Another hypothetical SVA question

[GBMUD]

An SVA test tests compliance with Construction and use regs, is that right? It is NOT an MOT and an MOT, if needed, would have to be saught seperatly.

Keeping the Disco's identity and not attempting to defraud anyone, would a 100" hybrid with, for example, Disco chassis, running gear and a S3 body need/pass an SVA test? What about S2a bodywork - metal dash, old style door hinges etc.? If they would not need an SVA, what about if it were an 88", that would be a chassis mod and therefor would need one right? I am guessing that it would be a commercial vehicle test.

Am I right in thinking that I could SVA a rotten old MOT failure of a Disco (as long as it met the spec for C&U), dump the body, fit a S3 body and MOT it and still be, more or less, legal as the vehicle has had an SVA test and passed an MOT?

I know that this may not fit withing the spirit of the law but how about within the letter or the law?

Que a disagreement...

Cheers

Chris

[Les Brock]

A 100 inch with body would need a SVA as per Dave Lang as the chassis is altered

To get in as a commercial it has to have no provision for passenger seats, mountings or seat belt or mountings otherwise it has to go through as a passenger vechicle

They might Question why your are SVA'ing a vechicle that already complies a type approval

[pugwash]

Les does this mean it can't have a front passenger seat either?

or is it just the rears that matter?

[Les Brock]

Les does this mean it can't have a front passenger seat either?

or is it just the rears that matter?

Just the rears or side benches etc that you can't have

[pugwash]

whats the deal with load bed ratio to seat position? isn't there some sort of measurement you have to take to prove that the car is commercial and not just a two seater?

[Les Brock]

whats the deal with load bed ratio to seat position? isn't there some sort of measurement you have to take to prove that the car is commercial and not just a two seater?

It "should" be the back of the seat base in the rearmost position to the centre line of the Steering wheel I think ,

the load bay has to be at least twice that measurement

Which is where you hit a problem with a 88 inch

But........when I spoke to big chief SVA bod at Swansea, if its a PICKUP it will be classed as a commercial....a trayback could be viewed differently , I never asked that one

[FridgeFreezer]

How do the current crop of crew-cabs get away with it as commercials then?

Les - do you have a name who is the voice of sanity at teh SVA then 'cos it seems different people get different answers depending on which SVA bod they ask...

[Les Brock]

How do the current crop of crew-cabs get away with it as commercials then?

Les - do you have a name who is the voice of sanity at teh SVA then 'cos it seems different people get different answers depending on which SVA bod they ask...

NEW Crew cabs there own type approval not an SVA

The name I cant remember but the number was 01792 45 8888

[sgnas]

A 100 inch with body would need a SVA as per Dave Lang as the chassis is altered

I've not read the book but wouldn't the "altering a chassis" rule be better aimed at changing the wheelbase rather than chopping the overhang off?

[Les Brock]

If you think about it,

ok so your not changing its length, it you fit a series/defender body you chop all the out riggers and body mounts off, rear crossmember etc and fit series/defender one

how does the chassis bare any resmblance to its original type approval other that the main legs

its only the fact that Land Rovers are big meccano sets that make it awkward, if it was a ford everyone would agree its wrong

Mine was built in 1999 now I'm having to SVA it, think how I feel about , that said if you can get away with it good for you , but are you sure your insurance would pay out if you god forbid had an accident, even if every mod is listed (mine were) as you can be assured if they can get out of it they will

and I'm only going off what I was told......when trying to wriggle out of doing mine

[miketomcat]

when i registered my tomcat (was a disco) i had to fill in the form and send a cheque for an SVA they then gave me a date for a VIC as i had the correct no of points but they needed to check to decide. i had already MOTed and insured it due to misinformation turned up points we checked off and the only part of the chassis he showed any interest in was the wheelbase, as this is unchanged no probs so new tax was paid SVA cheque riped up and new log book saying tomcat in post.

so you tell me because i know other people have had differing experances

as for SVA/MOTs you have to get the car SVAed then MOTed but most test stations will do the MOT after they have finished the SVA (they charge you for SVA and MOT at standard rates)

hope this helps if not your welcome to PM me if you want

mike

[T1G UP]

what a great debate this sva lark is.

can't see a poblem fitting a different body to a chassis cause landrover do it all the time!

cutting bits off the end can't make that much difference as the vehicle is recorded via it's wheel base.

would they know that you had to "alter" the chassis ie new outriggers,to fit a s3 body to it?

are you trying to avoid paying road tax? this is what i believe there trying to stop personally.

tomcat mans got the right way round things.

[GBMUD]

Keeping the Disco's identity and not attempting to defraud anyone

Chris

[Les Brock]

Exactly...

No I paid tax on mine, so no not blagging tax free....

My argument that it was built before they changed the rules in 2002(prior to that you could atler the chassis) fell on deaf ears

I have the enough points If you take when the vechicle was built

if you take away the chassis altered in 1999 I have'nt

but how the fupp can they back date it ?

you don't need seat belts in if it was built prior to X date, etc, etc

Its been insured as a Hybrid since then !

mutter, mutter......I'm seriously depressed

[Mark90]

tomcat mans got the right way round things.

Yep. Let the man from the inpectorate decide if you need an SVA, that way you know you are covered.

[filthy boy]

You do not need an MOT after the SVA. This issue has now been resolved, before it was unclear.

FB

[pugwash]

who resolved this?

you might like to pop over the cobra forums and let them konw as EVERY vehicle they build over there gets SVA'd and MOT'd.

[landrover598]

You do not need an MOT after the SVA

Strange, mine did

[Les Brock]

Errrr....

I read in somewhere in all the stuff i've been wading through that as it was in effect a new registration it did'nt need one for 3 years

[landrover598]

I read in somewhere in all the stuff i've been wading through that as it was in effect a new registration it did'nt need one for 3 years

This should be true, but the DVLA wouldn't give me my Q plate until an MOT certificate had been provdided, then they changed the certificate to include the new reg number

[missingsid]

what a great debate this sva lark is.

can't see a poblem fitting a different body to a chassis cause landrover do it all the time!

cutting bits off the end can't make that much difference as the vehicle is recorded via it's wheel base.

would they know that you had to "alter" the chassis ie new outriggers,to fit a s3 body to it?

are you trying to avoid paying road tax? this is what i believe there trying to stop personally.

tomcat mans got the right way round things.

So what happens when you have a rotten outrigger or cross member?

This is a repair but will look the same as a mod!

I understand the need to control bodges and unsafe motors.

What gets me is that as LR have bloody great axles we get hammered when an independent suspension car doesn’t. every rally car built from a production chassis/body has a re-welded chassis, different axles different gearbox and probably a different engine. Is this why a lot of current rally cars apear to be French registered?

