CwazyWabbit Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I'm another one enjoying this thread lots Your idea of copying the thread as a how to is a good one, however I do like to see people make mistakes/have problems as they go along so that I don't feel so bad when I make mistakes copying them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Hi Nige Yeah I was already planning that when done I will have a read back through the thread and take notes/write down/remember stuff and then have a chat with you about how I can help. But yes using that list you just gave as a guide I will basically work out how long individual modules take to do/figure out. Obviously there is a lot already and will be a lot more to come in this thread that isn't specifically MS but is all part of my build, thus: I wholeheartedly agree that a new thread once this one is finished is a great idea. Edit out all the carp and it will make a superb "this is how to fit a kit and this is how long it will take thread" Key turn might happen tonight or next couple days depending on what arrives in the post, tbh I really need a night off too!! Will probably get itchy fingers later though, just got to cut ECU loom back a bit (gonna leave it nice and long anyway and just coil up extra behind dash) and wire into relay board, and wire in NB sensor! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Sometimes you learn more from people's mistakes than from what they do right, so I don't think it's necessary to take all of that out. What could be an option is to add a link to a post describing the solution if something wrong is done early in the thread. I too am really enjoying this thread, very well-written. Now do one for MSv3! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Yep. Thumbs up from me regarding editing it when finished into 100% tech thread. Ive a feeling this thread may get as big as the original ms thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Yep. Thumbs up from me regarding editing it when finished into 100% tech thread. Ive a feeling this thread may get as big as the original ms thread! Muhahahahahaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Would love to have a go at MS3, sucker for a challenge and all that. Just can't afford it anytime soon! Nige, why don't you send me a kit for testing purposes? We have just got a TVR Griffith 400 in at work which would be the ideal test vehicle. Pwease? xxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Nige asked the ECU builder to pinout a CTO on the ECU plug and the ECU says this: But apart from the fact that it might mean CTO is on Spare 1, we can't figure what JS0 means! Anyone any idea?? JS0 is the name of the pin on the CPU, so it's what you'll see in Megatune when you setup tacho out: SPR1 is the name of the SPaRe pin on the 37-pin connector that the tach output circuit is wired to. So you connect the tacho wire to SPR1 and tell the MS to make pulses on SPR0 and hopefully your rev-counter should spring into life. Since this thread seems destined for the tech archive I'll point out that, due to the organic way MS grew in the early years, there are lots of overlapping names & functions for various pins in the MS firmware so you need to be VERY CAREFUL when configuring outputs/inputs, extra features, etc. and think carefully about what might clash with what. If you're only using ONE "extra" function it's not so bad, but (for example) my ECU has dual fan control & tach out and that took some head scratching to make sure it worked right. There are pin names (JS0-JS9), Output names (Output1..4), X names (X1..X5), LED names (ACCEL, WARMUP, SQUIRT) and component names (D14, D18, etc.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thankyou for the explanation fridge ok so i'll have a look see when i get it plugged in, hopefully later tonight. Nige did say he had loaded the software but he didnt know what JS0 was either so i expect he didnt setup the tacho output! Thanks again for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I'd expect it would already be set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 So, Connected the lambda and slung it in the exhaust: Fitted my new battery connector, which now includes earths for the relay board and the EDIS Then wired up the ecu box, best part of 2 1/2 hours from start to finish!! but that involved getting the looms right, etc etc. Nifty stuff includes taking the power cable for the EDIS (2mm) then stripping it about 1/2", splitting the cores down into 2x 1mm twists and using 2 of the injector ports, then using the other two ports to take 2x injector supply cables each. Also see the big brown wire that is fed from the FP port which feeds the land rover fuel pump relay (mounted in vehicle loom), the two injector supplies, the lambda sensor heater and the pwm valve supply. Also notice there is a cut off serial cable in there, waiting for the solder D9 fitting a few posts above so that I can have the ECU connected whilst still waterproofed. The lambda sensor is earthed from the ground pin on the redundant idle valve relay socket. Was the neatest way I could find to earth this low current item. Better than earthing it away from the board, so that readings are as accurate as possible. And then: Awesome :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Good work! Diode is easy to sort, mine was the same. The hesitation on throttle blip is probably a lean dip which can be tuned out- all that stuff will be in the sequel thread though eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Diode fitted and it now turns off! Yep it will need a substantial portion of tuning, just a flat spot but shouldn't be too much trouble to sort that out. Gonna keep it all in this thread but yeah lol, there will be MOAR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Excellent work there fella.Great attention to the detail Those headers give such a wonderful noise too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Congrats nice to see 1st starts without fuss, shows it can be a simple install Make sure you have decent NGK BP6RES Plugs fitted And then go read tuning ! Bet your still grinning when your hits the pillow at whatever time tonight Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Congrats on bringing it to life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thanks rob!! hey don't forget the 2.5" open system either!! And thankyou Nige, big time. Tbh daunting at first but for someone who has the basic understanding and the time (!!) it is a very simple install really. I'm well chuffed it started without issue. Yep, new BPR6ES when I rebuilt the motor 2 months ago, always use NGK! Now gapped to 1.0mm instead of 0.8mm on dizzy! Yes, big tuning read up required now, going to get the loom out and taped up once I've checked the readings look ok on megatune, then need to get a heater sorted and the dash back together before it gets out on the open road! But yes, very very happy it's a runner and thanks again for putting such a nice kit together, have really enjoyed installing it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 More pics! Here's the alternator warning light wire, usually brown/yellow: Choose a nice straight section to fit the diode, with the grey band TOWARDS THE ALTERNATOR: Add some heatshrink: Then heatshrink over the whole thing and pop back in the loom. Job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thanks wabbit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Fantastic stuff Sam. Sounds the business as well. Im continuing to watch this thread with great interest though. Bet it was a huuuuge relief when it fired up first time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Fantastic stuff Sam. Sounds the business as well. Im continuing to watch this thread with great interest though. Bet it was a huuuuge relief when it fired up first time! Yep!! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Reyt, so some stuff arrived today D9 plug, got to solder this on to the cut end of the serial cable that is inside my ECU box. Going to test it by plugging into the laptop tonight!! And received a few superseal bits from VWP for the lambda connection. Got one female for the loom side, then a male for NB, a male for WB and a male with blanks for, well, blanking off. Could call if blankband Updates later then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Going to remove the pwm bracket also! Plus, ordered my heater box + accessories today for delivery tomorrow so generally that will be tomorrows job. Would really like to remove the loom tonight and tape it but im flying solo and i think it's a 2 man job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 i think it's a 2 man job! Isn't that Neils line from the Inbetweeners movie..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Congrats and glad that it started first time, just like mine did (so the guide on the VR sensor has worked 2 out of 2) Mine also had a flat spot on hard acceleration with Nige's initial map, the first tuning run sorted that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Isn't that Neils line from the Inbetweeners movie..... Was a long time since I saw it but ill agree with you for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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