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Log Burner building tips


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So who's built a wood burner to heat their workshop? I'm thinking about putting one in at some point.

Anything you would do differently next time?

Any particular plans you found online which were a great help?

I've found a few different vague plans, but no real tech.

I can hopefully get some proper stove pipe through a work colleague's mate for scrap price :).

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Made mine with an old propane cylinder, I patterned the controls on my proper living room heater and its quite controllable.

As mine is fairly small a bed of solid fuel is handy to keep it going when I'm distracted and forget to throw sticks on it.

Use a hefty section for the first bit of the stack if you want it to last. I had an old co2 cylinder the same size as a pub bottle which I cut a 2 foot section from. The heat from that alone warms a big area. Luckily it was a nice fit to a standard flue pipe.

I do plan to make a heat exchanger to burn waste oil in small quantities.

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There have been a few write ups on here about workshop heaters.

I'm sure CwazyWabbit the ninja link finder, will be along very soon with directions to them.

My ears are burning :P

A build

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60373

Bits and pieces

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=63232

Design by Si

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=21195

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I just got an old rayburn off a farmers scrap heap. It runs 4 rads and heats the girl next doors shop too. I also rigged up a water cylinder on the loft so I can finally wash my hands in hot water! I burn pallets but dismantling them is labour intensive. I want to make something to mount on a digger/fork lift that will break one up.

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Here's a link to the build pics for my woodburner, might give you some ideas:

http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/DJDeejUK/slideshow/Wood%20Burner

Edit: Just had a look through the pictures again and realised there are some funny ones in there as well. Such as six foot flames shooting out the flue when I fed it some used engine oil...

Edited by Deej
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  • 2 weeks later...

Where are you planning to draw the cold air from? Is there an advantage to ducting it to draw air from outside?

1) If air is drawn from inside it gets replaced by cold air being drawn in from outside (around door gaps, etc).

2) Any gasses in the shop get drawn into the burner. That might be a good thing but could also lead to an explosion. (unlikely agreed).

3) If the chimney is not drawing for any reason and you arrange the ducting to drain any carbon monoxide gets dumped outside.

4) This final reason is tenuous in the extreme.......cold air is denser so you should get more heat. That might be negated by having to heat that cold air up more.

I think I would look at providing a door seal and an external air pick up.

Great looking device though. I need to build one!

Cliff

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2) Any gasses in the shop get drawn into the burner. That might be a good thing but could also lead to an explosion. (unlikely agreed).

Yep, spraying brake cleaner about when the burner or a propane heater is on leads to very odd headaches and strange dreams ..

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Yep, spraying brake cleaner about when the burner or a propane heater is on leads to very odd headaches and strange dreams ..

Yes - the vapours from some organohalogen solvents/refrigerants can be seriously dangerous/fatal if they contact hot metal.

"Phosgene", for example, was used as a gas during WW1

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That and the fact that if the burner is shoving gas up the chimney, and so to replace that is pulling cold air into the building (through door/window gaps, under the eves etc.).

If you draw your air in from outside, you're not circulating cold damp air around your workshop. If you make a cold air manifold, you can have air go in under the embers, and also above the heart of the fire to help burn off the gassified combustibles.

Speaking from experience (I've made a few small/medium ones, and one monster horizontal 47kg one), gas bottle burners loose any residual heat as soon as the fire goes out. The one I made for my camper is twin-walled (two sizes of bottle, nested) and the gap between the walls packed with sand as a thermal mass. Works a treat!

Use 2/3s of the top of the bottle for a baffle, and kink the chimney, you'll get loads of heat out of the hotplate and flue before the sides of the burner heat up. The more single-walled flue you have inside your shop the better, for heating, so angle the pipe across as much space as you can.

And lastly, make sure your door seals are good, carbon monoxide poisoning isn't as exiting as phosgene gassing, but still not much fun.

Hope that helps!

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  • 1 month later...

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