Every newly chopped bike or true Hot Rod should be on a Q plate but I haven’t seen one yet except my mates which was ringed!

This subject always gets my goat.

[Les Brock]

Something that may be of interest that I got from somewhere and can't remember...

Might be usefull in the tech section

A Guide to Single Vehicle Approval - SVA

A couple of forms have changes (V55/4 & V55/5) and we're in the process of updating these:

We hope you enjoy our guide to Single Vehicle Approval. We have tried to make it as easy to understand as possible and have written it in plain English. We start off with some basic frequently asked questions and also detail what is tested, then we guide you through an SVA form, showing you how to fill it in correctly and maybe give you a few pointers. Finally we have a list of the current SVA test stations.

WHAT IS SVA?

SVA was introduced to regulate the Kitcar industry in the UK. Mainstream manufacturers products are subject to type approval at a cost of round £300,000 and the government decided there had to be a similar, less expensive system for component car manufacturers.

WHEN DID SVA START?

It started in 1998 and since that time any kit that is intended for road use (with a couple of exceptions) is subjected to and SVA test.

WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE TEST?

As follows: Anti-theft, demisting, wipers, seats, seat-belts, interior projections, radio suppression, glass, lighting, mirrors, tyres, doors, exterior, steering, design and construction, brakes, noise, emissions, projections, speedometer and weights.

Anti-theft devices – An item such as a battery "kill" switch will do.

Defrosting – Must be fitted with as system capable of giving the driver an adequate view ahead. Ducted heater air or embedded electric elements are both acceptable.

Wipers – Must move automatically. Must park so as not to obstruct driver’s view.

Seats – Must be firmly fixed.

Seat belts – Must be fitted with required number of anchorage points and be located at the correct height.

Interior – Must have no sharp or protruding edges.

Radio suppression – Must have suppression fitted.

Glass – Windows must be made of safety glass and of a recognised standard and marked by the manufacturer NOT by a glass agent.

Lights – Obligatory lights must be in the required positions, right colours and intensity and visible from required angles. Must not be sited below minimum height.

Mirrors - Checks for positions, and field of vision.

Tyres - Speed and load rating must be correct and must be "E" marked.

Doors etc - Must be capable of being securely latched with a 2-stage latch.

Exterior - Between floor and a height of 2 meters nothing must catch or risk injury to any person who could come into contact with the vehicle. Projections are dealt with here.

Design & Construction – Deals with all aspects of design safety and ensures that no danger is caused to any vehicle occupants or other road users.

Brakes - Vehicle must conform to listed operations, five tests are performed with ever increasing pedal pressure on the front and then the rear wheels.

Noise - Checks that exhaust system is complete a silencer is fitted and that 101db is not exceeded.

Emissions - Checked via an approved and calibrated exhaust gas analyser.

Speedometer - Checks accuracy of speedo within defined limits. If all speedometer related parts come from a single donor, this part of test not carried out.

Weights - Checks maximum gross weight and max permitted axle weights are not less then weights calculated using kerbside weights and passenger weight

A full SVA manual is available at a cost of £35 including P&P from –

VOSA

PO Box 12

Swansea

SA1 1BP

Or over the counter from any SVA test centre.

(Cheques payable to " VOSA ")

DOES IT COST ANYTHING FOR A RETEST IF I FAIL?

Yes it will cost you another £30.00

IF I GET A MAC CERTIFICATE I WON’T NEED AN MOT WILL I?

After a lot of arguments and deliberation, you will NOT need an MOT as well

as a MAC - UNLESS you build a kitcar that keeps the donor's registration (and

then you won't need the MAC anyway!) To keep the donor's registration, you

need to use its ORIGINAL and UNMODIFIED chassis or monocoque bodyshell. If

you do this, you won't need an SVA but you will need an MOT. In all other

cases (i.e. a kit built from all-new parts or a kit using some donor

components but not the complete donor chassis/shell) you will NOT need an

MOT for the first three years.

CAN I HAVE IT DONE AT THE SAME TIME?

Check with the station you intend using, most will do it for you.

CAN I GET MY CAR REGISTERED AFTER THE TEST?

Yes, but you will have to follow slightly different procedures depending on whether you want a "new" or an "age-related" registration.

If you want a "new" (current) registration number, you will have to ensure that your car is built from entirely new components OR has only ONE major component from the DVLA’s list that has been reconditioned to an AS NEW standard. You will need to be able to show all the receipts to prove this. Assuming you’ve got these, you will then need to fill in a "V55/4" form available from your local Vehicle Registry Office. They also produce a booklet (a "V355/4") on how to complete the V55/4. Besides these, you will also need:

The First Registration fee (£25)

Money for Road Tax (6 or 12 months)

Your Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate

A valid Certificate of Insurance

Either a "Declaration of Newness" (form V267) Or a declaration of newness from your kit supplier.

A declaration or receipt from the reconditioner if you have used one major reconditioned component.

If the car is "donor-built" (which the DVLA call a "kit conversion") the procedure is similar but not quite as difficult. You will need to complete a "V55/5" form (as opposed to the V55/4 form for a new registration) and you will also need:

Money for Road Tax (6 or 12 months)

Your Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate

A valid Certificate of Insurance.

MOT test.

You will also be asked to fill in a form in which you state where each of the major components (i.e. body, chassis, engine, transmission, axles, suspension, steering) came from. You get three choices – either "bought new", "from donor" or "other". If you claim a particular major component was bought new, you will need to show a receipt. If you claim it was from the donor, they might want to see a copy of the old logbook or, in the case of a non-identifiable component, inspect the vehicle and if you claim that enough major components were "other", you will probably get a "Q" plate.

Registration is a very complicated area so we will be producing a more detailed article including some sample forms in the near future. Watch this website for further details.

SO HOW LONG WILL I HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE TEST?

Depending on where you have your car tested it could be anything from 1 to 6 weeks.

YOU SAID THERE WERE EXCEPTIONS WHAT ARE THEY?

Currently three wheelers under 410kg and vehicles that retain an unmodified donor chassis.

I’VE JUST BOUGHT AN OLD 2ND HAND KIT CAR I’LL BE OKAY WON’T I?

Hmm, well if your vehicle is correctly described on the V5 document as exactly what it is rather then the donor then yes you are okay. On the other hand if it’s described as the donor vehicle, you have problems and you may find yourself subject to SVA.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE SVA FORM.

Click small images to view full size forms:

Example SVA App. form.

Part 1 & 2.

Notes for completion of

SVA App. form.

(NB: See help notes below)

Notes for completion of the SVA Application form.

