SteveG Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 450 each side. I know they are expensive but its a realitvly new thing and no doubt the prices will come down at somepoint as more are produced and the demand for them becomes more. In the US, where they are manufactured, they retail for about £530 a pair. (Even for easily sourced RHD ECE approved versions) Somehow, after taking off US retail margin they double in price when traversing the Atlantic. A stiff uplift even taking into account VAT and import. According to one supplier, as they are ECE approved you can fit them without self levelling and washers. Yet if you wanted to fit them to a new vehicle to get them through EC WVTA (European new vehicle type approval) you'd have to fit them with self levelling and washers. Hence why you don't see them or HID on new Defenders from LR. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Worth fitting relays ?? though I would look up the Voltage effect on lamp output........... 10.5V : 510 lumens 11.0V : 597 lumens 11.5V : 695 lumens 12.0V : 803 lumens 12.5V : 923 lumens 12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage 13.0V : 1054 lumens 13.5V : 1198 lumens 14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage 14.5V : 1528 lumens Full article here http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html as well as drawing for the non "leccy's" So definitely the starting point for improved lighting since most standard wired defenders will have no more than 10V at the bulb. It's a no brainer really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclemicky Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 To be honest, all i did was plug in the new lamps.I did not even put in expensive bulbs!! If the light was bad,next thing good bulbs. But the lights are pretty good.I suppose in the intrests ot science i should pull the socket off one of the bulbs and put a meter on it.My 90 is a 1993. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutz Posted November 30, 2012 Author Share Posted November 30, 2012 My 90 is a 95, but still has the sealed beam units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Just been out for the first time since swapping my sealed beams for the wipacs and the halford 'ultimate' bulbs lamps 'fings wot give off light' and the difference is incredible It's way better now, I can see where I'm going It's the same as I use, assuming you mean the super-white bulbs that claim something like 230% brightness and give a tinge of blueness to the light. Even with the slatted bull bar in their way, they illuminate the road as well as my RRC does with its Wipac and standard H4 lamps. If I took the bar off, they'd be amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 [/color]bulbs lamps 'fings wot give off light'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm52 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 strange these debates, everyone has a valid opinion for their own circumstance. i would have thought any halogen over a sealed unit would be better as would something like Phillips Extreme +90 over standard. Whether Crystal are that much better than standard on a Puma I am not sure. They were certainly much better than the original lights on my 300tdi. LED headlamps...............no comment. Please feel free to correct any errors above, just my view. regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Got excellent lights on my 110, just have to remember to feed the glow worms on a regular basis.... Got me coat and exiting stage left....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 It sounds like using a voltage regulator might also be a good idea that can keep the output at 14.5V for the headlamps regardless of the main harness voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Hi, Unclemicky suggests that he "should pull the socket off one of the bulbs and put a meter on it." Don't forget that voltage drop increases with load, so to get a true working voltage at the bulb you need to have the bulb in the circuit when you test it. You may need to make up a pair of special flying leads to connect to the meter. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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