shotrock Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I am going to replacing the rear discs at the weekend. The only thing I am unsure about is how tight to wind up the hub nut against the bearing. The manual gives the torque for the locking nut only. Any replies appreciated. Shotrock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I'd say tight enough to remove all the play you can feel by grabbing the disc and wobbling. Some people recommend tightening until it starts to bind and then backing off 1/4 turn. Either way would be good, I do it by feel as per the former method above. The proper method as per workshop manual is to use a DTI to measure the hub endfloat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 If this is a 300tdi or earlier then here is what I normally do: tighten the first hub nut to 50 nm then back it off to 90 degrees, then re-tighten the nut up to 10nm and then apply the lock tab washer, I then normally use an air gun and tighten the outer lock nut up bloody tight hth John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 From memory the inner is taken up to 60Nm and then backed off 90 degrees and retightened to 4Nm (hand tight) lock the washer and then tighten the outer lock nut to 90Mn and tag the washer over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 http://landytown.myfastforum.org/about7583.html All you need for series two up to and including 300Tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 DTI is the way to go. Manual says 0.10mm to 0.05mm from memory. DTI's are a cheap from ebay I aim for 0.15mm before torquing up the outer hub nut to end up with the right float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 There are a few ways of doing this and everyone has there own, there are threads on here that cover this quite well to the "n'th" detail. - one tip however you end up doing it, after its first reasonable run - 10-20 min drive, just jump out and have a feel around the hubs with the back of your hand, to see if there is any excessive heat, they will probably feel a gentle warm temp anyways, but anything above that and its a sure sign you've done them up too tight, if you check this right away it wont do it much harm, but prolonged running with them overtight will cause them damage. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Yes Mav. I was taught that way in 1958 on a bus hub. The hub bearings I have on me Defender are the same ones that came on it when I bought it 130,000 miles ago. Not everybody has access to a DTi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 tighten the inner to 50 (or 65nm) and then slacken off and tighten to 10nm. Then do the outer to 65nm. I have this from the workshop manual and its hand copied in my book which is in the centre cubby. Its been used a few times in Africa already........ I would guess that as long as it feels right when turning the job is OK. I agree that a hot hub is a sign that you've done it too tight. My recent 450c hub was a little to hot to check by hand ! ((I find 65nm means i din't have to change the torque wrench....)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotrock Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thanks to everone on there replies.... Will let you know after the weekend how I got on. Shotrock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 What works for me is to fit the hub and turn the first hub night up to the bearings by fingers. Then I grease up the outside of the box spanner and tighten the nut with only a light to moderate grip with a single hand on the spanner. Turn the hub a few times back and forth, give it a tug or two and generally move it around to make sure the inboard bearing is seated against the stub axle's seal land, then loosen and re-tighten the nut in the same way with the spanner. The grease prevents you from over-tightening; the spanner will slip through your hand first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 i've always just tightened the inner up until i can feel the hub 'drag' and then loosen the nut off 1/4 turn until the 'drag' disappears. then bung the lock tab on and do the outer nut up tight. never had any problems doing them that way. one thing to note when doing it, you pack the bearings full of grease and do them in whatever method you decide to pick and then run them. the grease squeezes out of everywhere and within 10 miles they can feel loose. Hence why i always spin the hub as i;m tightening the nut so that the grease 'settles' around the bearing and race and you get a true seat whilst tightening them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotrock Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well thanks everyone for there help. Have all the parts now and just waiting for the weekend when I can get on with it, Cheers Shotrock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 What works for me is to fit the hub and turn the first hub night up to the bearings by fingers. Then I grease up the outside of the box spanner and tighten the nut with only a light to moderate grip with a single hand on the spanner. Turn the hub a few times back and forth, give it a tug or two and generally move it around to make sure the inboard bearing is seated against the stub axle's seal land, then loosen and re-tighten the nut in the same way with the spanner. The grease prevents you from over-tightening; the spanner will slip through your hand first. +1 never had bearing probs in 6 years of 110 ownership Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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