The SVA test application form has changed considerably since it was first introduced a few years ago. The form now takes up four pages (with the completion notes) but a fair amount of information is redundant for the amateur builder.

Above you will have seen a completed specimen form and outlined below, are a few points to be read in conjunction with the notes on the application form. The numbers refer to the question numbers on the application form.

Q1. VIN. On mass produced cars in the EC there will always be a 17-character number starting with three letters – the "World Manufacturer Identity". The rest of the characters are used to denote model, variant, assembly plant and whatever other information the manufacturer desires. As far as the amateur builder is concerned, the Vehicle Inspectorate will accept ANY reasonable combination of letters or numbers comprising more than 8 characters. As an amateur builder, you might have been assigned a number with the kit or you might have to make your own up. Make sure you choose a combination not likely to be repeated by someone else – for example "00000001" will be unlikely to satisfy the Vehicle Inspectorate. If for any reason, they don’t like your choice of number, they will assign you a DVLA number. These numbers always start "SAB****" and consist of 17 characters. The only drawback of such numbers is that these are the series the DVLA usually allocate to re-shelled mass produced cars so the police often concentrate their searches for stolen vehicles on these cars. We’re not saying it will happen but you might get more than your fair share of attention from the local constabulary if awarded one of these!

Q2-7. These questions are pretty self-explanatory. The second choice of SVA station is rarely used but the more notice you can give them the better. You can always call the station you’re thinking of using and ask what the waiting list is like for amateur built cars. If it’s very long you will have to book a long way ahead or choose another test centre. Please remember that all bookings are done through Swansea. You cannot book directly with the test centre. Another point to bear in mind is that centres will carry out tests outside normal working hours for an additional charge. The price for a standard SVA test is £150, but for an "out of hours" test the price rises to £225.

Q8. The vehicle category is very important in determining the emissions test criteria. ALL amateur builders will be category "A". This applies even if the same type of vehicle is available in fully built form from the manufacturer. As far as you, the manufacturer and the Vehicle Inspectorate are concerned, ANY kit where you have undertaken "a substantial part of the build" OR "persons acting on your behalf who do not build cars as a business" have built it for you, is amateur built. The definition of "a substantial part of the build" is somewhat fluid but basically, if the manufacturer or professional build agent have not assembled more than two major components off the DVLA’s list, it is counted as amateur built. As an example, therefore, if the manufacturer has put the suspension on the chassis, or the body on the chassis or the engine or the transmission on the chassis for you, it still counts as amateur built as long as you do the rest.

Not all the kit car manufacturers will be aware that the Vehicle Inspectorate tends to take the opportunity to contact every amateur build applicant for an SVA Test. When the VI Head Office at Swansea receive an SVA application form for a Category "A" vehicle they automatically send the applicant a short questionnaire to fill in and a declaration to sign. This questionnaire asks them to confirm that either themselves or the manufacturer assembled various major components onto the chassis/body.

It would be worth bearing in mind that the Vehicle Inspectorate doesn’t generally regard a vehicle that has had more than two major components fitted to the body/chassis by the manufacturer as being amateur built. If you send the form off having stated that MORE than 2 major components were assembled by a professional, the VI will insist that the kit is tested either as a category "L" or "C". This could lead to tougher emissions standards than you envisaged!

Q10. does not apply to amateur-built cars.

Q11. Is self-explanatory.

Q12. The answer to the first part of this question relates to the date you presented the car for test, it does not relate to the date you bought the kit.

Q14. This question is of huge importance to an amateur builder. It tells the Vehicle Inspectorate what emissions test to carry out on your car. If your car uses an engine from an older vehicle, you must give the date the engine was first built. The emissions test will then be carried out on your car as if it was built in the same year as the engine. In the case quoted in the example, this was 1982.

Please be warned that the VI will ask for PROOF of the engine’s age. In the vast majority of cases, a copy of the UK registration document showing the engine number in your donor car will suffice. This is true even if the engine came out of a bike. If you haven’t got this, you will need some other form of acceptable "documentary evidence". The best thing would be a letter on the engine manufacturer’s letterhead stating the age of the engine. In some cases (particularly with some American engines) you might be able to get a generic letter stating that "…engines with numbers starting "ABC123 (for example)" were manufactured between (say) 1980 and 1982". If this is the case, the VI will assume that the engine in your car has been built on the latest date quoted so make sure the range quoted in the letter doesn’t straddle an emissions test changeover date! Whatever means of proof you choose, the onus is on YOU, the presenter, to convince the tester of the engine’s age.

Some builders get their engines reconditioned to an "as new" standard in order to get a current ("new") registration from the DVLA. Remember the VI doesn’t care about this so do not give the date of manufacture as being the date it was reconditioned. If you do, you’ll end up having to do a catalyst emissions test!

Finally, if you cannot prove the engine’s age, you will have to do a catalyst emissions test!

Q15. None of this question applies to amateur-built kit cars.

Q16. If at all possible, it is best to obtain the design weights from the kit manufacturer. The Vehicle Inspectorate mainly uses these to carry out the brake test and tyre inspection so your manufacturer ought to be able to provide data that will ensure a pass. If you have built the car substantially differently to the way stipulated in the build manual (e.g. an engine option not covered by the manufacturer) you will have to provide your own weights but be sure that the car’s structure is capable of carrying the extra weight, as this will be assessed during the test!

Basically, the "Design Weight for axle 1" is the maximum weight that the front axle can put on the ground. Similarly, that for axle 2, is the maximum permitted rear axle weight. When you go for your SVA test, you must ensure the fuel tank is full. If you want to obtain your own weights, you can do this at any public weighbridge (see your Yellow Pages). Remember to obtain a front axle weight (with the car empty but full of fuel), a rear axle weight (with the car empty but full of fuel) and then each axle again with 68kg in each passenger seat and 7kg for each passenger in the luggage compartment. DO NOT add (for a 2 seater car) 150kg and split this evenly between the front and rear axles because they will NOT necessarily carry the same share of the load! The tester will weigh each end of the car empty and check that when he adds the weight of the occupants (68kg for each seat and 7kg of luggage for each occupant) neither axle becomes overloaded according to the weights you have declared. If it does, it will fail the test. It is worth noting that the Gross Vehicle Weight (the fourth box on the form) does not necessarily have to equal the sum of the axle weights. Obviously, it can never be more than the sum of the axle weights but it can sometimes be less. This simply means that you are not permitted to load both axles to their maximum weights simultaneously. The last box is only applicable if the vehicle is built to tow a trailer. If it is, this box contains the maximum permitted weight of the whole combination.

