DC_ Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Before resorting to my local grease monkey, and after checking bearings, I thought I would post here to see what your thoughts are. RRC 1992 Auto V8. Has just, in the last few weeks started clicking clunking from the front wheels when I emerge from the drive or anywhere else when i turn left or right. It doesn't seem to do it when straight. Wheel bearings ok..... Loose brake pad on drivers side sorted after discovering a sticky piston (well hopefully sorted) so now after two and a half years of not being allowed in our forests, we are allowed with supervision, back in..... I have 12 days to sort this. :-( Rang my good grease monkey and he reckons it could be wear in the swivel? I have noticed a very small leak of EP90 from the seal at the swivel and was thinking to replace with one shot.... Don't think we've ever had 2 weeks of 30 degree heat in Scotland so was thinking this may thin everything down and leaked more than norm? Help is appreciated guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 CV joint(s), classic symptoms IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Yup. CVs. Typically a pretty solid repeated 'clack', when there's some lock on, often worse in reverse. Swivels don't normally make a repeating noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 sorry to say , but have to agree with the two gentlemen above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Nuts !! (For want of a better word) CV's easily enough to replace? I've had a look through the manuals, "Les" does a write up for replacing the full swivel (challis), but I can't remember seeing CV's being referred to. Not got time just now to search the tinternet, I seen CV's on JGS4x4 at £27 each. Do I need any seals/gaskets? Sorry never done CV's before Thanks for the comments so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincsoldbird Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Check your centre diff is ok, if not the new ones will be as bad in a couple of months.I got though two sets before finding the cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Caliper off, drive member off, wheel bearing out, hub off, stub axle off (catch all the one-shot in a bucket), pull out shaft, whack CV with a mallet to get it off the shaft, whack new CV into place, refitting is opposite... etc Checking the old CV is easy, there shouldn't be any rotational play in it, check with it at an angle as well. You can disassemble them and wiping them out you will most likely see pitting on the balls and inside the cup, and the 6-legged spider thingy in the middle (forget the real name!) You'll need at a minimum stub axle gasket, one-shot, wheel bearing grease, ideally a hub seal in case you nick it, and wheel bearing lock washers if they are junk. Drive member on the RRC seem to always be stuck on with RTV (silicone). Re-seat the ABS sensor after, as when removing the CV it can knock it up quite easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Lunch break and time to reply, Thanks for the info guys, will try source where to get the CV's and gaskets and shipped pronto sharp!! 12 days to get this done..... I've got bearing grease, one shot, locking washers and I'm sure a hub seal too in my spares. Do I need RTV? (just order it with CV's?) ABS sensors scare me so I'll be very carefull round about that. As this is the first drive and I REALLY don't want to miss it, I'm worried that due to time I might struggle. If I were to make sure it's got plenty of one shot, would I be able to get through the drive (two days) or would this cause even more damage? Thanks again, need to run as my Learners are wanting their driving lessons ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Just one other thought, it would be worth checking your viscous coupling, as I have had that produce some clicking sounds before. Jack up one front wheel, handbrake on, transfer box in neutral, put a breaker bar on one of the front wheel nuts and stand on it, it should move, very slowly. If it doesn't, it's lunched.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Viscous good thanks for tip Grease monkey says "sounds very dry" Took some pics and the one that's clicking was almost bone dry. In one of the pics you can see condensation on the swivel housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Oh dear.... looks like you are stripping it then I guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Ideally if I had more time and feeling a bit more confident I would. As my good mechanic can't squeeze me in before the drive, he told me to load it with one shot and do it as soon as you get back before heading out again. I am praying this will be ok? Took it out after loading it up with one shot and it is quieter. I am very tempted to order the CV and gaskets needed and do this one side before I go. I've got this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 fill with grease and in use don't put the power on when on lock , it'll be fine I'd say . And do check that VC if they lock up the cv's or axle diff are usually the first sign have a good drive and post up pics then get it checked out properly if you are not confident , but with good basic tools and axle stand(s) you can do it in a day cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 VC checked out doing the simple test. Now filled with fresh one shot grease on both sides. Will not apply power (much) on full turn. Good amount of tools and axle stands I have (if not it'll give an excuse to put in my Xmas order) So I have the camera at the ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Well all went well and the "clicking" has gone. Not sure if it was due to having barely no EP90 in it or grease, but its done the trick. Will still order the parts and get the CV's done ASAP. Here's a few sample pics of the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Looks like you had a good weekend , got any more pics ? good to hear its all gone quiet cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 And one of thee most stunning views I know of Homeward bound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I had worn CVs that clicked years ago. I replaced them with Britpart ones and was surprised that the did 90,000 miles bfore one of them let go and clicked badly. The bell cracked through in two places all the way through - you could see daylight through the cracks. The cause remains unknown, but the other side was perfect with no apparent wear. CVs are one component that Britpart do well, and at just over £30, at a very good price. Even shcroft Transmissions rate them highly, with BP CVs coming second best in destructive testing, outperformed only by a Gucci aftermarket, very expensive uprated alternative. While avoiding high throttle positions may nurse the CVs a little, it's tight cornering and off roading that will kill them - cornering will reuire the viscous coupling to slip, and you've seen how much torque needs to be applied to it through the diffs and cv joints for that to happen, and off roading will shock load them as the wheels slip or spin and then find grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thanks for the info snagger :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 What size tyres have you got on your RR? Look like Insa Turbo Special Tracks. My Colway Mud Terrain remoulds have done 6 years and getting "tired".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 265/75/16 DrRob....... They are phenomenal ...... Doot doo do doo do......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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