Retroanaconda Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Very kind of you Mo! P.M. sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 Ok, so thanks to Mo's kind offer I made the repair today: Had to drill the corresponding hole in the timing chest out another 0.5mm to enable to bolt to screw in during a test-fit, obviously the alignment of the insert wasn't 100% but it screws in fine now! Now at this stage, building the front end back up Thanks for the help all. Just hope nothing leaks when it goes back together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Splendid, James Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 you might remember my issue with the lower inner bolt on my 200tdi, I had to drill & grind it out with a carbide cutter, managed to unscrew the very last remains of the bolt without trashing the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Got the rest of the timing chest back together yesterday evening, but found that my dealer had provided me with a 300Tdi water pump gasket not a 200Tdi one! When I queried them the chap said "Oh... I thought all the Tdi engines were the same" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Got the rest of the timing chest back together yesterday evening, but found that my dealer had provided me with a 300Tdi water pump gasket not a 200Tdi one! When I queried them the chap said "Oh... I thought all the Tdi engines were the same" Good to see a well informed dealer network! You could maybe forgive them for something deep inside the engine that is rarely changed but you'd think they'd sell a few water pump gaskets..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Well they're getting me the correct one in tomorrow, so hopefully I can then get the rest of the engine bay back together. Going to take the sump off and give it a clean out, partly because it could probably do with doing and partly because I've been drilling the engine block and whilst I did plug the gap at the bottom who knows what might have fallen in... Not looking forward to doing that, there's a lot of congealed oil/mud/'stuff' all around the bottom of the engine block and sump pan. Going to be one of those jobs where you have have to get messy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 take it to the garage for a jet wash, leave them the carp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Bit hard to do without starting the engine though....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 ah...not back together yet...doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Yep, she 'aint going anywhere until she's running, and she 'aint running until I've put some oil in, and the oil 'aint going in until I've had the sump off and cleaned it out... you get the idea! Today's progress left me with this: I'd forgotten how much of a bugger the fan cowl is to fit, have to take the top hose off and squeeze it in between the bottom hose and oil cooler pipes. Goes, but only just! I think the engine is pretty much all ready to go, got to nip to the motor factors tomorrow morning and pick up some new hose clips for the inter-cooler hosing, and some antifreeze. Then I'll get the sump done, fill it with oil/water and see if it runs! Have to admit I'm a little nervous about starting it up. Don't know what it is about doing timing belts but something always nags at my mind saying "what if you didn't do this up" or the like. There's also the possibility that it will pee oil or water everywhere, but I'll never know until I fire it up again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Well that was a hateful job, lying underneath the car getting covered in years' worth of mud/oil/crud. Twenty odd bolts to undo and then the world's strongest sealant to remove from the bottom of the ladder frame. Wasn't even any sludge in there! Guess that shows the engine has had regular oil changes, it certainly has since I've had it but there's a fair bit of history before that to account for! Still, it's done and sealed back up. Letting the RTV set overnight, then I'll fill it back up with 15W40 and pray it doesn't leak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Hehe sounds like your having fun. Same as me better safe to check than to have it niggling at you. My bro is rebuilding a v8 for my trials motor.(well the engine is almost done now) he put the sump in his dish washer I did say your sure he said hell yea!! He spent the. next few days scrubbing!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Still, it's done and sealed back up. Letting the RTV set overnight, then I'll fill it back up with 15W40 and pray it doesn't leak! RTV is fit for gutters and bath tub surrounds, hydrocarbons weaken it and make it swell. The real mechanic or engineer will use Blue Hermetite. (or maybe red) Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 RTV is fit for gutters and bath tub surrounds, hydrocarbons weaken it and make it swell. The real mechanic or engineer will use Blue Hermetite. (or maybe red) Julian. Workshop manual says to use RTV, so that's what I used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 should be Hylomar 2000 RTV as per the manual/parts book. LR number : STC611 http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/products.php?model=Discovery%202&engine=V8&cattext=Engine&subcattext=Gaskets%20and%20Seals&group=Hylomar%20Silicone%20Sealant&year=2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 As long as it's automotive RTV it's the right stuff. Wouldn't use it if it has Wickes on the tube though! For anything with thin paper gaskets I use Wellseal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Yep, automotive RTV from the factors. Designed for sealing joints to oil or water... according to the tube. Anyway, got the car back together today and she started up fine. Gone for a 35-mile drive just to check all is well and nothing blew up so I think *touch wood* that I'm done! Seems to run better too, less rough, but maybe that's just placebo. Turns out the viscous coupling I have is well seized on though, at cold idle you can't stop the fan blades spinning, so I'll have to source a new one of those. Seems my options are £30 Britpart jobbie... or £200+ for one from Land Rover! Any opinions on Britpart viscous couplings? Normally I wouldn't consider it but there's no way I'm spending £200+ on one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 You don't have to go Britpart, https://www.lrdirect.com/ETC7238-Viscous-Unit-Fan-2.5Ddt200/?sfi=etc7238&keep_https=yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 My viscous hub cost me about 65 quid iirc. Was in an all makes box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 I'll give one of those a shot then. After all I can buy nearly four of those before I pay the same as one from Land Rover! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I appreciate that the manual calls for silicone RTV but I've taken a dislike to the stuff over the years and find the non-setting stuff is a better bet for helping out with joint sealing if used in combination with a gasket: Red hylomar is semi-hardening if you prefer. http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=70 It's expensive so probably why the manufacturers don't call for it as it is probably not OE spec. Developed by Rolls Royce...... Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I appreciate that the manual calls for silicone RTV but I've taken a dislike to the stuff over the years and find the non-setting stuff is a better bet for helping out with joint sealing if used in combination with a gasket: Red hylomar is semi-hardening if you prefer. http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=70 It's expensive so probably why the manufacturers don't call for it as it is probably not OE spec. Developed by Rolls Royce...... Julian. There isnt a gasket for the sump on a 200tdi. I use just a gasket where landrover use a gasket. You can get stuff to bits easy and not spend ages getting rid of the old stuff. Nothing worse than smaking the hell out of a nearly new waterpump to get it off because of gasket some sealants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 There isnt a gasket for the sump on a 200tdi.. Sorry, I didn't realise that - should have known better as I had one once! Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickMc Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 The way I get the broken bolts out is to heat it up, shock it with cold water, leave it to cool (too many people heat stuff up then try removing stuff while still warm) and use this style of extractor: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=630634&group_ID=675450 They are a lot cheaper on the van and worth their weight in gold for the holes they can pull you out of, even come with drill guides! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.