The Gross Vehicle Weight is used in the braking test. Basically, the maximum weights are used to check that the brakes can stop the car fully loaded and the unladen weights (plus driver) are used to check the balance between the front and rear brakes. As the Vehicle Inspectorate are effectively giving your car the "OK" by granting the approval certificate, they need to be sure that it won’t display any untoward handling characteristics (like the rear wheels locking before the fronts do) under any conditions. For this reason, they will want to check brakes under all conditions (especially if an adjustable brake bias bar is fitted).

Q17. This is the last significant question for the amateur builder. The declaration of maximum road speed is used mainly to check that the correct tyres have been fitted. In the example given, the car is capable of very high speed so a written declaration from the tyre manufacturer stating that it is capable of running at the stated speed and load will be required. Obviously for lower speed and load combinations, the load and speed code on the tyre sidewall will suffice.

The maximum power engine speed is used in the noise test. Currently, the noise test is a static test where the engine is run in neutral at ¾ of the speed at which it develops maximum power. If, for example, it develops maximum power at 6000RPM, the noise test will be carried out at 4500RPM. In cases where the presenter is not able to provide a realistic maximum power engine speed, the tester will use the default engine speed of 2/3 of the redline engine speed. This means that if the maximum permitted engine speed is 6000RPM, the test will be carried out at 4000RPM. A word of caution might be appropriate here, when it comes to cars with bike engines. These are capable of revving to huge speeds and this makes the noise test proportionately more difficult for such engines. A bike engine developing maximum power at 9000RPM would be tested at 6750RPM. If that same engine redlined at (say) 11,000RPM and the presenter didn’t quote a maximum power speed, the test would be done at 7333RPM.

Here’s a current list of all the SVA test stations around the UK:

[Les Brock]

Part 3 Kits that retain the donor CHASSIS

In part 2, we looked at “kit conversions” (“DVLA-speak” for “donor-built” kitcars) i.e. those based on at least some second-hand components from a donor vehicle. The third type of “kitcar” is one where the vehicle retains the donor vehicle’s complete, unmodified chassis or monocoque body. This is the most straightforward case because as far as the DVLA are concerned, it is the same car. The key word here is “unmodified”. Up until January 2001, this word was missing and this lead to some pretty dramatic modifications escaping SVA. In an effort to reduce the number of vehicles slipping through the net, the DVLA altered the wording in its “INF 26” document to say, “original, unmodified chassis or unaltered monocoque bodyshell”. Click Here to see both sides of the DVLA’s INF 26 leaflet entitled “Guidelines for the registration of rebuilt or radically altered vehicles and kitcars”. This now means that there are precious few kits which can genuinely retain the donor registration and escape SVA. Good examples might be the “Dakar” 4x4 based on a Range Rover chassis, various kits based on the American Pontiac Fiero or the Lomax 224 based on the Citroen 2CV chassis. VW Beetle-based kits, on the other hand, need treating with caution. Many beach buggies, for example, use a shortened Beetle floorpan and while this might be perfectly safe in engineering terms (if done properly) it could certainly not be regarded as being “unaltered”. The truth of the matter is that donor cars with separate chassis are becoming rarer. Once, there would have been a broad range of kits based on the Triumph Herald but now, Heralds are becoming rare and collectable in their own right.

Obviously, the lure of being able to escape an SVA test is strong and this has resulted in some manufacturers trying to claim that all sorts of things should constitute a “chassis”. For the record, we believe a chassis to be a single, continuous, frame to which suspension and drive train are attached and which is capable of adequately withstanding “in-service” loads without any additional reinforcement. This means that a “chassis” is NOT both subframes from a donor car. Similarly, it is NOT, the floorpan cut out of a sheet steel monocoque car! In general, a good test of whether or not the vehicle has a chassis is to see if you can remove the body without cutting anything – merely removing mechanical fasteners AND see that the bit with the engine and suspension still attached to it is a one-piece structure.

Having said all that, it must also be said that the decision as to whether or not the original unaltered chassis has been used rests with your DVLA Local Office. Regardless of the engineering implications, if you can convince them it’s a chassis, then a chassis it is!

Once you have established that your kit does, indeed retain the unaltered donor chassis the steps you need to take and the paperwork that must be completed are outlined below. It is also important to understand that this article outlines the registration procedure as we see it. Due to the great degree of autonomy that the DVLA has allowed its Vehicle Registry Offices, many of them will tailor the process of applying for a registration document to suit their own systems of working. Accordingly, don’t be distressed if your particular registration doesn’t go exactly according to the procedure laid down here. If, however, you do feel you have been unfairly treated, please get in touch and we will do our best to help!

Another very important point is that the DVLA are likely to be reviewing their policy towards donor-built kits in the next few months. This is likely to lead to changes being implemented so please keep checking the site throughout your build! We will publish any changes to the requirements as soon as we hear of them.

The first thing you need (at the risk of sounding too obvious!) is a donor chassis. Seriously, very few vehicles these days truly have a chassis so your choices are limited. Many of those that do are, themselves rare and collectable (Lotus, TVR etc) so there’s not much chance of getting one of these. Why am I saying this? Well, really to highlight the fact that Vehicle Registration Offices don’t expect to see many cars with a donor chassis so you should expect to be examined thoroughly when you present your case.

You then need to update the donor’s V5C document. Remember that effectively, the DVLA will treat a kit car with a donor chassis as still being the donor car but with a different body on it. Accordingly, they would expect to see the V5C for the donor returned to them for updating. The recorded vehicle details on the new-style V5Cs appear in Section 4. Any changes to the vehicle should be recorded by you in section 7 of the V5C. Click Here to see a completed sample V5C for a donor-chassis kitcar.

It is worth mentioning at this point that the V5C document has changed. Everyone who has bought, sold, taxed, declared as “SORN” (Statutory Off Road Notification) or modified a vehicle in the last year or so should already have received a “new-style” V5C. This is a large, A4 sized 4-sided document, which is now standardised across all EC Member States. At the time of writing, the DVLA is doing one last sweep of all the vehicles on their computer to try and catch any vehicles that still have the old-style V5. For the most part, the vehicles that will not have the new-style documents will be those that were not taxed (i.e. off the road) before 1998. It is very important that you get your donor a new-style V5C before you turn the car into a kit. Phone your DVLA Local Office for more details. You should be sent a new-style registration document and it is this document that you should make the changes on. Note that from June 2006, the old-style documents will cease to have any legal value.

