only, I'm assuming you are RHD I have this conversion on mine, well worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Thanks for the confirmation Any news about the steering damper? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedx Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I used NTC9236 on my conversion, with the original steering damper. Surely you need to use an OME Defender damper as it goes in the current position? Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 If you need a pin-pin damper it will be a disco 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 I did not realise the defender damper is the answer. I thought it to be too long as the damper relocation bracket requires a smaller length of damper. I need pin to bolt through bracket version. I thought both disco dampers are pin to bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 OK, well RRC, which I though was the same as a disco (I still think it is) will fit fine, and is pin-pin as it sits behind the axle line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I've just done this, last week. The drop arm number is correct for RHD, you need a Defender steering damper plus a bracket to locate the end that goes at the drop arm end. It has to go very close to the end of the drag link to ensure it's at the same distance as the old one. It has a pin plus 2 lock nuts at the chassis end and an eye at the drop arm end. I have a few photo's of the job and the hardest part is getting the old drop arm off!!!! Oh, you need a 34mm socket for the nut and it's done up mental tight. Once that's done it's very straightforward indeed. Rave is very good regarding centreing the steering box and about ensuring the steering wheel ends up centred. Oh the other difficult bit was getting a new 60mm locking washer. I personally won't re-use old one's, but had to order a new one from Land Rover (factory) as no one else seemed to have any and it was only £3 for a genuine one. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 I was wondering about the lock washer... There are different power steering pumps with different washers I think. I was going to wait until it all was apart before I knoew which washer. Do you have any info that would help? Does the power steering box need aligning? I thought it would be off and on as long as it does not move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 My drop arm has 4 master splines, so it can only go on at 90deg. intervals. So you can't really be "a bit" out. BTW there was earlier debate on whether there were centering, or setting up slots/holes. My ex Disco box has a lug with a hole and it's drop arm has a square notch of the same width, my 90's box has neither. Just my theory, but could the notch and hole be for a locking pin when tightening/undoing the nut, rather than rotating the box to full extent thus putting the load on it's internals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I thought I could do it without disturbing the centreing, but it with the effort involved in getting the arm, off it moved significantly. The centreing procedure is dead simple, on a RHD vehicle turn the wheel to fulll left lock, turn the wheel back eaxactly 2 whole turns and the box is centred! You'll then find that the arm will locate on the 4 bigger splines and that the large notch on the back of the drop arm lines up with the vertical hole in the back of the steering box. If you haven't got the hole, then when you put the arm on, you'll find it doesn't point exactly forward but slightly offset, that's correct. There's no strain when you centre the box as nothing is connected to the box and you don't even need the engine on. Couldn't believe how straightforward that went, but it did. You will need the large 60mm lock washer for the Disco arm. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 Is it not the case of undoing the bolt whilst the drag link is attached which will stop the steering box moving. I might even park it close to the curb to stop the wheels moving. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Then I was going to put a puller on the arm to get it off. Plenty of Plus Gas before I start too. Is it not as easy as this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 In theory yes, in practise for me - NO. I soaked mine in Plus gas for 2 days, broke the arm off a puller and ended up cutting the arm through to get it off. The Land Rover puller is horendously expensive as are other heavy duty one's designed for this application. A normal 3 legged type puller a) can't get all 3 legs on due to the shape of the arm, b) just aren't strong enough. I've read of 10 ton pullers not moving it. Using a club hammer to knock it off didn't work and heating is a no go due to the seals in the box. If it has never been off before and been greased on replacement then your chances are slim of pulling it off. The nut is done up to 130Nm! But hey, you may be lucky so good luck - let us know how you get on. Centreing the box and adjusting the steering wheel were dead easy so If the shaft does move it's no big deal. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I would not bother with puller, big hammer, and all that hard work..... It never works, and just puts loads of stress into the steering box, which is not the cheapest part. I would just get straight in there with the grinder, with some very very thin cutting blades, you will need a good supply. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I bought the bits off gwyn lewis at a show last year; they warned me that the steering box nut might need retightening after it had been fitted about 3 weeks, but then would be fine. I haven't got round to fitting it yet , but have had the drop arm off in the past to replace the ball joint.The nut does take a lot of force to get to the correct torque with the box on the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Gent's, Forgive my ignorance but why would you want to do this? What are the advantages? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 You lose the integrated ball joint in the drop arm and instead have a drag link with a standard track-rod end on either side of it. Means the ball joint can be replaced easily as it's a separate part rather than the mission that the drop arm ball joint can be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Cheers for explaining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Instead of buggering about with that really badly designed drop arm ball joint, you replace the drop arm with ball joint with a disco 1 solid drop arm that allows you to use a track rod end instead and saves up to 4 hours of your time to change one over-which as you can appreciate leaves your time to get on with something else Land Rover related lol John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 How often are you replacing drop arm ball joints ? I've only had to do it once in ten years and it was pretty straight forward, although it can be fun getting the bottom plate back in against spring pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Rick, I was changing them every 3-6 months or so,hence why I looked at what else was available and found this conversion, But in my defence I was using what must've been the predecessor to B***part as anything that I bought from there never lasted that long-the old adage of buy cheap buy twice rings a bell and I've long learnt to use either genuine or a very good make of aftermarket parts supplier John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 *@%& John, I'd be looking for something else/some other way too FWIW grease type can make a difference in life as well. A calcium sulfonate thickened grease resists water washout/rust much better than any lithium or even aluminium based grease, and lots of lubricating solids like moly is a good thing in low speed, high load applications like ball joints (and sliding splines) I use a CAT 5% moly, calcium sulfonate grease for chassis lubrication as it's easy to get here. (CAT and Komatsu dominate the heavy machinery/mining market here and I live between two large coal mining areas) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Not looking forward to getting the drop arm off listening to all this advice I'll report back on whether I cut the whole shaft off by accident which is usually what happens to me. No matter what I make or mend something always goes wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 mine took just over 20ton in our big 60ton hydraulic press at work-went with a real loud bang. Not the easiest shape thing to jig up either but far easier though than trying to do it in situ. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Assuming I am right in thinking the nut to take the steering drop arm off is 1' 5/16" on a 200tdi 93 reg 110 Which one would you buy to be most useful over time and for this job? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITOOL-ENGLAND-1-2-SD-AF-1-5-16-BI-HEXAGON-SOCKET-NEW-/130467014611?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6070a7d3#ht_765wt_1163 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Socket-Air-Impact-1-5-16-1-2-D-925-/180753370936?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a15bd8f38#ht_2956wt_1396 I am not sure what makes an air impact socket special. Or whether bi hex or single hex is better Which would you buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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