Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Hi All. With the first frosts of the year knipping at the extremeties and the 90 heater down to one speed again I have been pondering if the resistors (I think) in the heater blower can be replaced and if so how easy is it. I have a bilge blower lying about in the shed from an older non LR vehcle project and saw the post on supercharging your heater and toyed with using that. If I used that and didnt want to or couldnt use the native speed controler what would I need controler wise to regulate the speed of the fan? On a seperate note does anyone know if a straight through mid section exhaust is available for a 2.5 petrol 90 and who sells them if they exsist ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Hi All. With the first frosts of the year knipping at the extremeties and the 90 heater down to one speed again I have been pondering if the resistors (I think) in the heater blower can be replaced and if so how easy is it. I have a bilge blower lying about in the shed from an older non LR vehcle project and saw the post on supercharging your heater and toyed with using that. If I used that and didnt want to or couldnt use the native speed controler what would I need controler wise to regulate the speed of the fan? On a seperate note does anyone know if a straight through mid section exhaust is available for a 2.5 petrol 90 and who sells them if they exsist ? Petrol exhausts are a different ball game to diesel and turbo diesel exhaust remove a silencer and you'll probably end up melting valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I think his petrol engine has been replaced with a 200tdi if I remember correctly VB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Petrol exhausts are a different ball game to diesel and turbo diesel exhaust remove a silencer and you'll probably end up melting valves. Sorry Vulcan I should have elaborated on the question. My 90 was a 2.5 petrol and then it was fitted with a 200tdi I think by Land Rover. Anyway I recently ordered a 200tdi straight through section to remove the central box thinking a 200tdi exhaust was fitted to the engine at the time of conversion (foolish I know) but it didn’t fit as the people who replaced the engine had used the 2.5 petrol exhaust from the original engine. So I tried to coble something together and ended up with a mess. So thought If I got a straight through for the petrol system I could just bolt it on instead of bending and cutting and welding pipe. Cheers J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 iirc the petrol exhaust pipe is smaller than tdi echaust, you could fit a td exhaust with an appropriate down pipe and make up/have made a straight through center pipe. Or get a nice bespoke exhaust made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 If it was a genuine LandRover retrofit kit it would have been fitted with a TD exhaust. Or at least should have been as one would have come with the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 On the heater front, running on 24v makes it go too fast and make too much noise! I've bought one of these: http://www.4qd.co.uk/prod/1qd.html in 24v (they do 12v as well) to give me variable 0 to 24v. I plan to convert the original heater slider to a 10k linear potentiometer which will control the 4QD speed controller. The speed controllers from 4QD are first class (though the one linked to is not the best of them, it is cheap though). I've used lots and of them in the past. With this one, you need to careful not to reverse the power connections or it will let the Smoke out! I think this should give me the best of all worlds! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Wow that truly is website design from the NCSA Mosaic days! Wonder if he has a Compuserve email address? The only thing that worries me about over-volting the fan is long-term reliability. Have you managed to find a suitable linear pot to retro-fit in the Dash Si? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 If it was a genuine LandRover retrofit kit it would have been fitted with a TD exhaust. Or at least should have been as one would have come with the kit. I think it is having just looked a td exhaust system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 On the heater front, running on 24v makes it go too fast and make too much noise! I've bought one of these: http://www.4qd.co.uk/prod/1qd.html in 24v (they do 12v as well) to give me variable 0 to 24v. I plan to convert the original heater slider to a 10k linear potentiometer which will control the 4QD speed controller. The speed controllers from 4QD are first class (though the one linked to is not the best of them, it is cheap though). I've used lots and of them in the past. With this one, you need to careful not to reverse the power connections or it will let the Smoke out! I think this should give me the best of all worlds! Si OK bear in mind I know nothing of electrical stuff but is this the sort of thing you meant when you said a linear potetiometer? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Slide-Potentiometer-10K-Linear-/290774508867?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43b382e543 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 That's exactly the kind of thing! I'd figured on getting a good quality one from RS where I can buy a specific length as well as a value. I'd also worried about the longevity of the heater motor at 24v - and that's the reason for adding the speed control. I found that between 18 and 24v you don't get much more air out - I presume the inlet and outlet are too restricted - it just makes more noise! I figure on limiting the speed control to give me 0 to 18v. At 18v the motor doesn't sound unhappy. Even using it to vary between 0 & 12v I think would improve things massively. It really needs a speed between low & high on the current defender where there is enough pressure to cover the whole screen but low enough that the air is hot even when the engine is not up to full temp. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I think it is having just looked a td exhaust system Ah, i thought you'd have a disco conversion. Ralph has on his 110 a straight through centre from a V8 iirc, hopefully he'll be along to help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Simon, Were you thinking of something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300633066479?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 to drive the speed controller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I've often thought about replacing the Defender heater unit itself. I'm sure that the engines get hot enough, after all the 200Tdi in a Discovery runs at the same temperature as that in a Defender thereabouts so the issue must lie with the efficiency (or lack thereof) of the heater unit itself. Something like this: http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/5.2Kw_Car_Heater_Kit_HEAT3 Could be mounted easily enough in the stock location I am sure with a bit of creative thinking. And you could also take the opportunity to actually duct the air within the dash lower chamber itself. This would surely improve efficiency as well, though it would require some directional control valves to enable you to direct the air up to the screen or down to the footwells. Yes the Defender heater is adequate (in a 90 at least) when set up properly, but that doesn't mean we can't improve it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Cackshifter, very similar to that one, except I think the one I bought was 20A. Bear in mind the heater will draw twice as much current at 24v, so the 12v input to the converter will sink 4x the current. The current output of the converter is self limiting - which is probably a good thing as I think it would sink a lot more current than it's getting! James, I've heard of people simply putting a bigger matrix in the original heater box. There was a thread on here where someone put a 12v PTC heater in the box in addition to the original. This has a big advantage in that you will get hot air immediately, augmented by the engine when it heats up! I like this as a solution! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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