Depending on what you do to the car, you will have to write the changes in the boxes provided next to each entry. The first item is “Wheelplan / Body type”. You might retain the same wheelplan (usually “2-axle rigid body” for most 4-wheeled cars) or you might alter one or both (such as by turning a Citroen 2CV chassis into a three-wheeler chassis for a Lomax or Blackjack). Similarly, you might well change the body type from a “4 door saloon” to a “convertible”. Whatever you do, simply write the new descriptions in the boxes. Lists of recognised wheelplans and body types are published in Appendices “G” and “H” of the DVLA’s booklet, V355, entitled “Guidance Notes for the Completion of V55 forms” Click here to see a copy of Appendix “G” (Body codes) and Click Here to see a copy of Appendix “H” (Wheelplan codes).

The next item is the “VIN/Chassis/Frame number.” THIS MUST NOT CHANGE. If you change this, you are effectively creating another vehicle and, in doing so, you will have to undergo an SVA test and you might end up with a “Q” plate if you haven’t used enough components from the donor!

The next entry relates to “Revenue Weight”. This only relates to goods vehicles so it is unlikely to change for most kitcars.

The next field (Field 24) is the cylinder capacity. If the engine capacity changes, write the new capacity in the appropriate box. It is worth noting that your local Vehicle Registration Office may want documentary proof of the new engine’s capacity because if (for example) it is smaller than the original capacity stated on the donor’s V5C, the car may become eligible for less road tax. They might also want to inspect the vehicle. It is up to the individual office concerned to say exactly what proof they require but generally, a copy of the V5C from the vehicle that the engine was taken (not your donor) would be useful to keep with all the other build documents.

If the number of seats has changed (say from 4 to2), note the change in field No. 25. The number of standing places (field 26) does not apply to cars.

Field 28 is for the engine number. If you fit a different engine, write the new engine number next to the old one in the space provided.

Often, however, the vehicle’s colour changes. If it has, write the new colour in the space provided. The DVLA have only 19 colours on their computer that they can use to describe a vehicle. These are listed in Appendix “I” of the V355 booklet. If your vehicle happens to be painted in “Saharan Sandglow Passion”, just call it “yellow” or “orange” – whichever is closest. It might not have the same panache, but it makes everyone’s life easier! Click here for the complete list.

While you are updating the V5C, it is ESSENTIAL that you also change the vehicle make and model. You may have read a great deal in the kit car press about the potential problems associated with having an incorrectly registered kit (i.e. a kit that is still registered as the donor vehicle) so this step is absolutely vital. You will also notice that there is no space on the V5C to amend these details so the DVLA’s advice is that you send a covering letter along with your amended V5C. This letter must clearly state the new vehicle details. Click Here to see a sample letter – feel free to use the same format with your own vehicle details if you wish.

The amended V5C, together with the covering letter must then be sent to the DVLA in Swansea. The address is:

DVLA,

Swansea,

SA99 1BA.

In due course, you should receive a letter from Swansea asking you to make an appointment to have the vehicle inspected by your local Vehicle Registration Office. This doesn’t always happen because sometimes, the DVLA doesn’t feel that the modifications are serious enough to warrant an inspection. If this is the case with your kit, you will receive an amended V5C through the post and the matter will end there! If they DO think it needs inspecting, read on. The purpose of this inspection will be to check that the vehicle is how it was described in your letter and amended V5C. Some Vehicle Registration Officers will visit you at the place where the vehicle is kept, others will insist on it being brought to the DVLA Local Office (remember to confirm whether or not they will allow you to drive it on the road at this stage!) and others use the local police to carry out the inspection. You might be asked to fill in a Built-Up Vehicle inspection form.

The “Built Up Vehicle Inspection Report” – form V627/1, is often filled in by the Vehicle Registry Office Inspector when the car is inspected. The form is pretty straightforward but if you have to fill your own in, the following notes may be helpful:

The “Present Registration Mark” box in the top right-hand corner, will obviously contain the donor’s registration number. Remember that the make and model of the vehicle are NOT those of the donor vehicle. If the car is a “Lomax”, for example, you must put this on the form and NOT “Citroen” (or whatever the donor was).

To see an example of the Built-up Vehicle Inspection form (V627/1) for a donor-built kit car that retains the donor CHASSIS, click here. Note that the example is for a kit based on an Alfa Romeo 164 chassis. The more alert readers among you will have spotted that Alfa 164s do NOT actually have a separate chassis but this was the only V5C document readily to hand at the time of writing! For the colour and taxation class, use the same colour and taxation class as you wrote on the V5C. NOTE: The year of manufacture will be the year the donor was built (e.g. 1988) and NOT the current year. If the car is currently licensed, tick the “yes” box on the form. If not, tick the “No” box.

The rest of the V627/1 form consists of a table showing where each of the major components came from. Remember that in order to retain the donor registration (and escape SVA), you need to use the original, unmodified chassis AND at least TWO major components from the donor. These could be:

Engine,

Transmission,

Suspension (both ends)

Axles (both ends)

Steering assembly.

Failure to prove this will result in the allocation of a “Q” plate!

Precisely what constitutes an “axle” or “suspension” these days, is highly open to interpretation and the final decision rests with the DVLA Local Office although an appeals procedure does exist.

Returning to the table on the V627/1 form, if, for instance, the engine came from the donor vehicle, they would expect to see the engine number in the first column, the donor’s registration number in the second column, the donor’s make in the third column and a tick or cross in the fourth column depending on whether the receipt was available. Obviously, it would be a good idea to keep the donor’s V5C (or a copy if you have sold or scrapped the vehicle) showing that engine number as further evidence. In the example shown, the donor engine has NOT been used, consequently, the engine number is different to that on the original V5C.

If you used (say) the steering assembly from the donor vehicle, there will obviously be no serial number to record but the other three columns can be filled in.

If you have bought a reconditioned (say) transmission, and it didn’t come out of the donor, you must write “reconditioned” in the column marked “origin”. Note that if the donor vehicle happened to have been fitted with a reconditioned transmission before it was broken up to use as a donor, you would still regard the transmission as coming from the donor even though it is not necessarily the transmission the car was built with. If the transmission was new or second-hand but not from the donor, you should write either “new” or “second hand” in this column. Obviously, receipts to support your claims would be essential.

If you are building a car with a motorcycle engine, you put the engine number and donor registration (if you have it) in the top table and not the lower one. The form relates to the built up CAR that you have completed. NOT the donor that you have raided for parts. Obviously, if you are building a kit motorcycle, you use the bottom table.

Finally, you must state how you disposed of the rest of the donor vehicle. In most cases, this will be by taking it to a scrap yard.

The last thing you will need is, of course, an MOT certificate – assuming the donor was more than 3 years old. You are allowed to drive the car to and from a pre-booked MOT test before it is registered and taxed provided you have adequate insurance cover. Check with your insurers.

