mudmagnet Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hi I have an auto 300tdi and it used to start without using any accelerator but now it needs me to press the pedal a few times for it to start Is this a sign of the lift pump packing up When it is started it runs fine no smoke and not down on power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you checked if your glow plug system is in working order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 How do i do that The glow plug light comes on and then goes out after 10 seconds or so but that's as far as my electrical knowledge goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 EDC? If so Earths Battery Glow Plugs MAFF Flywheel Sensor Timing In that order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I have the same problem: Disco 2, formerly started the instant of turning the key, now needs to turn over lots, and won't start without throttle. When it does eventually start, I get the three warning boings, but no lights on the dash. It makes no difference if the engine is hot or cold (ruling out glow plugs?). It seems to be getting worse. I thought it might have been dodgy fuel because it coincided with filling up the tank (it was empty enough to put the warning light on - stirred up tank sediment?), however, why would this give the three boings? The starter motor spins it over very well and fast (and a new battery a few months ago), so probably not battery earth/connections? What's MAFF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Bump. Slow to start first thing, and then with the engine barely warm, it took 6 attempts to get it going 15 mins later.... p.s. Sorry to hijack the OP's thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Mass Air Flow Sensor it's actually MAF as MAFF was the Min of Ag It's the box between the turbo and the air filter... Also check your fule pump - Notorious for being very girly. They don't like blocked filters. You need 4bar of fuel at the head to start. There's also a pressure regulator... but that usually causes poor running... Oil in the loom usually does other bad stuff on a D2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I would take a close look at the fuel pipes - it sounds like the fuel is leaking back to the tank because of air entering the top end of the system, needing the injection system to self-purge before the engine fires. I'd look particularly closely at the braided leak-off hoses between the injectors, which tend to perish and split underneath the braiding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Ok, Thanks, I'll try and look at that - but what's with the three boings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 No idea! I have a 300Tdi RRC, but it has an R380, so has no engine electronics. My wife's TDCI Defender makes three cyclic noises on shut down, a "chucka-chucka-chucka" noise, which is the EGR valve self-cleaning. Maybe your engine has a similar function? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8CAMEL Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Fpr can shut punp off completely only resetting of battery removed Mine woukd allow pump to work untul system pressurised then it would shut pump off Engine would then run until no fuel pressire and die. Engine woukd not start until battery disconnected and then reconnected Changed fpr and problem cured Just noticed you meant 300 tdi above is td5 isdue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 This is a dual engine topic Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8CAMEL Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 So i wasnt going mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I would take a close look at the fuel pipes - it sounds like the fuel is leaking back to the tank because of air entering the top end of the system, needing the injection system to self-purge before the engine fires. I'd look particularly closely at the braided leak-off hoses between the injectors, which tend to perish and split underneath the braiding. Sorry, Neil, the above was aimed at Mudmagnet. I'm not that familiar with TD5s, but know my way around Tdis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 Sorry, Neil, the above was aimed at Mudmagnet. I'm not that familiar with TD5s, but know my way around Tdis.I have changed the bleed off pipes/fuel filter/lift pump but not much difference although the bleed off pipes were split and leaking. I am going to have a look at the airflow meter next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 My apologies to the OP, MudMagnet; the issues seemed so similar, I thought I'd join the thread. I've heard elsewhere that the three boings after difficulty with starting may be the default response of the immobiliser. I'll still think about glow plugs at this stage - one tip was to turn the ignition on, wait, turn off, turn on again, and do that a couple of times - a significant improvement in starting would suggest the plugs (one or more) are on their way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 This morning it started reasonably easily from cold and then again when barely warm. 2 hrs later and it wouldn't start at all and I flattened the battery. This hit and miss affair, and starting from cold one time and not another is irritating and I now doubt the glow plugs as suspect. The turning of the ignition off and on did nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 The starter motor is now definitely shot. But why didn't the engine start when it did turn it over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I