Nigelw Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I am having issues with thoughts that the trailing arms of a D1 are just not strong enough to cope with extra strain on them in terms of already being under tension in the chassis mounted bushings and then further tension from a suspension lift, so what is the answer?What have other people done to strengthen the arms? And what about correcting the arm a little to relieve the extra tension in them from fitting the lift?I have seen the X-joint http://www.british4x4outfitters.com/X-J ... 22679.aspx where there is little or no resistance to the trailing arm but again would be difficult to get it through the MOT here with that fitted!!So if you have modded your trailing arms or have a good idea post up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 unless you are going over a 2" suspension lift, then you don't really need to worry too much - the bushes take up the slight increase in angle. Mine is on Bearmach HD springs all round, which give about a 2" lift, plus the 85 series tyres which add a bit more, no major issues (so far) and no comment from mr mot man either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Get some cranked arms so the chassis bush isn't under load when on the flat. should help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Didn't someone make a bush with an angled centre? I liked that idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Cranked arms are often longer to take account of the suspension lift altering the diff angle at flex, so it's a two-fold fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 As above, cranked arms would be the best option. If you go for cranked arms, look for some with that have the axle bush offset in relation to the main tube, this stops the arm hitting the top of the axle bracket under droop travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco1tdi Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Gwyn Lewis' heavy duty trailing arms are worth a look... http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page17.html Reassuringly chunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Gwyn Lewis' heavy duty trailing arms are worth a look...http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page17.html Reassuringly chunky. Ooooh!!! Gotta get me some of them!!! Very worth the price for piece of mind having seen what can happen, I did consider getting some 3mm close fitting pipe and putting a sleeve on the originals, would only be a case of finding a close fit and a few euro for a couple of meters of pipe but think these are much better! But I did happen upon an idea to use D2 front radius arms and weld the brackets on to the axle tube, meaning no matter what the suspension height is once the bolt is tightened up it is set, trouble is wouldn't get that mod through the MOT here I don't think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 You MAY get lucky with getting cranked arms through if you paint them black. Maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 You MAY get lucky with getting cranked arms through if you paint them black. Maybe. I am gonna buy me some shares in Akzonobel soon for the amount of black paint that is having to be applied to my shiny new parts!!! I have got to paint the springs black, the axles will have to be painted black too once the ARB brackets are cut and ground off, the trailing arms and I am hopefull they wont notice the two new black air tanks under the body now? I am ordering 20 liters of waxoyl black to do the underside and all the cavities so everything will look almost new under there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I wouldn't worry about the strength of the trailing arms, even with a lift. If you use the standard chassis bushes, those will wear faster because of the increased angle. Easiest and cheapest fix is to put some washers on the between the top bolt fo the mounting plate and the chassisbracket, so the bush is angled more towards the axle after the lift. That's how we did it on the Classic we took to Ladoga 3 times, and it works fine. Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I friend of mine did the same as Filip suggests... if I recall the angle adjustment needed is only 2-3 degrees, so packing out the top of the chassis bush with a washer or two lasted for years on his RRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Deleted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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