To summarise then:

1. Find your donor vehicle with its separate chassis. Make sure the chassis or VIN code on the vehicle you buy is the same as the one on its V5C Registration document.

2. Make sure you have the new-style “V5C” registration document for the donor – not the old V5.

3. Do your conversion. Remember that you must use the “original and unmodified” donor chassis AND at least TWO major components from the same car.

4. Fill in the amendments on the base vehicle’s V5C (e.g. engine number and capacity, colour, body type etc.)

5. Take the vehicle for an MOT test.

6. Send the amended V5 to the DVLA along with a covering letter asking them to change the vehicle make and model.

7. When told to by Swansea, take the vehicle to your local Vehicle Registration Office along with its MOT. You may need to complete the Built Up Vehicle inspection form V627/1.

[Les Brock]

Part 2 Kits built from New AND ‘Donor’ Parts

In the last article, we looked at kitcars built from all-new components. The other, more commonly occurring type of kit car is called a ‘kit conversion’ by the DVLA. This is what the kitcar industry would call a ‘donor-built’ kitcar and all are based on at least two, major secondhand components from a donor vehicle. The procedure for registering one of these cars is similar to that for registering a brand new kit car but there are some important differences. The steps you need to take and the paperwork that must be completed are outlined below. It is also important to understand that this article outlines the registration procedure as we at Totalkitcar.com see it. Due to the great degree of autonomy that the DVLA has allowed its Vehicle Registry Offices, many of them will tailor the process of applying for a registration document to suit their own systems of working. Accordingly, don’t be distressed if your particular registration doesn’t go exactly according to the procedure laid down here. If, however, you do feel you have been unfairly treated, please get in touch and we will do our best to help!

One of the areas where confusion most frequently arises is the question of whether or not you need an MOT certificate AS WELL AS an SVA certificate to register the car. The answer is ‘NO’. Just like a new ‘kit car’, a donor-built vehicle, (or ‘kit conversion’ as the DVLA calls them), will have a current ‘date of first registration’. The difference is that donor-built cars will have at least a few secondhand components on them. That said, the DVLA will still be awarding a ‘first registration’ and this means that in the eyes of the law, the car is NOT required to have an MoT certificate until three years after it is registered. Obviously, if you want to get an MoT certificate you may still do so but it is not a legal requirement. We believe that an MoT test would be a sensible thing to do as it is always a good idea to have another pair of trained eyes look over the vehicle before you set off on what could be a 100 mile round-trip to the SVA station.

Regardless of whether or not you get an MOT certificate, you will need the following documents before you can register your donor-built kit with an age-related registration:

1. A valid certificate of insurance.

2. Proof of identity and address. This is usually a DVLA photocard driving licence but a variety of alternative documents that are accepted by the DVLA are listed on their website.

See http://www.dvla.gov.uk/newrules/reg_vehicles.htm

3. The payment for the road tax (6 or 12 months) and the first registration fee. This is currently £38.00 for a passenger car.

4. The original Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate. Please NOTE, you don’t get this back so you may wish to make a copy for yourself as a souvenir or for your own records. CLICK HERE if you want to see an example of a typical Minister’s Approval Certificate.

5. A declaration of where all the major components came from. This is usually in the form of a ‘Built Up Vehicle Inspection Report’ – form V627/1. There is one in the ‘Forms’ section on the DVLA website as a ‘pdf’ document at http://www.dvla.gov.uk/forms/pdf/v627_1online.pdf if you want to download one. Sometimes, the DVLA Local Office Inspector fills in these forms when the car is inspected. The form is pretty straightforward and in most cases, there won’t be a current registration number, so leave that box empty. It will be filled in when the number is allocated. Remember that the make and model of the vehicle are NOT those of the donor vehicle. If the car is a ‘Westfield’, for example, you must put this on the form and NOT ‘Ford’ (or whatever the donor was). To see an example of the completed Built-up Vehicle Inspection form for a donor-built kit (V627/1) CLICK HERE. NOTE: The year of manufacture will be the year you passed the SVA test and NOT the year the donor was built! Also, the car will generally NOT be currently licenced, so don’t be afraid to tick the ‘no’ box on the form.

The rest of the V627/1 form consists of a table showing where each of the major components came from. If, for instance, the engine came from the donor vehicle whose age you want to use to get your age-related plate, they would expect to see the engine number in the first column, the donor’s registration number in the second column, the donor’s make in the third column and a tick or cross in the fourth column depending on whether the receipt was available. Obviously, it would be a good idea to keep the donor’s V5 (or a copy if you have sold or scrapped the vehicle) showing that engine number as further evidence.

If you used for example the steering assembly from the donor vehicle, there will obviously be no serial number to record but the other three columns can be filled in.

If you have bought a reconditioned transmission, and it didn’t come out of the donor, you must write ‘reconditioned’ in the column marked ‘origin’. Note that if the donor vehicle happened to have been fitted with a reconditioned transmission before it was broken up to use as a donor, you would still regard the transmission as coming from the donor even though it is not necessarily the transmission the car was built with. If the transmission was new or second-hand but not from the donor, you should write either ‘new’ or ‘secondhand’ in this column. Obviously, receipts to support your claims would be essential.

Please NOTE. To get an age-related registration (one showing the same age as the donor) you need to have used at least TWO major components from THAT donor. Failure to prove this will result in the allocation of a ‘Q’ plate!

If you are building a car with a motorcycle engine, you put the engine number and donor registration (if you have it) in the top table and not the lower one. The form relates to the built up CAR that you have completed. NOT the donor that you have raided for parts. Obviously, if you are building a kit motorcycle, you use the bottom table.

Finally, you must state how you disposed of the rest of the donor vehicle. In most cases, this will be by taking it to a scrapyard.

6. You also need to complete a V55/5 – an “Application for a first licence for a motor vehicle and declaration for registration”. This is a daunting, blue two-sided form with a carbon paper in between the pages. It is not as bad as it first appears because most of the questions are ‘N/A’ as far as kits are concerned. You can get one from your DVLA Local Office. Unfortunately, because of the carbon paper, you can’t download them from the DVLA website but there are some guidance notes available from the DVLA to help you complete the V55/5. These are contained in form No. V355/5 “How to complete form V55/5” and it is essential that you also get one of these before attempting to fill the form in. You can get them from your DVLA Local Office but we have also scanned a copy of each and put it on the website for you. Remember it is four pages long! To see a copy of the V355/5, CLICK HERE. To see a completed example of a V55/5 form, CLICK HERE.

Finally, in addition to those notes on the V355/5 leaflet, we have also produced our own guidance notes as follows. In cases where the question is self-explanatory or no further clarification is needed beyond what is written on the V355/5, we have left that question out.

