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Door card off, remove the spring clips on the operating rods and disconnect the two rods from back of door handle, remove two screws on each side of the back of the door handle and pull handle out.

Remove cross head screw and small lever from end of lock barrel, put key in lock barrel, push a pin in the small detent spring on side of lock barrel and wiggle barrel out with the key. Sometimes need a bit of plusgas in the barrel if its sticking.

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Don't get too ahead of yourself ; )

The spring clips will shoot into another dimension as soon as you touch them with a screwdriver, the screws holding the door handle on will sieze in the brass bushes which will just rotate in the plastic, the barrel will probably be siezed all the plastic clips on the door card will snap, and refitting will not be as easy as removal!

Gotta love em!

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The way I did it was to remove the door car, and then drill a small hole in the inner door panel in line with the Phillips screw head in the end of the barrel. This enabled me to stick a screwdriver through and release the barrel, which I then pulled out with the key from the outside. Saves faffing with taking the handle and rods etc. off. You can see the hole in this photograph, on the left side of the inner panel.

I threw my lock barrels away and fitted central locking instead.

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The way I did it was to remove the door car, and then drill a small hole in the inner door panel in line with the Phillips screw head in the end of the barrel. This enabled me to stick a screwdriver through and release the barrel, which I then pulled out with the key from the outside. Saves faffing with taking the handle and rods etc. off. You can see the hole in this photograph, on the left side of the inner panel.

I threw my lock barrels away and fitted central locking instead.

Exactly the way I did mine, quick and easy without having to disconnect any rods.

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  • 1 year later...

I have also drilled a hole and was a simple operation to replace the barrel. I have always had issues with my 1988 90 not opening with the key on the passenger side and despite lots of wd40 and a new lock barrel this is still an issue. It appears the rod that connects to the interior door lifter button is too slack as if I hold the rod towards the lock everything works as it should but with the door panel back on and all trim panels in correct position the key can not turn move the rod at all. I have looked at the button itself and it doesn't have any greater slack than the drivers side in the hole the rod passes through. Any suggestions to resolve the problem before I attempt to bend the rod a bit? Cheers

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On doing the drivers side that was supposed to be straightforward I had an issue as the piece the barrel locates into was plastic unlike the passenger side which was metal and as I went to undo the screw it fell apart. Has anyone an idea whee to get the piece the barrel locates and locks into. As always with my 90 the simplest of jobs becomes a mission.

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  • 11 months later...

Well it's been on there eight years without any major issues so I'd say yes. Was only a cheap kit from eBay too so I'm quite impressed with it. A few adjustment issues now and then with the lock actuator when I've removed/refitted for work on the doors but nothing insurmountable.

It's the 90 the kit is fitted to, I just did the front two doors. Rear door is still capable of being manually actuated with the key barrel in place in case of battery or central locking failure.

When the 110 goes back together I will fit central locking all round but again throw away the barrels on the front doors and just leave one in the back door.

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