landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 You might find they'll do yours on the cheap with left overs from a bigger job if you're prepared to wait? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Other option is to hire a concrete grinder and grind it flat yourself.. No idea of price or where to hire a machine like that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Anyone got any bright ideas for dealing with this? I would have thought most skims and levelling compounds wouldn't be strong enough to take things like jack wheels Depends upon the thickness of the levelling compound layer. I had a workshop with a vinyl compound on the floor a mate father laid for us; about 10mm thick at most. It did crack near a thin edge (floor was a mess before we started) but was fine with trolley jacks lifting usual range of LR and LR-based machines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Geoff - I have exactly the stuff for your flooring woes - I used Cementone Cempolay Ultra Strong Self Levelling Floor Compound (blue bag) it's outdoors-rated heavy-duty screed, about £30 a bag from Jewsons:http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=92077&p=811303Got a plasterer to throw it down, took him all of a couple of hours from starting his cuppa to smoking a celebratory rollup. I did paint it with epoxy resin (from Ask Coatings) which makes for uber loveliness. So far it's taken a fair bit of abuse, had a loaded engine crane rolled round on it, bits of metal dropped on it, etc. and has been rock solid. Likewise the epoxy floor paint has held really well to all manner of things being dropped on it & dragged across it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'll look into that - might get the company doing the drive to quote for it (be more than getting a local plasterer in, but they'll be on site anyway and it may come with a guarantee that way). I could get the builders to do it, but will it finish up flat...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 It'll never be mirror-smooth but as it's runnier than concrete a half competent builder with a smooth float should be able to throw it down reasonably level. Certainly it should take out the major lumps & bumps on its own as it settles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 i agree self levelling compound is just that, throw it down, trowel it out roughly level and it will settle dead level every time. ive used the cheap screwfix stuff loads and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Hmm, okay. Might just get the builders to sort their own mess then... They did fetch a concrete grinder as soon as they realised it was setting too fast to get it level, and ground the worst off, but there're still sizeable dips in places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 In my garage there was the old old floor with a fair few pits etc., then an old new bit where they'd taken down a prefab garage, widened the slab by pouring extra concrete round the outside, and then the new new bit that our builders did which I specifically asked them to make smooth. You can see the old old (centre, near camera) and old new (edges) in this photo with white SBR (sealer) brushed on puddling in the imperfections: This is about the best shot (from the other end) that shows up the level-ness of the final floor, the far end is the old half and was screeded as described, the near end is the new smooth concrete bit and was just painted: You wouldn't play snooker on it but you can roll jacks, welders, engine cranes, and tool cabs round on it quite beautifully. I am really very chuffed with it and consider it well worth the money. Just a shame you can't see 95% of the floor for piles of junk right now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 a shame you can't see 95% of the floor for piles of junk right now! I think this is how most workshops end up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I think this is how most workshops end up! You can see as much as 5% the floor?! I bet you can only see about 1% of mine at the most! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Only because I had a recent tidy up... you have seen my for sale thread, right? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=95452&hl= 3 dustbins fulls of rubbish, large wheel barrow of scrap metal, and a bad back even a few days later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Seeing the floor at all in the old garage (with no vehicle in it) was a good day... I'm kind of hoping the much larger new garage will mean I can keep it a little less stacked... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Two words for you Geoff - PALLET RACKING. One bay holds more than a whole garage full of regular shelving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Decent shelving is on my list, but unlikely to be right away given what we've already done to the savings over the last six months (as well as the garage we've built a dining room and a utility room/shower room on the house and gutted the kitchen back to bare brick including removing a chimney breast - oh, and the bedroom above it too as it turned out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Sounds like upstairs plaster fell off by itself then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Sounds like upstairs plaster fell off by itself then? Not far off - we were only planning on removing the top part of the chimney breast and putting in a new window, then making good, but the old lime plaster wasn't really attached to the bricks any more and didn't leave us with decent edge to work from so we ended up pulling it all down and replastering in there. Nothing like as horrible as when we had to do the same in the hall a couple of years ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Been doing a lot of that in a friends old 1930's bungalow. End up chasing it back across the whole wall rather than just the patch I wanted out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Sounds familiar - our house was built somewhere between 1901 and 1906, so it's all very dry lime plaster. It's fine if you don't touch it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Trying to take back ~4" of plaster to tie in the bricks resulted in chasing the plaster across a 6' wall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Trying to take back ~4" of plaster to tie in the bricks resulted in chasing the plaster across a 6' wall! My house was built in 1900 (at least that's what it says on the front) and has the same plaster, if you don't want to take it all off cut it with either a Fein oscillating tool or similar..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 It still did it even with a disk cut down the plaster. I suspect most away loose to begin with, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 My house was built in 1900 (at least that's what it says on the front) and has the same plaster, if you don't want to take it all off cut it with either a Fein oscillating tool or similar..... If the plaster is already blown it doesn't matter how careful you are, you'll never get back to a stable edge. Small repairs are okay(ish) - you can stabilise it with PVA - but anything more than that and you have no chance of either a solid wall or an acceptable finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Insulated plasterboard! Brilliant stuff. Just done the guest bedroom in this - 30mm and 12 mm, takes up the same space as the original lime plaster, which is now acting as underfilling for the hard standing at the new workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Yup, did my office in 40mm/12mm board, really lovely stuff, so fast to put up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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