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Been fiddlin'


Paul Wightman

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If, as Will says, they can get hot enough uncooled to melt solder then they should be OK? I'm guessing stripping them down and just working on the housing would be a good precaution.

BTW any idea how much current the setup draws on an average pull?

I think the point where solder might melt is a bad point to reach. footinmouth.gif

I reckon a fair pull will draw about 800 amps but hopefully not for long! Wackelarsch.gif

Roger, Leslie Cube, very interesting. So should bald people paint their heads matt black? 40[1].gif

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I think the best bit about this thread is the innovation and creativity in the winding of the cooling coils through the rollers and the construction of the SS straps………. excellent Paul …………… hope to see you next Sat. ;)

As for all the other comments on melting motors and current draw (place yawning smillie here)………. There is those that understand electrons and those that don’t………..... and those that dont, should'nt ........... oh, never mind.

:D

Ian

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I might be thick, but how does this work?????

as folks said below, leslie's cube is a good example.

I seem to recall that it is the surface finish that is more significant than the colour as far as radiating heat goes, hence the matt part.

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as folks said below, leslie's cube is a good example.

I seem to recall that it is the surface finish that is more significant than the colour as far as radiating heat goes, hence the matt part.

A matt black surface is the best radiator/absorber and shiny polished surface is the best reflector, worst radiator.

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A matt black surface is the best radiator/absorber and shiny polished surface is the best reflector, worst radiator.

Ok I understand, because of the infra red radiation emmitted it's better, but how much of the heat is IR? Surely in this case the heat absorption of the materials would have a greater play and I suspect that using the heat sink compound would have more benefit than the IR absorption properties of the copper tubes.

Cheers

Steve

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Ok I understand, because of the infra red radiation emmitted it's better, but how much of the heat is IR? Surely in this case the heat absorption of the materials would have a greater play and I suspect that using the heat sink compound would have more benefit than the IR absorption properties of the copper tubes.

Cheers

Steve

I don't have any data about volour nor wish to spend time looking it up but in the PW © design, the bulk of heat is transfered by conduction/convection from motor via the pipe to the water. There will be a small amount of heat dissipation via radiation but I doubt the colour of the tubing is something to be concerned about.

Now if one want to go the whole hog and squeeze every bit of performance out, then the extra step of painting them matt back is what one would do.

(in the olden days, radiators were copper cored with copper fins and brass header tanks, all of them painted black so I guess there is benefit)

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Ok I understand, because of the infra red radiation emmitted it's better, but how much of the heat is IR? Surely in this case the heat absorption of the materials would have a greater play and I suspect that using the heat sink compound would have more benefit than the IR absorption properties of the copper tubes.

Cheers

Steve

Yes. We've got two different situations here.

1) Conduction of the heat from the motor to the coils: finish doesn't matter, you don't want any paint here but you do want as much surface contact as possible, hence the square section and oodles of heat conducting grease. There is no radiated heat here so none of the heat will be IR

2) Radiation of heat from the outside of the coils to atmosphere: here you want a matt black surface so the heat is radiated away as infra-red, but I would keep the polished copper because it looks great (pity it's a Pikey magnet though)

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Looks interesting - few questions from someone who doesn't know anything about it if you don't mind? -

1. Do you know how much the whole system weighs including the cooling/fluids/batteries/cables... etc? (probably not I guess, but worth a shot).

2. Did you put any kind of radiators in the water flow back to the tank (I guess so, maybe I missed it)? Did you increase the size of the tank at all?

It might sound kinda stupid, but I'm just looking at it wondering whether all that copper and pre-heated water around the motors isn't going to hinder cooling rather than aid it? :unsure:

Cheers, Al.

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Was trying to avoid this thread, But have been drawn towards it like a fly is to...........Sh*T :D

Paul have you thought about perhaps inlaying the outer casing with perhaps some gem stones..?

Using the reflective prisims you could perhaps heat water for your Latte..???

Or perhaps blind other competitors as they pass you by.... :rolleyes:

Perhap instead of gem stones or copper you could have a small child bathing the motors with one hand whilist retaining themselves to the front of your car with the other...? B)

Perhaps you could have some kind of air conditioning unit to pump cold air through the pipes thus saving water and of course still allowing the use of copper (Bling or black your choice?)

Of course you could just leave it, as it is as it seems to work beautifully... :lol:

Although not as good as having a hairdryer bolted to front of your car.... :lol:;)

:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Nine horse motor just arrived...... :ph34r: Nuff said B)

Jim :)

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Jim,

You missed !

F**K it they dont get hot anyway well not on mine P.s why does 1 get warmer than the other & when are you getting the new bits & my straight DRUM !!!!!

OR fit decent axles & tyres & try driving the 4 wheel drive vehicle thats whats its for !! I know that TDIs are only good for charging batterys but that does take the tiddle if you dont even use the gearbox !!!!!

Great clip on your web site i remember driving that section was a bit deep :blink: though thought at 1 stage i would have to drop into low box or even get out :P

I think your air cooled is a better idea especially as any liquid in my truck soon raised to around 90 degrees within about 30 mins unless its in the fridge :angry: & of course weighs a lots less !!!

Cant understand the need for a RAM with pram wheels <_< is it instead of power steering on Pauls truck as its so old that it never had it as standard :ph34r:

Maybe thats what put the strain on his heart after all fair play no PAS in Argyll Paul ;)

You 2 coming next year or sticking to Club Offroad events :P

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I looked up in the construction & use regs about full hydro steer. I had seen a truck at a breakers yard with it fitted and since it had plates, figured it must be road legal.

The answer was that - YES it is legal, BUT only on 'agricultural' vehicles limited to no more than 27mph.

The truck I saw was used for baggage handling at the airport.

Still, I guess your average e-Truck rarely even goes that fast, so it's probably OK. ;)

Si

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Very nice, Paul although I did prefer the water cooled fairlead :)

Let me know when you are feeling well enough to do my rear winch mount so I can complete my matching pair of Wightman Winch Mounts :)

Cheers

Mo

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