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disco 2 summery


cluffy

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Afternoon all.

first time on disco page, usually on defender. Im selling and was going to swap to a P38 but I have been offered a disco 2.

I just want a quick summery of what I need to look for? I believe its a td5?

Whats the common faluts?

what sort of mpg would I be expecting?

whats your opinion on a reasonable price? I appreciate some of these questions are hard to answer but any pointers would be appreciated as ive never touched a disco before?

many thanks

Ben

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Having looked at a few, compared to a Defender, purely based on chassis corrosion I wouldn't touch a D2 with somebody elses bargepole. Just my opinion, but I would rather have a D1.

Actually I lie, I would rather have a Defender, but that's a personal thing.

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I can only echo the above, having owned and looked after 15+ defenders 4 disco 1s and a hybrid and RRC throw in for good measure I've just bought a D2 last week, gave it a quick check for rot found a bit and was happy, once I got it on the ramp and swapped the bar for a hammer HOLY carp can these things rot!

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Having said all that, you know what? I wouldn't swap my D2 for anything. It is incredibly comfortable, excellent for towing, fits everything in for family duties and still has room left over. Find a nice one - they are out there! I wouldn't have a p38 if you held me at gun point, I literally would rather die. Just MHO :-)

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I just feel I should stand up a bit for the D2! I've had mine for 10+ years now, (2000 basic Td5, no air susp. no ACE, no sunrooves ), mines a LHD French car and has no chassis rot at all, so its not obligatory, it just depends where you keep it and drive it. Also I get 25mpg but 30 on the motorway. I should be much more nervous of P38 electrical gremlins. I also have a Defender 110 as well but to do the high miles I choose the D2 every time, 225000 km and counting.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Nice spec

Some chassis aren't as bag as others, those who've respectfully protected them are often better, preparing and painting rather than spraying wax oil on the outside?? Then injecting wax oil properly as it should be used. For those with chassis rot there are repair sections being made by companies to help, rails by some but they're more a patch than a proper repair.

D2s as mentioned have their issues, electrical faults is one, dodgy door locks that fail at around 10 years old, air bags serviceable at 10 years old, questionable if ACE was supposed to last much longer than that as we see a lot failing

Clutches starting to go now, with a flywheel you're looking about £650-700 fitted. Servicing is important

In their defence I have had my TD5 D2 for nearly 6 years and spent under £200 on repair parts. She's had a set of discs and pads, serviced every 6k, new tyres

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I just feel I should stand up a bit for the D2! I've had mine for 10+ years now, (2000 basic Td5, no air susp. no ACE, no sunrooves ), mines a LHD French car and has no chassis rot at all, so its not obligatory, it just depends where you keep it and drive it. Also I get 25mpg but 30 on the motorway. I should be much more nervous of P38 electrical gremlins. I also have a Defender 110 as well but to do the high miles I choose the D2 every time, 225000 km and counting.

+1^^^^

Had mine 10+ years, done 130,000 miles in it. Never heard that D2's had major chassis worries, thought that was all D1's!!

Air suspension isn't "wallowy" it's brilliant for comfort and perfect for towing. Plus you can manually raise the rear slightly for off road. That's if it's working of course!!

All 7 seaters came with air, option on the 5 seaters I believe.

Avoid sun roof, look for air con (works well as long as used constantly).

30mpg or just under has been the constant over 10 years with mix of country lanes/motorway/town etc.

You should get a good one (facelift model) for less than £5k

Dave

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Chassis chassis and chassis. Just done a Chassis swap on mine after owning it for less than a year. Completely shot and the worst the garage had seen. Air suspension is great although I did ditch the ACE on the rebuild because it would have been a nightmare to sort properly and that comes from Land Rover technicians.

Replaced the shocks with Terrafirma and the wallowing does not exist. I have a P38 as well and both are great vehicles the only issue I have with the RR is all the electronics and from that view buy a pre 1999 and they are, very slightly, less complicated.Would agree 4.6 on LPG.

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I have recently replaced my, (very) faithful 300TDI Auto with an 03 top spec TD5 auto.The SLS had already gone,I have removed the ACE and EGR - just for reliability's sake.Even the water sensor has been replaced with an M10 set screw in the fuel filter as I have seen them break off.Every little thing I can do to make the TD5 as reliable as my TDI is.

I've driven all of them for as long as they have been around as customers cars,but the main thing I want from my own car is safety and reliabilty.With a basic remap from Gary at TD5 Alive I now have a 7 seat 4wd that goes VERY well,tows like there is nothing attached and is comfy well beyond TDI standards.It has had 4 days worth of attention to the chassis to slow down the rust.If I can get 100,000m of reliable use out of it I'll be grateful.

Forgot to say, I've also completely rebuilt the engine,not a cheap process,but quite enjoyable...

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