Question 2. ‘Taxation class’. In the vast majority of cases, the answer in this box will be ‘PLG’ (Private / Light Goods) but the current DVLA instructions on the V355/4 leaflet tell you to leave this box blank.

Question 4. …asks for the registration fee and duty payable. The registration fee for a private car is currently £38.00 and the ‘Duty’ is the ‘road tax’. This will depend on engine size and how long you want to tax the vehicle for. The current charges are given in form V149 – available from DVLA Local Offices or on the DVLA website: http://www.dvla.gov.uk/forms/online_leaflets.htm#start

Question 5. …asks for the make. Be sure you give the kit make -NOT the donor make!

Question 6. …asks for the model. Be sure you give the kit model -NOT the donor model!

Question 7. …asks for the type of body/vehicle. The common choices are ‘2-door saloon’, ‘4-door saloon’, ‘convertible’, ‘estate’ or ‘coupé’. CLICK HERE if you want to see the full list of options on the DVLA computer.

Question 8. …asks for the wheel plan. This will nearly always be ‘two axle rigid-body’ for a conventional four-wheeled car but CLICK HERE if you want to see the full list of options on the DVLA computer.

Question 9. The DVLA have only 19 colours on their computer that they can use to describe a vehicle. If your vehicle happens to be painted in Saharan Sandglow Passion, just call it yellow or orange – whichever is closest. It might not have the same panache, but it makes everyone’s life easier! CLICK HERE for the complete list on the DVLA’s computer.

Question 10. The instructions on the DVLA’s V355/4 form tell you to leave this box blank and the Local Office will fill in the necessary information from your SVA certificate. Basically, these record what type of car it is and what emissions limits it will have to pass at future MOT tests.

Question 14. …asks for the Hydrocarbon emissions figure. A box for this appears on the Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate but is not completed for an amateur builder. If the relevant box on the MAC is marked, ‘N/A’ you must put ‘N/A’ in the box on the V55/5.

Question 17. …asks for the Maximum Net Power. This is a ‘Mandatory’ field so it must be filled in. You can get the engine’s power output (‘at the flywheel’) from the kit manufacturer or your engine builder. As the registration forms are now the same across Europe, it should be expressed in kw (Kilowatts) rather than BHP).

Question 18. …asks for the Technical Permissible Maximum Towable Mass of trailer (with and without brakes). This should be ‘N/A’ for most kit cars as they generally don’t tow trailers. If your kit can tow a trailer, you should get these two figures from the manufacturer. Typically it will be less than 500kg for an unbraked trailer but depending on the weight of the kit can be rather larger for a braked trailer.

Question 23. …asks for the Maximum Permissible Weight. This is the ‘fully-loaded’ weight of the vehicle and will be on the SVA certificate as the ‘Gross Weight’.

Question 25. …asks for the date of original registration. This form is the same one as used for registering cars imported from other countries so it could be that the date of first registration (in another country) is different from the date of registration in the UK. As far as a donor-built kit car is concerned, this is the first time your car will be receiving this particular age-related registration so you must put the CURRENT YEAR. – typically, the date you passed the SVA test.

Question 26. …asks for the date of registration in the UK. Again, this form is the same one as used for registering cars imported from other countries so it could be that the date of first registration (in another country) is different from the date of registration in the UK. As far as a donor-built kit car is concerned, this is the first time your car will be receiving this particular age-related registration so you must put the CURRENT YEAR. – typically, the date you passed the SVA test.

Question 30. …asks for the VIN number. Note that this is the VIN of the kit and NOT the VIN of the donor.

Question 33. …asks for the CO2 figure from the Minister’s Approval Certificate. This is not recorded for amateur built cars. It is only used for vehicles that have been through the Enhanced SVA test. If ‘N/A’ is written on your Minister’s Approval Certificate, (or if it doesn’t appear at all) you should put ‘N/A’ on the V55/5.

Question 34. …asks for the ‘Mass in service’ This is also mandatory so it must be filled in. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear on the Minister's Approval Certificate. Basically, it is just the weight of the empty car but with a full tank of fuel and a 75kg driver. Obviously it will be less than the Maximum Permissible Mass in Question 23.

Question 36. …is similar to Question 33 and asks for the CO figure. As with Question 14, if ‘N/A’ appears on your Minister’s Approval Certificate, this is what you must put on the V55/5.

Question 37. …is also similar to Question 33 and asks for the HC + NOx figure. As with Question 14, if ‘N/A’ appears on your Minister’s Approval Certificate, this is what you must put on the V55/5.

Question 42. …asks for the year the vehicle was built. This will be the CURRENT YEAR and NOT the year the donor car was built.

The rest of the questions are self-explanatory but remember to sign and date the form at the end. Please also be sure to remember the rest of the questions that appear on the back of the first page.

Once you have done all this, you should be in a position to register your vehicle. Some Vehicle Registration Offices will want to inspect the vehicle and some will not (see section 5). Of those that do, some will visit you at the place where the vehicle is kept, others will insist on it being brought to the VRO (remember to confirm whether or not they will allow you to drive it on the road at this stage!) and others use the local police to carry out the inspection. The purpose of the inspection is simply to check that the vehicle you want to register is what you say it is. If we assume the worst, you might be asked to fill in the Built-Up Vehicle inspection form mentioned in Section 5.

In summary then, the process is relatively straightforward but can vary slightly between local vehicle Registration Offices. We advise discussing your vehicle with your local VRO at an early stage.

The following checklist may also be useful.

SVA certificate

Insurance Certificate

Money for road tax (depends on engine size and duration of tax) & first registration fee (£38).

Completed V55/5 form (both sides)

Built-Up Vehicle Inspection Form (sometimes completed by a VRO inspector)

Donor Vehicle’s V5 (or a copy if the vehicle has been scrapped).

All receipts.

In the next article, we will consider the case of a vehicle built using the original and unmodified chassis or monocoque shell from the donor. The DVLA also refers to such vehicles as ‘kit conversions’ but provided the original and unmodified chassis or monocoque shell AND at least two other major components from the donor are used, they can keep the donor vehicle’s registration AND therefore do not have to undergo an SVA test.

[Les Brock]

Incorectly Registered Kitcars

There has been a great deal of debate over the last year or so regarding ‘incorrectly registered kits’. These are kitcars that never had their correct ‘make’ and ‘model’ stated on their V5 registration document, but retained the donor vehicle’s make and model instead. We have now had news from the DVLA that they have FINALLY formulated a policy regarding these kits.

Before we outline the policy, however, a bit of history might provide some useful background.