doubt it's the glow plugs. They're probably broken, but make little difference anyway. AN intermittent fault like this is probably the "spider", which is part of the harness from the alarm/immobiliser unit and is mounted on the heater matrix housing inside the dash. I don't have one on my 94 RRC - they appeared shortly after that - so I don't know much about them other than that they're temperamental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 If its a 300tdi auto with EDC then it probably is just the glow plugs. Unlike the mechanically governed VE pumps,the EDC ones have a very low start quantity,so behave like an indirect injection engine when cold.They also need a decent cranking speed,often helped by an extra earth strap from the battery neg direct to the engine. They will start,but only with decent glows and a high enough cranking rpm. EDC auto's don't have a smart spider,immobilisation is done between the EDC ecu and alarm ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 NeilF I'd put money on your injector seals leaking, classic symptom is hard starting. They're quite easy to do yourself or expect an hour or 2 labour to have them fitted, prices vary for the parts but it's only 5 washers and 5 o-rings so don't expect more than £20. If you're also experiencing rising engine oil levels (the diesel leaks past the injectors into the engine and down to the sump) then you must change the oil when you do the seals and it should be done sooner rather than later as the diesel will dilute the oil and acts as a degreaser, accelerating engine wear. Could also be fuel pressure regulator but these tend to leak when they fail and therefore are quite obvious to spot (drivers side of engine, rear of head, leaks diesel down the block and tends to drip off the centre of the gearbox bellhousing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Just to add, regarding starter motors... I had a Brit part starter motor on one of my 200tdi's and it ALWAYS from installing the starter motor took a couple of turns to start the engine, sometime more in the winter/cold weather. I did the glow plugs and all sorts of things not thinking it could be a starter issue, it wasn't until one day I came back to the truck after being away with work and the started was totally defunked, so I changed it to a genuine refurbed one I had been keeping as a spare and starting the truck for the first time with the "new" starter was quite shocking, the engine practically exploded into life without it seeming to even turn over once, and it has done exactly this, starting the engine ever since, must be something to do with the speed/ torque of the good quality motor creating the right ignition pressure nice and quick, not allowing it to leak past the piston/valve seals etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 If its a 300tdi auto with EDC then it probably is just the glow plugs. Unlike the mechanically governed VE pumps,the EDC ones have a very low start quantity,so behave like an indirect injection engine when cold.They also need a decent cranking speed,often helped by an extra earth strap from the battery neg direct to the engine. They will start,but only with decent glows and a high enough cranking rpm. EDC auto's don't have a smart spider,immobilisation is done between the EDC ecu and alarm ecu. I have just ordered some delphi/beru glow plugs to see if they make any difference Didn't want to order the cheapest ones as they seemed too cheap at £9 per set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilF Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Just to add, regarding starter motors... I had a Brit part starter motor on one of my 200tdi's and it ALWAYS from installing the starter motor took a couple of turns to start the engine, sometime more in the winter/cold weather. I did the glow plugs and all sorts of things not thinking it could be a starter issue, it wasn't until one day I came back to the truck after being away with work and the started was totally defunked, so I changed it to a genuine refurbed one I had been keeping as a spare and starting the truck for the first time with the "new" starter was quite shocking, the engine practically exploded into life without it seeming to even turn over once, and it has done exactly this, starting the engine ever since, must be something to do with the speed/ torque of the good quality motor creating the right ignition pressure nice and quick, not allowing it to leak past the piston/valve seals etc... As a final chapter for my part, the starter motor was replaced - the fact that it didn't turn over or if it did, it made a horrible sound was a bit of a give away. When I asked why it was turning over but not starting at the beginning of this saga, the garage man said that the starter motor was turning but it wasn't turning over the actual engine very well.......internal clutch? I dunno, the last starter motor I fiddled with was a Lucas with a bendix, about 40yrs ago........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 I have fitted a new set of glow plugs and after removing them 2 where dry and carbony and 2 were wet, I'm assuming that the wet ones were not working I also fitted another earth lead direct from the battery to the engine. Now the engine seems to start better and where before it needed glow plugs to start now I can just start it without needing them, another thing is the front 2 glow plugs were both loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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