Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Congrats and glad that it started first time, just like mine did (so the guide on the VR sensor has worked 2 out of 2) Mine also had a flat spot on hard acceleration with Nige's initial map, the first tuning run sorted that. Hello mate thankyou Yep 100% success rate, tbh I'd be including it in the instructions, I soldered up my EDIS and everything beforehand, I was confident the diagram was right and that I had interpreted correctly so saw no reason why it wouldn't start! Unfortunately got lots to do before I can get it on the road can't wait because even moving round the shop I can tell its gonna be an awesome improvement! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Well, did this tonight, not that remarkable: Finished it, plugged the ECU in and loaded some software. Had a bit of a poke about and I'm pretty lost I'd say! Guess I need to get my heater in, fill it up with coolant, fit the WB sensor and get it set up (some queries there too I think regards the switchover point?) and then just run it up and see what happens, take some live data and start getting my head round it! Early night tonight!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Early night tonight!! Make the most of it, I hear tuning is very addictive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Well done Sam! Congratulations on getting your motor running and thanks to a superbly documented thread. I started to document my 90 build on another forum, but that was even more of a ball-ache and more time consuming than actually dong the build. So i gave up the thread, then gave up the forum. As has been said before, a picture tells a thousand words, keep them coming! Videos are great too. Would the next phase in the build be tagged onto this , or are you likley to start a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Everything will be in this thread mate, if its related to my Megasquirt build or regards the tuning and god knows what else In the near future, I'm not too keen on multiple threads if I'm honest so this one is THE Megasquirt thread, and I have a car build thread and engine build thread on Landyzone. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 I always find it amusing that peeps are worried about getting it running, then find it runs and won't stop ! Its sort of 360 degreees out in their brains ! Thanks to the very clever Ian (BBC) who sussed this for me, when I 1st did mine I sort of thought "Er...." WTF I also know that after the "Fix" was sussed a large number of peeps went "Whoppee" and up to that point had just used a full FIA Kill Switch I haven't yet worked out why some do and some don't, joys of Lucarse wiring looms Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 It makes sense that the lamp holds the relays on which then hold the system on whereas before it was all off the key and obvs the lamp wouldn't power the coil/fuel pump etc. Now Nige, question for you. Thinking on, here's my sequence if events: Fit heater and refill with coolant. Fit LC-1 Wideband and setup megatune accordingly and burn to ECU. Warm up on base map ticking over, check coolant level etc. Then check ignition timing and adjust on megatune if incorrect. Then take out on the road. Big question: Am I better using megatune auto tune or megatune data log and then using analyser in megalogviewer? Or do they do the same job? I think I will start to get my head round this bit by bit. Any other pointers please?? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 One pointer- check the readings you get direct from the lc 1 match what you see in megatune or tuner studio before you do any tuning. Lc1 should be earthed back to the squirt to minimise voltage offsets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Basics 1st Sir Check ALL 8 Guages on Megasquirt are working and reading Ensure TPS is calibrated - also right click on any guage on megatune and select TPS, ignition on press Aceel pedal, 0-100% sweep ? BLOCK off PWM and set Tickover srew on plenum Reconnect PWM Autotune is very very good, but a Log shows everything for double checking Carry base map and a way to upload it if the new MSQ makes it runs like **** Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Thankyou gents! Yep the lc1 is grounded at the relay board which is cool, I think it will need a separate supply Sony can calibrate it before the igntion is on but can pinch that from a nearby battery! Thanks for those tips Nige, will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Old heater, new heater, lol Hope it works!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Wow! That will certainly have freed up some space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Is the one on the left saying "Take me to your Leader" ? Medication ? ....is that the time already .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 With mine, all i do is switch off _ (she keeps running) i touch the brake peddle and she stops :S LOL not attached in the resister on the alternator wire yet as i'm clearly being a slack B~$TWARD...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Wow! That will certainly have freed up some space Yeah! I'm thinking the ARB compressor and maybe ECU will fit behind there now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Does the relay board make for a much simpler and error free installation? I'm considering getting one from Nige. By the way Nige if I order from your website it's £100 inc P&P, but only £94 with free P&P off ebay? I think I'll order off ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Speak to Nige anyway and I'm sure he can confirm/sort out the prices! Relay board is definitely "nice" I am a person that can justify £98 for something which is nice. It also means the wiring is screwed in not soldered to an impossible ECU plug so much easier for any future repairs, but if you're on a budget or simply not bothered about having the "nice" solution then you don't really need it. Not trying to influence you either way because its personal choice really, to the sum of around £98! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Hmmm problems. Can't get throttle to 0%. Calibrate many times but always rests around 5-8%. Get a full sweep to 100% and nice and smooth but won't calibrate to 0%. So could this be why it will not idle below 1400rpm? PWM disconnected, both ports blocked, and idle screw full in I get 1300/1400rpm. Reconnect PWM and get 1700rpm approx. It just won't slow down! Don't think I had this problem until I filled the coolant up, now I have coolant temp 177F and its running fast. Have sprayed carb cleaner around and makes no difference Idle is a bit up and down and air/fuel ratio fluctuates (NB) when the pwm is plugged in. Any ideas??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 To calibrate TPS Megatune on ignition on Tools Calibrate TPS Get current Top box should be 20-30 Press pedal to floor get current should be day 250- 300 Then save and exit Set tickover by blocking note blocking pipe disconnecting pwm doesn't work it's a powered "off" when blocked check cable and throttle stop and then use screw on top of plenum to get steady Check in settings what us set as tickover target when warm (+73 degrees ) Then reconnect pwm Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Ok thanks, TPS now calibrated, didn't save and exit before. Now I have idle speed 2000rpm after revving up, and base idle screw fully adjusted closed. Will try again to remove pwm and see what idle is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Slow idle target is 820rpm above 72F! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Fidle/Spark off flashes even when CTS registers 180F ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 You must remove and block off pwm otherwise as you fiddle with air screw for butterfly on plenum the pwm el compensate ?!!! B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Pwm is removed and has been removed every time and both ports are fully blocked! Seems I might have an air leak because I put my hand over intake pipe on tickover and it carries on running quite happily with nearly no vacuum on my hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 The breather doesn't make much difference to rpms, drops to around 1200... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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