Long before SVA was ever dreamed of, building a kitcar and putting it on the road was a very simple matter. One simply chose a kit, bought a donor vehicle, did the necessary work and went for an MoT test. Unfortunately, however, although many kits were perfectly soundly engineered, there were a few out there that left a little to be desired in terms of safety and compliance with various legal requirements. The problem was that although the MoT test could check the condition of various safety-critical components, it couldn’t check the design of those components. It was therefore possible to have (say) tyres of a completely inadequate speed and load rating on a kit and still be allowed out on the road as long as they had enough tread. Similarly, as long as the correct seat belts were fitted and working, it didn’t really matter if they were held into the floor with a couple of pop rivets!

It was as a result of these concerns that the SVA scheme was introduced. Initially dubbed the ‘Super MoT’, it finally emerged in pretty much the same form that we are familiar with today. It was modelled on a mixture of the old British National Type Approval scheme, the UK Construction and Use Regulations and the UK Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations. Although the last two sets of regulations did, in fact, apply to any vehicle used on a public road, their requirements were frequently ignored by kitcar manufacturers and constructors alike.

The way the regulations were drafted, the SVA test only legally applied to a vehicle being ‘first registered’ for use on a public road. As a result, the DVLA had to introduce a scheme whereby anyone building a car themselves got a ‘new’ registration. That way, the vehicle was classed as being ‘first registered’ and would have to go through the SVA test. On the other hand, the DVLA were keen not to mislead the public into thinking that a car built largely from second-hand parts was ‘new’. There was also a further complication in that some ‘kits’ really didn’t change the original donor vehicle that much and these could possibly be classed as still being the original vehicle.

This resulted in the introduction of the three distinct types of ‘kit vehicle’ that the DVLA still uses today.

A kitcar’ was a kit built entirely from new parts. This was straightforward. It could be allocated a ‘new’ registration without any fear of misleading the public and in doing so; it would obviously have to undergo the SVA test.

A ‘kit conversion’ was a car built from a mixture of old and new parts. These might have been an existing chassis with a different body, engine and seating plan, or maybe a new chassis and running gear but with a donor engine, transmission, brakes etc. These were dealt with by allocating a registration number, which suggested the car was the same age as its donor parts but NOT to allow it to keep the same registration as the donor vehicle. In that way, the vehicle would have a registration number that did not suggest the car was ‘new’ but at the same time, it would still have to undergo the SVA test because it would be the first time that the particular car in question had been issued with that particular registration –i.e. ‘first registered’.

Finally, they created a third category, which was a car that kept the original and unmodified chassis or bodyshell from the donor vehicle. These were deemed to still be the donor vehicle and that is why they are able to keep the actual donor registration and do not need to do an SVA test.

So that pretty much brings us up to date. It doesn’t deal with ‘Q’ plates or ‘Radically altered vehicles’ but it is reasonable outline of what happens to most kits currently registered in the UK.

So what about those older kits that are ‘incorrectly registered’?

Most ‘incorrectly registered’ kits were built before SVA came into force. July 1st 1998 is the important date here. Up until then, there was no SVA test to go through and although a kit builder SHOULD have informed the DVLA of the changes he was making to the donor vehicle, many chose not to do so. To be fair to the kit builders, some of the problem was that many years ago, the DVLA’s computer couldn’t cope with makes and models other than those of the major manufacturers stored in its memory. Nowadays, however, you can call a kit pretty much anything you like. (…and I’m sure many of us do so quite frequently)!

So for one reason or another, there were a great many kits running about whose registration documents would state a make of (say) Triumph and a model of ‘Herald’ rather than the make ‘Burlington’ and the model ‘Berretta’ for example. The DVLA were well aware of this problem and a few years ago, they held an ‘amnesty’ during which people with incorrectly registered cars could send their V5s to Swansea with a covering letter saying what they actually ought to have said. The DVLA would then issue a corrected V5 with no questions asked. PROVIDED, that is, there was some record of Swansea having been informed of the changes to the vehicle at the time it was converted. If the DVLA hadn’t been informed, they would send out a letter asking you to get it inspected by your DVLA Local Office to make sure it was what you had claimed. If you didn’t have credible evidence of the source of all the major components, they would still amend the V5, but would probably award a ‘Q’ plate. It’s possible this put a number of owners of incorrectly registered kits off contacting the DVLA.

The amnesty ended a couple of years ago now so owners who still have incorrectly registered kits are still in a difficult situation. The most likely problem they will (one day) encounter will probably be a refusal by an MoT station to test the vehicle. The computerisation of the MoT stations is gradually being rolled-out across the country. At computerised stations, the first thing the tester does is enter the registration number of the car. The central computer then comes back with the vehicle’s details (such as make, model, age, emissions requirements and so on). Obviously, a vehicle not correctly described will be flagged up as the donor vehicle and this is likely to create problems or maybe even a refusal to test. Although we are not sure of the precise implications as yet, the other effect of having an incorrectly registered kit is the negative effect on resale value caused by uncertainty over what the future holds. Either way, it is plain to see that things would be much better if everything was correctly described.

After a long period of lobbying by various sectors of the industry, the DVLA has now come up with a policy on re-registering existing kits without an SVA test. Unfortunately, this will not solve everybody’s problem. But some readers might be able to take advantage of the new policy.

The DVLA have agreed that IF there is credible evidence that the car has been on the road for AT LEAST 10 years AND there is at least ONE old MOT certificate describing the vehicle as what it currently is rather than the donor vehicle, the DVLA will amend the registration document to correctly describe the vehicle without an SVA test having been carried out.

Unfortunately, there will still be a fair few vehicles less than 10 years old that won’t be able to take advantage of this scheme. Our advice to such owners would be to hang on to the car (take it off the road and complete a ‘SORN’ declaration if necessary) until it is over 10 years old. We shouldn’t have that long to wait because on July 1st 2008, all the kits that should have gone through the SVA scheme will, by then either have done so or be more than 10 years old.

One last suggestion would be to approach the DVLA themselves and ask for a copy of any relevant correspondence that they hold on your vehicle. The DVLA used to microfilm all correspondence relating to any car and they hold it for the car’s entire life. Sometimes, this can provide helpful clues as to whether or not the DVLA were informed when the car was built. In order to do this, you need to write to the DVLA giving your reasons for wanting a copy of the vehicle record. You have to be the registered keeper and you’ll need to have a good reason for asking AND you have to pay £5 or so but the information you get sometimes proves to be well worth it.

In ending these are found "somewhere" anticles and I stuck them in Word so I could refer back to them, Credit goes to the original auther NOT me.......whoever it was....... ...one of the kitcar sites would be correct