lol Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 So unfortunately timing belt has broken on my 300tdi but was just wondering what The best route of timing everything back up is? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Once your in the timing case rotate the pully's one at a time until the timing marks like up, sometimes takes a bit of a jiggle of the cam shaft to get the correct valves closed to get the pistons up to the correct position. If you've broken a rocker then pull the rocker shaft out before you do it, then all the valves are shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 I would advise seeing where the crank is before you turn anything, in an ideal world it would be 180 degrees from tdc, that way you can turn the cam without fear of potentially doing more damage.... once the cam is roughly right then rotate the crank... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Rotate the crank until you can fit in the sprig into the timing slot in the flywheel, next set the fuel injection pump in the same way with the timing pin into the FIP pulley (both are explained in the works manual RAVE) the cam shaft is a little more complicated, turn it so that the timing mark on the pulley and it's corresponding mark moulded on the inside of the timing cover are alligned, if its correct then the mark on the FIP pulley should also align with the mark on the cam pulley and the new belt will slip on before you adjust the tension, and to do this correctly you will need a 12" torque wrench that has a dial indicator - not one that simply clicks at the right tension. When turning the camshaft check that you dont have any bent or damaged push rods or worse that the rocker shaft has been damaged, if it or they have been damaged then replace them before running the engine, in any case it would be a good thing to check the valve caps at the same time, inexpensive to replace and they dont seem to last too long, in any case once this has all been done check your valve clearances (0.2mm) while the engine is cold. If it were my engine I would take the opertunity to give it a full service, oil and filters etc. while its off the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Okay.... You "obviously" MUST remove the rocker shaft first and the push rods...... Then do the timing.... Then put in all new pushrods and replace any damaged rockers. The pushrods will be bent and rockers will be broken. It is not possible for the pushrods to not be bent.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lol Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Cheers for the replays chaps,you are indee all correct in the fact it bent all push rods and broke a rocker..as for the timing would I be correct in saying line the bottom up with the mark in (arrow) on the back case then the fuel pump can be pinned up but how do I know if the camshaft is 180 out? Sorry if this is a stuipid question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 ^^ Red90 has it , it will have bent some pushrods for sure , so remove rocker assy checking for bent rockers and pull the pushrods. You may need mole grips to pull the bent pushrods. Time the crank and cam before fitting the new p/r's and replacing the rocker assy . Once timed , check the valve clearance 0.2mm/ 0.008" cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 if the timing arrows are lined up on the cam it is correct - the cam does 1 rev for 2 crank revs cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lol Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Cheers Steve,so could I be 180 out on the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 It doesn't matter , as long as the pin goes in the flywheel it will be timed correctly , and it's 360deg - a full turn so no1 will be at tdc if the pin is in don't forget to loosen the 3 bolts on the IP hub to allow correct belt tensioning with the pins in and the cam lined up. I put the belt on the crank first - partially then cam then IP and then tensioner , and then push it all the way on progressively while holding the tensioner with the other hand cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lol Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Cheers for that Steve,has anyone got any pointers as the best way to fit new crankshaft sprocket and o ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 You also need to check the cam follower "bridges" as sometimes these will sacrifice rather than the pushrods HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 You also need to check the cam follower "bridges" as sometimes these will sacrifice rather than the pushrods HTSH Indeed - and if you fail to replace them when they've part-sacrificed they can let-go later and result in further annoyingly-messy tow-you-off-the-motorway-hard-shoulder valve/piston contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Carefully inspect the rocker shaft bolt hole threads for damage too. They are only in ally and can strip or weaken under the strain of the results of the belt breakage. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lol Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 What part are the bridges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 You also need to check the cam follower "bridges" as sometimes these will sacrifice rather than the pushrods HTSH On our 300 TDI rebuild I found three (IIRC) followers that were mashed. Plus one slightly out-of-true pushrod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 What part are the bridges? The brass bits that straddle the cam follower "wheels". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Get yourself an R380 reverse switch, makes the perfect locking pin for the flywheel. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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